Help Reading this Chronoscope Printout
 

This is from an 114060 I am looking at. Have never used a timeograph. Any help interpreting is appreciated. Thanks.:thumbsup:

The watch was put into service 4.5 years ago.:thumbsup:

Numbers are pretty good. Acceptable anyway.

Thanks Adam!:thumbsup:

You're welcome. Google understanding timegrapher results for more on the numbers :cheers:

Watched a few videos. Got a basic understanding. But nothing beats getting feedback from those with more knowledge and experience.

This is truly a great forum. Would not enjoy this passion nearly as much without it.:cheers::cheers::cheers:

I’m very new at reading such, but my limited assessment is that baby is running like a champ.

The X row is the expected overall performance. Amplitude (271) could be better but the lift angle may have been set wrong (unlikely) or the watch not fully wound at the time, but I'd be satisfied with those numbers.

Ask Padi. I'm sure he'd love to help interpret the results.

Lift angle for a 3130 cal is 52 degrees not 50 degrees like in the test. This should affect the correct amplitude reading somewhat. Numbers look good regardless.

Thanks guys!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

These readings are NOT of any real use.
 

There is a fundemental problem with your figures .....

The watch was measured using the Lift Angle of 50 degrees ... You have a 3130 movement which should be measured with a setting of 52 degrees.

Next the X and D (X = Average and D = Delta) are wrong because the 12H (12 Up) are not used on Rolex watches .. Rolex are measured in 5 Positions only ....
CH = Dial Up
CB = Dial Down
9H = 9 Up
6H = 6 Up
3H = 3Up
(12H = 12 Up NOT USED FOR ROLEX)

X = Average = Average of 5 Positions.
D = Delta = Difference between highest and lowest reading

From the figures you have the Amplitudes are looking good Almost 300 on the two Horizontal positions (CH & CB)
The Vertical positions are also good and reasonably close together
The Beat (Beat Error) is fine.

The rates are looking a little high but still OK and with those (wrong) readings it will be very simple for you to self regulate your watch to get to very good timekeeping by using the "Position overnight" method.

It would be great if you can get your watchmaker to take the readings again and use 52 degrees.
Repost those figures here and youll have the real results.
From those results you can see exactly how your watch is running and get a true answer to your original question.
These figures are just wrong.

Thanks Charles. If have asked it to be re-run at 52 degrees.:thumbsup:

Based on these data I would buy that watch without hesitation. Rates and amplitudes are very good. Amplitudes will even increase with the correct lift angle but should not be above 310 degrees.

If possible ask him to do ...

Full wind.
Wait 15 mins.
Then measure with ...
2 mins stabilisation between positions
2 mins measurement in each position.

Your watchmaker almost certainly has a Witschi chronoscope so setting for those parameters will be super simple.

If he just wants to do quick an easy then even those readings will be of more use than the ones you have now.

With those 5 position results posted here you will get a very full analysis of how your watch is doing.

Thanks Charles. Will request and update.:thumbsup:

Thanks!:thumbsup:

Correct reading.
 

Here is the correct reading at 52 degrees.

So, I am guessing this should run a little fast. Am I right?:thumbsup:

Looks like.

Well done. That was quick getting the new correct settings.

I’ll bet that the seller didn’t know what hit him when you asked for the test to be re-run correctly.

Anyway, Year you are correct that watch should technically run fast by about 2.2 seconds per day.

The amplitudes look very good.
Horizontal 2 (CH & CB) are 300+ a little which is good and “strong” and the vertical 3 are strong and close together which is a good sign.

The BE (Beat error) are fine

The rate as you can see is a tiny bit high with an X (average) that is also acceptable.

With those figures I would be beginning to get my credit card ready.
The watch could be regulated easily to be well within tolerances and a good Rolex accredited watchmaker should be able to do it very quickly.
An independent watchmaker would also be able to verify the movement is all Rolex and correct.

Next thing is to look at case and bracelet …… how are they looking ? Again. Pictures posted here can assist you - I’m sure you will get comments from others.

How old is the watch ?
Has it been opened, serviced? Etc.

So my basic thought so far is …….. When will you have your new acquisition?

Thanks Charles. I have learned a lot. Hope to see the watch shortly and will update the form with pics if I purchase.:thumbsup:

Help Reading this Chronoscope Printout
 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...165762db64.jpg

The watchmaker used the best timegrapher available on the market "but" he does not know that this caliber is regulated in 5 positions w/o 12H = 12U.

Therefore, the values are slightly different: X = 2.8 s/d and X = 284 degrees. These numbers are perfect IMO.

I disagree with Charles, the X = 0 s/d nerd, and would not get that movement regulated.

Instead, I would wear this watch first for a few weeks or months and measure, using Watch Tracker, how the timekeeping on your wrist will be, which is not necessarily +3 s/d.

Hope that helps you.

Let me clarify. Got an email when the watch came in because the seller knew I was interested in requiring this reference.

Asked for a timegrapher check. The watchmaker was not in but the seller had staff run it as a courtesy and they were not familiar with settings. Posted on this forum. Emailed back Charles' note that the tilt angle needed to be reset. Got it re-run.

Warranty card is dated 2018, and it still has a few months left on warranty.

Am going to look at the watch as soon as possible. But as the seller is an AD and I have purchased new and used Rolex from the seller, and they have an excellent reputation, I feel good about them.

I also feel good about the numbers. Had no clue about them before.

Am not financial about time keeping and would not get this watch regulated if it performs as per the test. But I did want to know how it was running.

This was a great learning experience.

Will post pics if I purchase.

Thanks to all.:thumbsup:

Can you elaborate? Should the machine have been set to run without 12h?

Thanks.:thumbsup:

Yes

Thanks.:thumbsup:

Ooo. Harsh. Saxo3. But I’ll accept your comment very happily. (It’s true!!!)

Now in answer to our OP member here mountainjogger …….

I do have to (reluctantly) agree that I am a Zero spd (Seconds Per Day) nerd. :clap:

With the results you have it will possibly (even probably) be fairly easy to self regulate your watch to seriously good timekeeping by resting your watch in the correct needed position at night.
You have the positions and effects on the Witschi printout.

I can recommend an iPhone app called WatchTracker to keep records and show you exactly how your watch gets on over a period of time. No other equipment is needed to use the app.

Also if you really want a Timegrapher you can buy relatively good ones on the internet. Weishi 1900 model is very reasonably priced and produces good accurate readings and is fun to use. 9Of course you can also get the beat of the lot …. A Witschi but the cost is a “bit” higher

Correct. No 12up as I said in post no 12 in this thread.

In general a Rolex watch on the wrists runs Around 1 - 2 seconds a day slower than in the stable measurement from the Witschi. The numbers a simply very good and I would be perfectly happy with this watch.