How to properly size a Jubilee bracelet tutorial.

[Mystro]

I wanted to pass along some tips and tricks on how to properly size your Rolex bracelet. We are working on a new Rolex Jubilee bracelet today, but the same principal supply to the oyster bracelet.
Work space:
The very first thing you need is a clean and well lighted work space. We are working with some very fine parts and if one goes flying, you want to be able to find it. I like to use a soft and spongy mouse pad or gun cleaning pad as it’s ideal in not scratching your watch. Anything that is soft and pliable. A small hand towel spread out will do.


Tools:

The proper screwdriver is paramount for not gouging or maring the bracelet link pins or link itself. There are two sizes of Rolex bracelet pins and both need their own properly fitted flat headed bit. The Jubilee has a slightly finer threaded pin and smaller head. It is the hardest to size without leaving behind carnage and heartache.
Over the years, I have experimented with a lot of different screwdrivers from eyeglass repair kit to general fine screwdrivers. Some will work BUT if it is a tapered bit, it will leave scratches inside the screw head, especially on the Jubilee link. That is not acceptable as we are trying to leave a pristine bracelet sizing as if it came from the factory. A Oyster bracelet pin is larger and a bit more flexible in the screwdriver. A Panerai screwdriver fits perfectly for an Oyster bracelet but will not fit a Jubilee bracelet. The best screwdriver for the Rolex owner I have used is from Horofix and it is a Rolex specific screwdriver and has both screwdriver bits for Oyster and smaller Jubilee. “Horofix Generic Rolex® 2100 Type Bracelet Adjusting Tool”. More on why it is superior as we work.
https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-ge...djusting-tool/

The next tool of the trade for the ocd watch owner is blue painters tape or masking tape. You might not need this when you become a pro at resizing your bracelet but it only takes one slip or stubborn screw to gouge the side of your finally polished bracelet link. Tape around the area that you are working on right next to the screw head. It also has some grip when handling.


Time for action:

The time has come for Horofix bit to be inserted squarely into the slot. (figure 5). You want to use your finger tips as a guide to make sure that bit is squarely, inserted level, and push down to the bottom of the screw head. With downward pressure as you turn counterclockwise to break the pin, free of its anti-seize. You may have to use the fatter part of the Horofix to get more torque. This is where damage can occur if the flat bit slides out of the link pin. It’s more important to keep that bit snuggly pushed to the bottom of the head than it is turning. This is where you gotta use a little finesse. Whatever you do, keep that flat bit squarely in the middle and bottom of the screw head. Don’t let it ever turn on an angle or without downward pressure.

What if the pin won’t budge with finger tip pressure and torque?: Hot boiling water is poured over that link pin to soften up the Loctite. Then proceeded again with the instructions above. Remember to have a thin pair of gloves as the link pin will be hot. Take your time, don’t get frustrated and maintain a proper technique in keeping that screwdriver bit flat and at the bottom of the screw head. (This is where tapered bit screwdrivers will not do the job without pin damage.)

Notice how sharp and clean my Jubilee link pins remained after removing them. They are pristine without any scratches on their top or inside the slot.


Reassemble:
Now you’ve taken out or added the proper amount of links to give your clasp an even spacing at the opposite side of the watch. Play around with one more link at the 6 o’clock side or one extra link at the 12 o’clock side. There is no right or wrong sizing as everyone’s wrist is different. I don’t like to reapply Loctite unless it’s absolutely necessary and I have not had that been the case with any Rolex bracelet I have owned. IF you do choose to use Loctite, it must be the purple color Loctite. Don’t use blue or any other/stronger bonding anti-seize. Rolex thread to link manufacturing is so good it won’t be necessary.

When screwing the pin in, make sure that screwdriver bit is squarely in the center of that pin so as you seat the pin, the screwdriver bit does not rub on the sides of the link hole. This simple step separates the pros from the amateurs as it leaves the link hole crisp and clean. Only tightened finger tip tight, using the green thinnest part of the screwdriver as not to over torque.
If you do this right, no one will be able to tell which pin you removed or which link you swapped out/in.







Bonus Mod:. I did a thread on this years ago and was very popular. If you don’t like your Easylink clasp scratching your bottom links, try this little mod.
I have used this trick for years and it holds up well in swimming and even on the Glidelock clasp. These small felt pads you can find at a discount store work great.
I don’t get a scratch or wear line on my bottom link where it touches the clasp.

[Dan Pierce]

And that's how it's done.
dP

[fskywalker]

Very nice Mystro !


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[watchmavan]

Outstanding


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[Michael1968]

Thanks for sharing

[watchmavan]

Went looking for some small felt pad stickers. Only able to find thick ones. Pointers? Link?


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[Mystro]

Originally Posted by watchmavan

Went looking for some small felt pad stickers. Only able to find thick ones. Pointers? Link?


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I think I got mine at “Dollar General” or Walmart. When I find the thin ones I buy a few packs because they are cheap. We use them for my kids pottery projects, etc…

Check at craft stores as they will have them. We call them “Green felt furniture pads”. It’s for placing statues or vases on fine wood tables.


These look like them but it’s hard to tell. I paid less like $2?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shepherd-...3?from=/search

[HiBoost]

Good write-up. Only thing I'd add is a soldering iron is your best friend for a really stubborn screw because you can laser focus the heat directly on the threaded end and break down the loctite without applying any significant heat elsewhere.

[thatswhatshesaid]

Another good tip for stubborn screws is to actually tighten the screw a quarter turn to break the loctite. No need for heat or boiling water on you watch.

It is easy to strip or damage a screw trying to unscrew it but applying downward pressure and turning it clockwise a touch allows you to safely move the screw and does the trick. Manufacturers generally leave a little play in the screw when assembling with loctite just for this purpose.

[Rolex1982]

Great share, thnx!!

[Gratters]

All this 'screwdriver and pin' talk - let alone glue and lighters. I've just bought the GMT-MASTER II 2024 and the booklet actually says no tools are required to adjust the strap. (Obviously for minor adjustments) there are three 'holes' or really just indentations inside the clasp - there is ONE youtube I can find that says grasp the clasp with the left hand and push the strap with your right finger!! It doesn't work the links just bend, it's absolutely doing my head in!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBVi60KByp8

I don't want to remove any links as that would be too much, it is so close to perfect but I want the extra 5mm that the three small indentations each give you. If anyone knows of another video that would help you are guaranteed a christmas card!

[brandrea]

Wow

Thank you for taking to the time to post this write up. That really takes a lot of thoughtful effort to organize and post

I know most of you will laugh, but I just can’t (ok maybe it’s laziness) adjust my own bracelets … I just don’t have the keen eyes or manual dexterity.

To those of you who do, my hats off to you. I can see it being a great way to geek out and bring an extra level of enjoyment to the hobby