The 1655 (my vintage Rolex story)

[MuchMoore]

Backstory:
My father was head of data processing for a regional bank based out of south Florida in the 60s and 70s. Mounting work pressure paired with significant growth and changes to that area prompted a substantial shift in priorities and lifestyle for my parents (just dating at the time). They moved further north and he adopted a more free/entrepreneurial mindset for the remainder of his life, resulting in far more flexibility and a wealth of fulfilling experiences. He passed a number of years ago and left behind several mysteries…

The lore:
I had heard about “the Rolex” on several occasions during my elementary years, but never actually laid eyes on the watch or any paperwork/evidence indicating it existed. As entrepreneurial pursuits can be financially challenging, I assumed that at some point the watch had been sold in a moment of need.

Honestly, it hadn’t crossed my mind in nearly 15 years until my mom was sorting through items in the valuables safe and pulled out a case containing a handful of watches. Most were in nice condition, but of the Luminox/Invicta variety and not terribly meaningful. He typically wore inexpensive, functional, or replicas as his day-to-day activities often damaged or destroyed watches. Two of watches stood out though, both with the Rolex crown and markings on the dial.

The watch:
I will confess that I was not knowledgable or even much of an enthusiast until this adventure, so neither passed my initial assessment as authentic. The “Submariner” felt cheap with a clear lack of quality and the Explorer II’s condition was simply confusing - the bracelet obviously did not match and the dial’s hour markers were no longer crisp white. I chalked these up indicators of another poor replica and took both watches to have them confirmed as fake by a jeweler at some point.

Months passed and they had slipped my mind yet again until I received a call from my mother - she had stumbled on a receipt for $114.00 from early 80s to replace the crystal on an “explorer”. This rather large sum (for the 80s) stuck me, but I could not recall the model of the second watch and scrambled to locate it once the call ended. Sure enough, the dial read “Explorer II” which immediately launched me into several hours of feverish research to determine whether or not this was a genuine article.

I quickly saw signs the watch might not only be real, but unique and sought-after. Characteristics which I had foolishly associated with “fake” actually turned out to be the strongest indicators of authenticity - the cream colored lume and Jubilee band. Research revealed what you all know, the lume gradually changes color over the years and forms a rich patina. The bracelet was real, but not “correct” for this reference - I suspect he chose the Jubilee over an Oyster as it would have had a dressier look in his mind.

A local jeweler subsequently authenticated the 1655 and generously offered $700-$1500 if I were interested in selling, so I will not be returning there, ever.

I think it’s only right that the watch be made as “correct” as possible, so I’m hunting for the proper bracelet (first priority), a box, and perhaps a booklet or calendar. I've kept my eye on eBay, but would love a more trustworthy source for a vintage band.

Ideally a ’73 7863/380 which I believe would have originally been included with the watch (3,34x mil SN)…OR

A ’82 78360/580 which could have been purchased when the crystal was replaced, in my hypothetical canon for the watch.

Or a ’93 78360/580 which could have been purchased at the 20-year mark of ownership, also in my hypothetical canon ha.

I suspect we also have some blanks to fill in when it comes to the story of vintage watches, so don’t judge too harshly.

Sorry that this was such a long read, but I wanted to document the story and figured this might be as good a place as any to share and learn more about Rolex and early 1655s.

[TuRo]

Welcome - Great story.

BTW Its a rarest and slightly most sought after MK1 STRAIGHT HAND. (no blob on second hand and mk1 dial is only one that the P of perpetual lines up with the L of explorer. The srl no. is correct for MK1.

Any 7836 or 78360 would look good imho from £750-£1500 and better than the 6251/62510h (ps i think yours is the US jubilee with a oval coffee bean shape link and you can easily get £400-500 for it btw, as people fit them to their 1675 gmt now 1675 jubilee gmt's back in fashion) .

Great stuff on the watch here, history, dials, bezel, straight hand etc :https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/t...74096.3563066/

[MuchMoore]

Thank you all for reading my ramblings!

Originally Posted by TuRo

Welcome - Great story.

BTW Its a rarest and slightly most sought after MK1 STRAIGHT HAND. (no blob on second hand and mk1 dial is only one that the P of perpetual lines up with the L of explorer. The srl no. is correct for MK1.

Any 7836 or 78360 would look good imho from £750-£1500 and better than the 6251/62510h (ps i think yours is the US jubilee with a oval coffee bean shape link and you can easily get £400-500 for it btw, as people fit them to their 1675 gmt now 1675 jubilee gmt's back in fashion) .

Excellent information, I have much reading and learning to do - my clasp is indeed stamped US so I will keep that in mind after I track down a 7836 or 78360!

[Dan S]

You have a great heirloom. A 7836 from 1973 would not be dated, IIRC, so you will be looking for an undated clasp. A 78360 would also be fine, but I wouldn't bother trying to find one from a specific year. Dealers just used what they had in stock, and they often varied by a year or two, plus or minus.

[MuchMoore]

Originally Posted by Dan S

You have a great heirloom. A 7836 from 1973 would not be dated, IIRC, so you will be looking for an undated clasp. A 78360 would also be fine, but I wouldn't bother trying to find one from a specific year. Dealers just used what they had in stock, and they often varied by a year or two, plus or minus.

Thank you - I always wondered how closely the years matched production dates and sale dates. Im going to broaden my search!

[Jackie Daytona]

Awesome story and awesome watch to go with it. Thanks for sharing. That was an enjoyable read

[jedione65]

That’s an awesome story. The best part was when the jeweler offered you $700-1500 to sell it. That was a quick chuckle.

I would not worry so much about the box etc but a proper bracelet may make the watch wear better even if not period correct.

[996marty]

Great story and watch. I’d replace the bracelet and leave it at that

[TimeLord2]

Lovely watch! Nice story too.

[subx]

great story and great watch !
LOVE to see honest 1655s, so much charm

[BNA/LION]

Nice!

[Rebel]

Wow.

[Wahlberg]

Time for a wrist pic! love the lume

[Steph-paul]

Very interesting story, tank you for sharing.

[BigBlue1]

Too funny at the offer. There is a sucker born everyday but it isn’t you. Crazy. But wow, a beautiful looking watch. Love the story. Absolutely a keeper. Thank for sharing your story.

[joli160]

Nice story, beautiful watch.

I’d keep the jubilee bracelet on it. It was common at the time that you could get any bracelet you wanted on it and it was your dad’s.
Perhaps have the bracelet restored

[dbhak22]

Wow, a great read! Thanks so much for sharing. We have a saying in the watch community: Every watch has a story. Your watch certainly has a good one!

I'm so glad you're here posting this when so many things could have gone wrong along the way...discarding the watch thinking it's a fake, having it serviced and all the original parts being replaced, selling to that jeweler for an insulting sum, etc...

Again, thanks for sharing and enjoy that beautiful watch!

[winst]

Disgusting,what that local jeweller tried offering you. If it wasn’t the Manager who made the offer I would go back and ask to speak to the Manager and ask if his store regularly tries to rip people off.

[rolexrmon]

thanks for sharing an amazing story.

[MuchMoore]

I appreciate the kind words and warm welcome to the forum! I will be sure to post a couple more photos shortly.

Originally Posted by Jackie Daytona

Awesome story and awesome watch to go with it. Thanks for sharing. That was an enjoyable read

Originally Posted by jedione65

That’s an awesome story. The best part was when the jeweler offered you $700-1500 to sell it. That was a quick chuckle.

I would not worry so much about the box etc but a proper bracelet may make the watch wear better even if not period correct.

From what I'm gathering after much reading here and a bit on reddit - vintage watch enthusiasts overall have more tolerance and allow additional latitude when it comes to whether a watch is "correct" when it comes to missing box/paperwork and slightly mismatched bracelet date codes?

It also seems that the same flexibility does not extend to watches which have been overhauled with aesthetic service parts as they tend to reduce or remove the piece's character?

Originally Posted by 996marty

Great story and watch. I’d replace the bracelet and leave it at that

Much appreciated - I am on the hunt almost daily and would love any recommendations you have for good sources!

Originally Posted by BigBlue1

Too funny at the offer. There is a sucker born everyday but it isn’t you. Crazy. But wow, a beautiful looking watch. Love the story. Absolutely a keeper. Thank for sharing your story.

Haha thank you!

Originally Posted by joli160

Nice story, beautiful watch.

I’d keep the jubilee bracelet on it. It was common at the time that you could get any bracelet you wanted on it and it was your dad’s.
Perhaps have the bracelet restored

I've seen a couple examples on eBay with jubilee bracelets which has put my mind at ease a little more - although I still feel like the watch looks more proper with the oyster though, we shall see.

An ignorant question...the bracelet has a significant amount of stretch, is that something that can be remedied through restoration, or is that only a cosmetic process?

Originally Posted by dbhak22

Wow, a great read! Thanks so much for sharing. We have a saying in the watch community: Every watch has a story. Your watch certainly has a good one!

I'm so glad you're here posting this when so many things could have gone wrong along the way...discarding the watch thinking it's a fake, having it serviced and all the original parts being replaced, selling to that jeweler for an insulting sum, etc...

Again, thanks for sharing and enjoy that beautiful watch!

You are more than welcome and thank you for reading/stopping in! I'm relieved to have discovered it and dodged all the pitfalls along the way - it's nice to have unravelled the mystery.

Originally Posted by winst

Disgusting,what that local jeweller tried offering you. If it wasn’t the Manager who made the offer I would go back and ask to speak to the Manager and ask if his store regularly tries to rip people off.

They are "the" established jeweler in my area with a decent sized inventory of used/vintage Rolex watches which means they are well aware of values. I suspect they fish for steals or that type of offer opens negotiations extraordinarily low to their benefit. I will be spreading the bad word about them to friends and colleagues.

[MuchMoore]

While I'm pestering you all...I noticed these Rolex Dealer Fact books on eBay and they seem to indicate the 9315 is a suitable bracelet for the 1655? That information goes against almost everything I've read online though - either 7836 or 78360.

[ryanryan]

MuchMoore, that's an awesome story. Thanks for sharing it.

BTW, are you sure your Submariner is a cheap replica and not a real one like your 1655?

[hwilson624]

What a great story. Thank you for sharing.

[RANCDdiver]

To echo the sentiments already expressed, what a great story and lovely watch. Get a different bracelet if that's your preference in how you'd like to wear it. But keep your Dad's one too and it's history will remain intact. As suggested, check out that Submariner too, because you never know and lightening can sometimes strike twice.

Knowing very little then, I took my father's old Submariner to the local watch guy 12 years ago. It hasn't worked since 1962 but he had the decency to admit it was out of his league. He didn't bid me on it but suggested I return it to Rolex. Thankfully, I baulked at the potential cost of that because as I know now, they'd have over-restored the life out of it.

[studioal]

Thanks for sharing, what a nice discovery and you're very fortunate your dad had great taste and a desire to keep it. Do you have plans to wear it? I hope you do, as it's such a neat watch.

In terms of the 9315 bracelet, yes, this could definitely work, but it wouldn't be the correct bracelet for this model as it has the diver's clasp and extension. The 9315 would have shipped with the Submariner of this era. Appearance wise it's nearly the same as the 7836 with a slightly different clasp. Whatever you do, make sure the bracelet you buy has the appropriate endlinks for this case. I believe 358 and 380 will fit.

One caveat with the folded link Oysters...most will be stretched out showing gaps between the bracelet links. This is kind of an unsightly thing so I would advise you find the tightest version you can. Here's how a stretched bracelet appears with the visible gaps between links: