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Old 10 July 2024, 09:46 AM   #1
njlam
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1960 Vintage Year

I am thinking about getting a birth year watch.

Who were the best watchmakers in 1960?

Not looking to spend a ton (so the Rolex Sub 5512 is out), but I would imagine there are some watchmakers that were great in 1960 that may not still be great today that may be worth looking at.

A quick search has Longines, Universal Geneve, JLC, Omega, Zenith, Heuer, Chronographe Suisse Cie and Lemania.

Any others? Of the makers I have listed which ones were the kings of the hill in 1960?
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Panerai GMT 233 SS - Zenith ChronoMaster 01.0240.410 SS - JLC Reverso Duo Q2714910 SS
Laine V38 SS - Grand Seiko SGBA407 SS - Baltic Aquascaphe SS - Garmin Approach S62
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Old 10 July 2024, 10:08 AM   #2
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The first Grand Seiko (the 3180) was released in 1960.
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Old 10 July 2024, 10:19 AM   #3
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So that'd be a double birth year choice...
Seiko & OP!

Omega didn't have the status with the Seamaster yet so for that reason they are out methinks...


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Old 10 July 2024, 10:38 AM   #4
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Chronograph Suisse is what I consider a generic brand.
No real history, and not very good quality.
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Old 10 July 2024, 10:50 AM   #5
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Longines, Universal Geneve, JLC, an Omega have stuff in every price range $200 to $15,000. So is there any price range you are looking for? Longines probably in the lowest range.

A little early for Zenith and Heuer, before they really hit their stride and made classics.
Would only choose a chronograph with these 2 brands.

Lemania is more of a movement maker than watch maker, so probably wouldn't be my first choice. Would only choose a chronograph with this brand.
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Old 10 July 2024, 10:54 AM   #6
njlam
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The Longines chrono with the 30CH reference seems to have the aesthetic that appeals to me…wondering where it stacks up vs others in 1960….trying to spend less than $5k…


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Rolex Day-Date 118208 YG/Datejust 116139 WG/GMT2 116710 BLNR SS
Patek Calatrava 5096 RG - Omega Speedmaster 3861 Sapphire SS - Cartier Tank Louis 1140 YG
Panerai GMT 233 SS - Zenith ChronoMaster 01.0240.410 SS - JLC Reverso Duo Q2714910 SS
Laine V38 SS - Grand Seiko SGBA407 SS - Baltic Aquascaphe SS - Garmin Approach S62
TAG Heuer Formula One - Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon/Mercury/Jupiter/Neptune/Lava
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Old 10 July 2024, 10:56 AM   #7
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Could get a Vacheron for $3k-6k.
Could get an AP or PP for $6k to 10k.
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Old 10 July 2024, 01:54 PM   #8
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Looks like what you really want is a Chronograph.
You could get an Omega Seamaster chrono with a 321 movement.
Or a JLC with a Valjoux 72.
And have change left over with either one.
1960 Speedmaster is going to be over budget.
Maybe a UG Tri Compax. Not sure off hand what movement they use.
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Old 10 July 2024, 02:38 PM   #9
njlam
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Good suggestions so far….as I refine in my mind what I am looking for, I think I want a brand that was prominent at the time, but may not be so today….my collection has a good representation of current brands…looking for a brand I may not have yet.

How do I research which watchmakers were cutting edge in the 60s?


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Rolex Day-Date 118208 YG/Datejust 116139 WG/GMT2 116710 BLNR SS
Patek Calatrava 5096 RG - Omega Speedmaster 3861 Sapphire SS - Cartier Tank Louis 1140 YG
Panerai GMT 233 SS - Zenith ChronoMaster 01.0240.410 SS - JLC Reverso Duo Q2714910 SS
Laine V38 SS - Grand Seiko SGBA407 SS - Baltic Aquascaphe SS - Garmin Approach S62
TAG Heuer Formula One - Swatch MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon/Mercury/Jupiter/Neptune/Lava
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Old 10 July 2024, 02:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njlam View Post
How do I research which watchmakers were cutting edge in the 60s?
You could check Chrono24 and filter out by year and function (chronograph). But as I was looking I noticed several that did not have the correct year. ie Hamilton Chron-matic didn't come out until 1969 and I found it in my 1960 search,

If you were looking for cutting edge chronographs, I would consider an automatic chronograph from 1969.

Try a chronograph with the El Primero used by Zenith or Movado.
Or the Caliber 11, used by Heuer, Hamilton, Brietling and Bulova.
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Old 10 July 2024, 02:42 PM   #11
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Breitling Navitimer.
Heuer Carerra.
Movado chronographs.
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