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6 March 2010, 04:04 AM | #1 |
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Loctite information needed
I have read recommendations for using Loctite 221 or 222 for screws on Rolex bracelets.
Locally, I can find Loctite 242 BLUE. Is 242 a suitable alternative? |
6 March 2010, 04:14 AM | #2 | |
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6 March 2010, 06:02 AM | #3 |
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I don't know if Lock-Tite would be my first solution. Go to any Sears Hardware, (or any other hardware store you prefer), and pick up a roll of plummers tape, (it's a white, thin, rubbery-type, non-adhesive tape). Wrap a small amount around the threads clockwise, while putting some light pressure as you go around, (you should be able to see the threads through the tape). Don't have to apply to much. I would say twice around at most. Cut off any over-hang and install the screw. If done properly you should feel the tension on the screw increase and form a good tight seal. Better than going straight to a chemical based liquid IMHO.
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6 March 2010, 06:08 AM | #4 |
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Loctite 242 (blue)is a medium strength thread locker. There is a good chance it would have to be heated to release.
Loctite 271 (red) is a high strength thread locker. It WOULD have to be heated to release. Loctite 221 and 222 (purple) are interchangeable and are both low strength and hard to find. They are, however, what you want. I got mine on Amazon.com and the shipping was more than the product. |
6 March 2010, 06:13 AM | #5 |
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We used loctite in the Air Force while working on fighter aircraft. Even the little screws had a drop of it to secure it. Not that big of a deal for a secure screw setting. Use a paperclip, or toothpick to apply a "tiny" amount to the thread's only. Remember the male, and female parts are almost perfectly opposite, so you don't need to dip the screw in it. Keep it off the shank, head, and tip. Insert the screw easily so the loctite doesn't cake the inside of the link where the flat shank touches. Seat the screw, and it will be fine. As for the proper grade to use, I don't know. We have a regular tube of it at the shop. No need for too much.
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6 March 2010, 07:17 AM | #6 |
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Thanks for your help everyone.
As mlee suggested, amazon.com has Loctite 222 in stock. I ordered a couple of bottles which should last a lifetime. |
6 March 2010, 03:08 PM | #7 |
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Just searched around the net for loctite 222. A lot of hits from everything from gunsmiths, RC hobbyists, bicycles, etc. Seems Harley Davidson sells this in the US. US link:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US Might be worth a phone call to the local dealer to see if they have it in stock. Last edited by chester1; 6 March 2010 at 03:11 PM.. Reason: missing info |
11 March 2010, 11:00 PM | #8 |
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Received Loctite 222 via amazon.com in 3 days after placing the order.
With shipping, I paid $10. I did not check the local Harley Davidson dealership. |
12 March 2010, 12:22 AM | #9 |
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You can probably find it at most automotive supply places. I am from Canada and not familiar with many of the US brands. Napa is a brand both sides of the border and they list the Purple Loctite at $5.49.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...200_0006383700 I bet any bigger auto supply store would have some. Robert |
12 March 2010, 11:29 AM | #10 |
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any auto parts store, or a Walmart.
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12 March 2010, 02:52 PM | #11 |
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So my watchmaker put some loctite on the screws on my new PAM. He said to simply put some heat on the screws / lugs if I wanted to remove them. Only a second or two.
Man, I am a bit freaked. I want to switch straps on my PAM...but I sure don't want to burn my black Alligator strap and/or strip my screws by not heating enough... Am I being paranoid? |
13 March 2010, 02:26 AM | #12 |
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Locally, it was easy to find medium strength Loctite 242.
I wanted Loctite 221 or 222 which is a low strength threadlocker recommended for parts smaller than .25 inch diameter. |
13 March 2010, 09:06 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Loctite is the brand and may not be carried at all places. The Napa Link was to the Permatex equivalent. Robert |
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22 March 2010, 02:42 AM | #14 |
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I'd never use loctite of any sort on tiny wristwatch screws (imho), it'd be a real bear to remove. After use on my vintage Triumph Bonneville, I learned, and was subsequently told not to ever use loctite red on anything on the bike. Requires heating above 400deg F to remove. I tossed all the red in the trash. I'd look for a different solution. The teflon tape mentioned above may be worth a try.
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17 August 2010, 03:40 AM | #15 |
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Some of us who fly radio-controlled helicopters use Loctite Green, sometimes called "wicking grade" because it can be applied after assembly. I use it all the time. It doesn't harden-up like red or blue, yet keeps screws from backing out. FWIW.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...-Green-290.htm
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13 March 2010, 08:55 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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11 February 2011, 04:05 PM | #17 |
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Thanks for the info guy's
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16 August 2011, 01:24 PM | #18 |
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Two things that work great for breaking Loctite's bond is steam and/or a soldering iron. I've used that method to break 242 on a Rolex bracelet in the past.
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6 April 2019, 10:07 PM | #19 |
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When using Loctite, be sure to apply it only to the threads rather than the entire pin. That will assure tightness but not be as difficult to remove. If one uses blue Loctite, 242, it may take heat to break it free when removing. It’s best to use purple Loctite 221 or 222 which keeps things tight but allows easier disassembly.
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11 April 2019, 01:29 AM | #20 |
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great thread. amazon has "Loctite 555339 222 Purple Low Strength Thread Locker Tube" for $8.
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2 September 2019, 09:15 AM | #21 |
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Great thread guys. I am in the middle of a resize on my SD43 as well.. most loctite turns white after it dries. I have used it extensively on my RC helis:)
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