Talking watches with FHB / Hodinkee

[Champagnepapi]

https://youtu.be/yj1DQzy6Fq4?si=J_F4Oz4fbB9qHar-

FHB giving his final thoughts before retiring from being AP CEO

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[ikincooper]

Just came on to share the above as no doubt this will be an interesting watch for many on here.

Merry Christmas to all, Niki


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[VogelPhoenix]

Very interesting to watch - should be required viewing for those left apoplectic by AP's collaborations.

[pav333hp]

Just watched it - yeah, agree this was a good interview and I do think that FHB did a lot for AP as a brand. Interesting to see him talk about the challenges he faced, hard decisions he had to make, admitting things weren't always perfect, and client focused approach. Excited to see what the next CEO brings to the brand.

I think a lot of people give him unfair criticism - it's not easy to run a global luxury company, and he certainly made a historic mark in AP's journey.

[s14roller]

Thought it was a great interview, he’ll be missed

[Vince_76]

A true visionary with how he meshed pop culture and high horology.

Love him or hate him… he’s done a lot to elevate the brand. Overall, I think he did a great job.

[edo]

Does anybody know why the collaborations with F1 Drivers, including (one of) the greatest ever, and motorsport events in general (Tour Auto, Gentleman's Driver) at the peak of Royal Oak Offshore popularity are almost never mentioned by the people in AP.

Influence is not something that can be precisely measured but as I know Rubens influenced a bunch of wealthy consumers into AP, was a splendid ambassador for AP, which maybe explains why he got 3 limited editions and I never heard anyone from AP speaking about him for years.

OK, I know Jay-Z and Arnold are still popular and relevant but speaking of brand ambassadors some of them are constantly missed in the interviews.

Another one I think AP did not take full potential is Serena Williams. And not the most marketable guy, but how many of you remembers they they had also the tennis GOAT Novak Djokovic as brand ambassador for a little less than a year before he moved to Seiko and now Hublot...

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by edo

Does anybody know why the collaborations with F1 Drivers, including (one of) the greatest ever, and motorsport events in general (Tour Auto, Gentleman's Driver) at the peak of Royal Oak Offshore popularity are almost never mentioned by the people in AP.

Influence is not something that can be precisely measured but as I know Rubens influenced a bunch of wealthy consumers into AP, was a splendid ambassador for AP, which maybe explains why he got 3 limited editions and I never heard anyone from AP speaking about him for years.

OK, I know Jay-Z and Arnold are still popular and relevant but speaking of brand ambassadors some of them are constantly missed in the interviews.

Another one I think AP did not take full potential is Serena Williams. And not the most marketable guy, but how many of you remembers they they had also the tennis GOAT Novak Djokovic as brand ambassador for a little less than a year before he moved to Seiko and now Hublot...

I think it’s because some of them have switched camps so mentioning them would be an indirect promotion for their rivals? Like if Djokovic was brought up, people will search up on Google and notice he is with Hublot, thus bringing potential customers attention to other brands. Secondly, I don’t think FHB is particularly interested in motorsport. It’s not something he had previous experience with unlike Golfing. What struck me with the TW interview is that he encountered a trick back in the 90s with the celebrity charity auction that raised the profile of AP, and therefore it’s something he hopes to replicate down the road. Hence the constant celebrity collab/association. I understand the reasoning as it worked before, I just don’t really agree with it.

[westoque]

Originally Posted by HMHM

I think it’s because some of them have switched camps so mentioning them would be an indirect promotion for their rivals? Like if Djokovic was brought up, people will search up on Google and notice he is with Hublot, thus bringing potential customers attention to other brands. Secondly, I don’t think FHB is particularly interested in motorsport. It’s not something he had previous experience with unlike Golfing. What struck me with the TW interview is that he encountered a trick back in the 90s with the celebrity charity auction that raised the profile of AP, and therefore it’s something he hopes to replicate down the road. Hence the constant celebrity collab/association. I understand the reasoning as it worked before, I just don’t really agree with it.

Motorsport is dominated by RM, and AP has a stake in RM so I would say AP has a part indirectly.


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[HMHM]

Originally Posted by westoque

Motorsport is dominated by RM, and AP has a stake in RM so I would say AP has a part indirectly.


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Yeah. But they are separate entities, and if I remember correctly, AP only holds between 10-20% of stakes in RM. If AP felt motorsports was the cash cow that is worth investing, they would have had AP sponsored teams and drivers.

I think it’s alright. Different companies have different target audience. There is no point in having many brands trying to woo customers in the same sector when there are many other fields out there.

[edo]

Originally Posted by HMHM

I think it’s because some of them have switched camps so mentioning them would be an indirect promotion for their rivals? Like if Djokovic was brought up, people will search up on Google and notice he is with Hublot, thus bringing potential customers attention to other brands. Secondly, I don’t think FHB is particularly interested in motorsport. It’s not something he had previous experience with unlike Golfing. What struck me with the TW interview is that he encountered a trick back in the 90s with the celebrity charity auction that raised the profile of AP, and therefore it’s something he hopes to replicate down the road. Hence the constant celebrity collab/association. I understand the reasoning as it worked before, I just don’t really agree with it.

Agree with you on that, and Novak did zero impact on AP. Trulli, Buemi are also shitty ambassadors, even I find Trulli ROO best 42mm AP ROO ever made. Trulli once signed the box of his limited edition with Patek on the wrist.

And that is because I mentioned Rubens and Michael who have still very popular limited editions and (minus size) best ROO Concept ever made... maybe you are right and motorsport involvement was not a FHB thing but was passed by the board and he doesn't want to give any perks to that.

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by edo

Agree with you on that, and Novak did zero impact on AP. Trulli, Buemi are also shitty ambassadors, even I find Trulli ROO best 42mm AP ROO ever made. Trulli once signed the box of his limited edition with Patek on the wrist.

And that is because I mentioned Rubens and Michael who have still very popular limited editions and (minus size) best ROO Concept ever made... maybe you are right and motorsport involvement was not a FHB thing but was passed by the board and he doesn't want to give any perks to that.

I remember speaking to an SA at one of the AP House. They asked me what my interests were and I mentioned motorsport. I even brought up the fact that Lando Norris was wearing a 38mm ROC. The SA kindly asked me if I had any interest in Golf. That’s when I kinda figure out that AP have no interest in Motorsport

We will just have to see what Ilaria Resta has in her mind and her vision for AP. Honestly I’m excited after the interview on YT.

[TNG]

Nice interview! They allmost stopped the 15202 in 2011, imagine that.....

[westoque]

Great interview! Thanks for posting. My respect for FHB went up even more. It clarifies the direction that AP took and decisions they made with endorsements and celebrities. Starting with Arnold as the first for making the brand known, then with Jay-Z as part of attaching AP with a culture, hip-hop. It could've made a lot more sense for the last send off to be with Jay-Z than Travis.

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[only1swami]

Sales Director to 30 year generational run ending as CEO…great final interview. Looking forward to his book.

Solid power dap at the end between him and Ben

“Here’s to the crazy ones….”

onto the next chapter, FBH


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[newmansowndaytona]

Swami has spoken!

[Armis]

I agree that a book about his rise to leadership and lessons learned would be interesting to read. Until then, does anyone know what was his first major decision/action as CEO that raised APs profile? And how soon into his job was that action taken?
I’m wondering if it was the release of the Offshore.

[edo]

Originally Posted by Armis

I agree that a book about his rise to leadership and lessons learned would be interesting to read. Until then, does anyone know what was his first major decision/action as CEO that raised APs profile? And how soon into his job was that action taken?
I’m wondering if it was the release of the Offshore.

He became CEO of AP 10 years after the ROO was designed, and 9 years after it is produced, he didn't even join the company at the time Offshore was designed...

Turning point was that Arnold collab and using pop icons to put brand on map especially in America as director of AP NA what he exploited till the end of his career.

[Armis]

Originally Posted by edo

He became CEO of AP 10 years after the ROO was designed, and 9 years after it is produced, he didn't even join the company at the time Offshore was designed...

Turning point was that Arnold collab and using pop icons to put brand on map especially in America as director of AP NA what he exploited till the end of his career.

Thank you, edo.
I was way off on my timeline, but I thought there was more genius and daring beyond choice collaborations with big name stars, which is indeed what seems to be similar narratives whether speaking about the Cactus collab recently, or Marvel before. But the Code 11.59 was a true daring move, which seems to be starting to pay off now as he’s leaving. It wasn’t a home run from the start, but he has been adeptly steering it towards success (without use of collaborations!), which I expect to rapidly gain more momentum. Also, I was impressed by the design competition he sponsored recently. That was a daring and endearing move that no other big company would do.
Overall, a notable career.

[edo]

Originally Posted by Armis

Thank you, edo.
I was way off on my timeline, but I thought there was more genius and daring beyond choice collaborations with big name stars, which is indeed what seems to be similar narratives whether speaking about the Cactus collab recently, or Marvel before. But the Code 11.59 was a true daring move, which seems to be starting to pay off now as he’s leaving. It wasn’t a home run from the start, but he has been adeptly steering it towards success (without use of collaborations!), which I expect to rapidly gain more momentum. Also, I was impressed by the design competition he sponsored recently. That was a daring and endearing move that no other big company would do.
Overall, a notable career.

Yes, you need some balls to launch the Code .. and Offshore was also a very very slow starter... it took them 4 years to move 1000 pieces... quantity that goes monthly these years...

Design competition is just spending marketing budget with his buddy Austen, and I will stop here :}

[psm11]

Wish he would have let us know what is next for him (outside of his book)…


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[ButtButt]

That was an enjoyable and interesting watch, he's got charisma in spades and I think there's no denying he did well for AP.

[Audemars Enjoyer]

Really enjoyable watch, interested to see what he does next…


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[Ashj52]

Great interview, clearly very good at what he does. Will be interesting to see what he moves onto next.

[macrowatch]

Thanks for the share.

End of an era for sure. Respect!

New CEO CV almost reminds me of Chanel CEO for some reason.

[Rollieo]

It’s an interesting interview and kudos to FHB on what he’s been able to accomplish with AP from a business perspective.

Funny enough after seeing this interview it solidified how I feel about AP. They make beautiful watches, like jewelry. But they aren’t at the core focused on watchmaking. It’s more about marketing, fashion and sales. It really is a completely different perspective and interview when hearing from FHB and how he came up, vs Thierry Stern from Patek who started first with watchmaking.

[dauster]

Originally Posted by Rollieo

It’s an interesting interview and kudos to FHB on what he’s been able to accomplish with AP from a business perspective.

Funny enough after seeing this interview it solidified how I feel about AP. They make beautiful watches, like jewelry. But they aren’t at the core focused on watchmaking. It’s more about marketing, fashion and sales. It really is a completely different perspective and interview when hearing from FHB and how he came up, vs Thierry Stern from Patek who started first with watchmaking.

Agreed, honestly I was kinda underwhelmed with the interview. Yeah I get it you know Arnold and Jay-z and that’s cool but what about watchmaking etc. didn’t even discuss any concept watches or renaud et papi.
Totally agreed feels like they should no longer be part of the holy trinity if they so focused on alyx and Travis Scott collabs.
I love the Royal Oak but that they focused on the stupid marvel and code instead of other highlights idk feels like I should buy the 16202 a Nashville watch with the 50th anniversary for $75k and then be done. If I ever have to much money I’ll buy a black ceramic RO but other than that what else is there really


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[Rollieo]

Originally Posted by dauster

Agreed, honestly I was kinda underwhelmed with the interview. Yeah I get it you know Arnold and Jay-z and that’s cool but what about watchmaking etc. didn’t even discuss any concept watches or renaud et papi.
Totally agreed feels like they should no longer be part of the holy trinity if they so focused on alyx and Travis Scott collabs.
I love the Royal Oak but that they focused on the stupid marvel and code instead of other highlights idk feels like I should buy the 16202 a Nashville watch with the 50th anniversary for $75k and then be done. If I ever have to much money I’ll buy a black ceramic RO but other than that what else is there really


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Yea. It’ll be interesting to see where AP is in 20 years. To hear FHB talk about how no one wanted to retail or buy an AP 25 years ago, who knows what will happen in another 25.

I don’t think the new CEO will be any different. Sales and Marketing background. Zero experience in watches, came from perfume and hair care. It’s really quite disappointing. I wouldn’t be surprised if the AP fad passes like Panerai did and the watches are significantly discounted in the next 2 decades.

[gptwc]

Originally Posted by Rollieo

Yea. It’ll be interesting to see where AP is in 20 years. To hear FHB talk about how no one wanted to retail or buy an AP 25 years ago, who knows what will happen in another 25.

I don’t think the new CEO will be any different. Sales and Marketing background. Zero experience in watches, came from perfume and hair care. It’s really quite disappointing. I wouldn’t be surprised if the AP fad passes like Panerai did and the watches are significantly discounted in the next 2 decades.

Read some analysis that maybe they are trying to do more lady watches in the futures. That's why they need a woman CEO with zero watch background, aiming to be the Hermes Brand of watches

[Napaswar]

Originally Posted by dauster

Agreed, honestly I was kinda underwhelmed with the interview. Yeah I get it you know Arnold and Jay-z and that’s cool but what about watchmaking etc. didn’t even discuss any concept watches or renaud et papi.
Totally agreed feels like they should no longer be part of the holy trinity if they so focused on alyx and Travis Scott collabs.
I love the Royal Oak but that they focused on the stupid marvel and code instead of other highlights idk feels like I should buy the 16202 a Nashville watch with the 50th anniversary for $75k and then be done. If I ever have to much money I’ll buy a black ceramic RO but other than that what else is there really


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AP is undoubtedly one of a holy trinity if we still care about it. They still create high craftsmanship and complications from APRP approved by GPHG grand trophies that I would love to see from others 2 or a German friend.

Many haters just feel uncomfortable with collab projects that are less than 5% of their 50K capacity which 99% of customers can't even buy or see in a flesh.

In the interview, it seems FHB knows the market where to play, and how to win. Short-sight strategy? He started collab products with Arnold and Jay-Z decades ago and that has brought AP here. I'm not sure focusing on "rich heritage" and "traditional watch-making" can drive revenue to reach 2bn because customers would get 5270, or Historiques instead while there is plenty rooms for culture with haute horology approach