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Old 20 June 2024, 07:58 PM   #1
0xBA1EE7ED
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Join Date: Dec 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 15
18038/18238 Links and Other Questions

Good Morning!

It is looking like I might be picking up my first vintage soon and I have a few questions, I've done some searching but as always came away with more questions than answers.

As some back story, last year I was able to get my first Rolex, a 126710BLNR, new from an AD. I soon discovered that Rolexes have a higher nickel content than any other watch I have worn which has caused flare-ups of my nickel allergy. I tried to live with it through various means, but this has led me down the path of going PM which means vintage.

I am looking at 18038s and 18238s with the hopes of finding one at a reputable dealer with a similar value to my GMT so that I can trade it out directly; a 1987 or 1989 would be ideal. As this is my first vintage I am trying to go into this as prepared as possible.

Now, on to the questions.
First, I have a fairly large wrist and purchased an extra link for my GMT, most of the Day-Dates I have looked at seem to be sized quite small so I will need to purchase 1 if not 2 or 3 links to get the watch up to the correct size for me. I have seen links on eBay but haven't been able to find a dealer that has them listed, I want to be sure I am purchasing genuine parts; What would be the best way to ensure that if I end up buying on eBay or would going to a local AD be the best bet? Can ADs still get links for vintage watches?

Second, Bracelet stretch: How much is too much? Ultimately I'd love something factory tight and unworn but the value would be too high for a close trade with my watch. If I end up buying something thats a bit too stretched, is Rolliworks service the way to go?

Third, Dailying and Service: This would be my daily watch. I know that something in the late 80s/early 90s is still new enough to be dailyed without many issues; I would also most likely send it in for service after buying it unless it was explicitly stated that it had a recent service. Is there anything else I should be prepared for when dailying one of these or should I be prepared for a jaw dropping service cost?

And finally, avoiding fake parts/parts bin rebuilds/over-polished examples: I assume that all of the big dealers are going to be reputable and ensure everything is legitimate. But my knowledge of vintage rolexes isn't an ocean so much as a stream and when I am potentially in a shop looking at watches I won't have the experts here at hand. Is there anything I can look for directly to avoid buying something I shouldn't beyond buying the seller? Are there any dealers that are known to over-polish that I should avoid?

Thank you in advance for all answers and any links that will help! And of course, if anyone has any leads on watches/dealers where they think I might be able to do a direct trade or other words of wisdom, I am all ears!
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