![]() |
ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
![]() |
#1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Croatia
Posts: 219
|
Endlink with no holes in modern oyster case - how to remove?
Need help ASAP.
Wrong combination of good company, watches and alcohol. Somehow we managed to put a endlink and bracelet of 16710 GMT master to 16600 SeaDweller with no case holes. The result, the endlink doesn't have springbar holes to pull out a springbar. Is there any way we or a watchmaker can pull that thing out without destroying the endlink or watch case? ![]() Thank you, your help is much appreciated
__________________
My Instagram page |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
2024 ROLEX DATEJUST41 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Real Name: Eddie
Location: Australia
Watch: A few.
Posts: 37,231
|
I remember a thread where the wrong spring bar had been used and the fix was wax thread but this is different as there is no notch on the end link.
I can’t see an easy way out.
__________________
E |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Real Name: D'OH!
Location: Kentucky
Watch: Rolex-1 Tudor-3
Posts: 35,980
|
The end links are attached to the bracelet and one on your's is the wrong type end link. That would not only make the entire bracelets originality suspect but it will be very difficult to remove that end link.
Edit: The above is correct unless you have 2 different bracelets attached, one at each end, which appears might be the case. If so, the 16710 bracelet will have to be sacrificed to get it removed. dP
__________________
TRF Member# 1668 Bass Player in TRF "AFTER DARK" Bar & NightClub Band ![]() Commander-in-Chief of The Nylon Nation ![]() The Crown & Shield Club Honorary Member of P-Club |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
TRF Moderator & 2024 DATE-JUST41 Patron
Join Date: May 2007
Real Name: Larry
Location: Mojave Desert
Watch: GMT's
Posts: 43,345
|
It will take drilling a hole at the same spot that the groove is on a no-holes link.
If done well, the hole drilled can then be machined to be similar to a grooved end link; a single hole could suffice and be left there, or the hole could be weld-filled. The case should not be damaged if done carefully. In the meantime, the bracelet can be unscrewed at a removable link and re-attached to the other half to be fully functional until the work can be performed.
__________________
(Chill ... It's just a watch Forum.....) NAWCC Member |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Real Name: gus
Location: East Coast
Watch: APK & sometimes Y
Posts: 26,178
|
Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Long live lug holes. I own a solid endlink bracelet with no slots. They were not made for too long before slots were added. I suspect only a few years when solid endlinks and lugholes coexisted. Generally A,P,K and sometimes Y serial numbers. There has been a couple of times I came close to doing the same while tinkering.
__________________
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Real Name: D'OH!
Location: Kentucky
Watch: Rolex-1 Tudor-3
Posts: 35,980
|
Quote:
![]() dP
__________________
TRF Member# 1668 Bass Player in TRF "AFTER DARK" Bar & NightClub Band ![]() Commander-in-Chief of The Nylon Nation ![]() The Crown & Shield Club Honorary Member of P-Club |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
*Banners
Of The Month*
This space is provided to horological resources.