Vintage Datejust - Best Choice

[smarley]

Hi Everyone,

I haven’t posted in years, but I’m starting to think that I would like to add a vintage Datejust to my watch collection. I have a 14060m 2L Sub now, and I would really like to add a SS acrylic-lensed DJ (Oyster Band preferred) as well.

Can you guys tell me if a 16013 would be the best choice, or is there another model that I should consider as well?

Thank you for any help and insights.

Steffan

[TuRo]

Hi Steffan and welcome (back).
All the Datejusts are great. 16030 and 16013 are later versions (with fast date change) of the earlier 1601/1603 with the 1570 fitted to the 1680/1675/1655 of course. The two tone you mention is about the same price as all steel give or take.
Go on condition of case, dial and handset and rarely would I say this but also bracelet (as that is 20-25% value of watch).
Cheapest are the 1601/1603 from £3000....then the 5 digits about £600-£1000 more. Rare interesting dials make values leap like lovely boiler gauge found on 16030 etc.
Silver baton is cheapest classic followed by champagne and then black white blues greens etc. There are some nice tapestry, linen versions out there too that are not that much more expensive. My fave is a cappuccino or Crema/ blue boiler gauge dial ✓
Just to see all the variations.... just go to Chrono24 and do a 'Rolex Datejust 36' search and about 450 will come up to see what takes your eye :).
Ps have a look at the 1625/16263 etc Turnograph acrylic with thunderbird bezel from 80/90s too ...it's just a Datejust that's been to college !

[Dan S]

Just to add, 16014 is the 5-digit reference for a full-stainless version with fluted bezel, and 16000 is the reference for a smooth bezel example.

I have bought and sold half a dozen in the past few months, so I'm pretty aware of the US vintage DJ market from a firsthand perspective. In the US, $3500 is the entry point for a silver-dial example in mediocre condition (some spots/stains on dial, stretched bracelet, or damaged case), and I don't actually see much difference between 4-digit and 5-digit (maybe it's true in the UK). Some people prefer the modern features of the 5-digit (e.g. quickset date and newer movement), but others prefer the vintage style of the 4-digit pie-pan dial. Colored dials will be well over $4k and linen dials range in between depending on condition. (There is also the Buckley dial silliness.) Unless you want a colored dial, I think that $4k would be a solid budget if you are patient and are comfortable buying from other collectors (as opposed to dealers). Unfortunately, the last one that I am currently selling is currently OHPF.

Most often, vintage DJs come with jubilee bracelets, although I think that engine-turned and smooth bezel DJs look great on oysters. Personally, I am not a fan of fluted bezel DJs on oyster bracelets. If you wait for a DJ already mounted on a good oyster bracelet, it might require patience, or you may end up making compromises. In your place, I would just buy a good one however it comes, and then add an oyster bracelet separately if necessary. You can easily sell a spare bracelet.

[L.K Johnson]

A 1600 on an Oyster 7836 is a great look:

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by L.K Johnson

A 1600 on an Oyster 7836 is a great look

That is my favorite Datejust. I prefer a cream sunburst dial, though.

[rootbeer7]

Originally Posted by L.K Johnson

A 1600 on an Oyster 7836 is a great look:

This

[TuRo]

Yes I agree for smooth bezels like the 1600 a 7836/78360 looks better than the jubilee for some reason - think it’s because the head is more OP in appearance, and simpler oyster bracelet doesn’t over power it. And by that, perhaps flawed, logic…I think it’s why the busyish looking 6542/1675/16750/16760/16710 I prefer on a jubilee, to an oyster.