1803 18ct Day-Date purchase advice

[jameslastfan]

Hi

I mentioned this in another thread, the fact the bracelet is unusual. I am conscious the DD is strongly associated with the Presidential bracelet but it works with many in my opinion.

I am discussing a purchase of this watch and would welcome any thoughts. I am in the UK. Pp will be around £12-13k - too much?

Seller owned for 30 years. Late 1960s originally.

This one has a mesh bracelet which has a little stretch, which I imagine is not uncommon with design. The watch has some wear marks quite noticeable but I don’t dislike that at all.

I thought the upper lugs looked as if they had been polished but that might just be the bracelet having some extra room?

The Day display at 12 o’c - looks a little misaligned - the S of Saturday not quite in the window - is it me? Could it be adjusted?

I am getting a picture of the movement but don’t have it at the moment.

Would welcome any thoughts from the knowledgable members here please.

Thanks in advance.

[TimeLord2]

Probably needs a service to correct the date wheel issues but what a beautiful watch and a really uncommon but great looking Rolex bracelet. Pics are a bit small. Experts will be along shortly.

[jameslastfan]

Thanks Timelord2, yes I like it very much. Here are some bigger pictures.

If anyone can confirm the box looks original to 1966/1967 as well please?

[offrdmania]

The case is still quite fat and the bezel edges are still somewhat sharp. With that said, the bracelet has been polished much much more. I dont think the two started life together. Does not mean its a bad thing as scarce as these bracelets are. The asking price isnt bad and falls into the current trends.
The bracelet is currently set in the middle hole so there is room for adjustment. OP, hopefully you dont have big wrists because I believe these bracelets fit up to a 7" wrist only and links cannot be added. Nice old box too.
I would leave the dings and dents in the case, it adds character and shows its age. I would service it, size it and wear it.

[jameslastfan]

Originally Posted by offrdmania

The case is still quite fat and the bezel edges are still somewhat sharp. With that said, the bracelet has been polished much much more. I dont think the two started life together. Does not mean its a bad thing as scarce as these bracelets are. The asking price isnt bad and falls into the current trends.
The bracelet is currently set in the middle hole so there is room for adjustment. OP, hopefully you dont have big wrists because I believe these bracelets fit up to a 7" wrist only and links cannot be added. Nice old box too.
I would leave the dings and dents in the case, it adds character and shows its age. I would service it, size it and wear it.

Thanks v much, that’s a good shout on the bracelet size, I hadn’t thought of that…he says it is good for 8 inch wrist but will check.

He says the case and bracelet were together when he bought it, but that is interesting you think the bracelet is more polished than the case - in which case the two were more recent partners perhaps before he bought it. He has some papers I will have a look at too, might help!

These bracelets are nice, I like them a lot but there is little info out there ( or here) on them really.

And yes my view on the dings and dents too, like mine…character building 🙂

Thanks for your reply, appreciate it.

[offrdmania]

Originally Posted by jameslastfan

Thanks v much, that’s a good shout on the bracelet size, I hadn’t thought of that…he says it is good for 8 inch wrist but will check.

He says the case and bracelet were together when he bought it, but that is interesting you think the bracelet is more polished than the case - in which case the two were more recent partners perhaps before he bought it. He has some papers I will have a look at too, might help!

These bracelets are nice, I like them a lot but there is little info out there ( or here) on them really.

And yes my view on the dings and dents too, like mine…character building 🙂

Thanks for your reply, appreciate it.

Id be concerned that the bracelet fits up to an 8" wrist. If you have a small wrist, there is no way to size down that far since it is already sized halfway down in the clasp.

[jameslastfan]

Originally Posted by offrdmania

Id be concerned that the bracelet fits up to an 8" wrist. If you have a small wrist, there is no way to size down that far since it is already sized halfway down in the clasp.

Yes and thanks to your advice I will make sure to try this on - I have 7.5 inch wrist so might be touch and go if this fits.

He isn’t quick at sending the other pics I asked for and want to agree a price before I travel to see it.

Thanks again offrdmania.

[miamiclay]

Photos are awful, but still I’d think this case has seen a good bit of polishing. Looks like the 11/7 lugs are thinner than the 1/5, but the reverse is more common. Appears the tops of the lugs have been polished smooth, they would have had a brushed finish.

I agree the bracelet is a looker, but I’d be so much happier with it if even one catalog photo of it could be found. Otherwise, idk how to feel comfortable that anything between the case and clasp is Rolex issue. Iirc they did issue at least three other mesh patterns, so it may be 100% legit.

Day wheel off to the left is very common - A service fixes it.

[jameslastfan]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

Photos are awful, but still I’d think this case has seen a good bit of polishing. Looks like the 11/7 lugs are thinner than the 1/5, but the reverse is more common. Appears the tops of the lugs have been polished smooth, they would have had a brushed finish.

I agree the bracelet is a looker, but I’d be so much happier with it if even one catalog photo of it could be found. Otherwise, idk how to feel comfortable that anything between the case and clasp is Rolex issue. Iirc they did issue at least three other mesh patterns, so it may be 100% legit.

Day wheel off to the left is very common - A service fixes it.

Thanks - I asked to see if anyone had any general advice on the bracelet in an earlier thread before I began the purchase journey…possibly more detail there, but I TOTALLY agree I would have liked to have seen it in a catalog.

If it was legit, it is a well kept secret!

This is the thread

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=881886

[zapokee]

I agree on the bracelet comments - be absolutely sure that it fits before you buy, as you won't find extra links for that.

As a further thought, it's very niche with that bracelet. It might be difficult to resell if you ever decide to move on.

Personally I'd consider a more standard 1803 with a classic President bracelet. They're practically as liquid as cash, whereas your potential purchase isn't.

12 - 13 k GBP is also a bit high in my book. I'd be looking more at 10 - 12 USD for a nice 1803. Shop around a bit.

[miamiclay]

I saw your post in the bracelets thread (in the reference section), and I think you are correct there, and this bracelet is indeed likely a legitimate 8623. If you look at the first of your larger pictures above, you can see where some attempt was made to restore a brushed surface (tho not in the correct pattern) on the links below the case.

The black and white catalog photo exaggerates the brushed effect (as it does in others), and yours has simply had the brushed finish polished away.

Because it appears from the catalog photo that each link was brushed along its long axis before assembly, restoring *a* brushed surface would be simple, but I expect that restoring the original brushed finish pattern on that bracelet would be very difficult (if it is possible at all).

[jameslastfan]

Originally Posted by zapokee

I agree on the bracelet comments - be absolutely sure that it fits before you buy, as you won't find extra links for that.

As a further thought, it's very niche with that bracelet. It might be difficult to resell if you ever decide to move on.

Personally I'd consider a more standard 1803 with a classic President bracelet. They're practically as liquid as cash, whereas your potential purchase isn't.

12 - 13 k GBP is also a bit high in my book. I'd be looking more at 10 - 12 USD for a nice 1803. Shop around a bit.

All good advice and noted, thanks. I am trying to get confirmation on the sizing which is critical as no additional links will be an issue.

I think the unusual bracelet is driving their price aspiration of the seller - I am not rushing in any way - as it is still available but also incredibly slow answering questions/ getting additional pictures.

I may well go for a more traditional DD bracelet but it is a minefield of serviced/ frankenstein/ over polished etc.

I am enjoying the journey finding my first vintage to share my wrist with the modern!

Thanks for comment.

[jameslastfan]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

I saw your post in the bracelets thread (in the reference section), and I think you are correct there, and this bracelet is indeed likely a legitimate 8623. If you look at the first of your larger pictures above, you can see where some attempt was made to restore a brushed surface (tho not in the correct pattern) on the links below the case.

The black and white catalog photo exaggerates the brushed effect (as it does in others), and yours has simply had the brushed finish polished away.

Because it appears from the catalog photo that each link was brushed along its long axis before assembly, restoring *a* brushed surface would be simple, but I expect that restoring the original brushed finish pattern on that bracelet would be very difficult (if it is possible at all).

Ah thanks for confirming my thoughts - this really was the only reference I could find and that gave me a bit of confidence it was original - I’m glad you agree it is a likely match.

Now, for it to fit otherwise a more traditional and original DD I hope will turn up.

I enjoy the journey. Thank you for comments, appreciate it.