ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
22 February 2024, 04:09 AM | #1 |
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Interesting comment on new independents
https://open.spotify.com/episode/3a5...951261822a4096
At about 46 minutes mark on how some of the new independents are not as creative. As a disclaimer. I do like a lot of the new comers but at the same time, there is an oz of truth in the observation. |
23 February 2024, 03:50 AM | #2 |
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Didn't listen to the podcast but I don't disagree with lack of creativity. I like nicely finished watches, but it seems like the formula is add some guilloche and high polish some bridges. Need a distinguishing feature.
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23 February 2024, 04:04 AM | #3 |
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Launching a new brand is way less capital intensive than before, so this makes sense.
It's just any other consumer category. |
23 February 2024, 04:31 AM | #4 |
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Seems like a natural consequence of an already crowded field with so much already having been done.
It's increasingly harder to bring new and interesting designs and craftsmanship. |
23 February 2024, 05:23 AM | #5 |
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The only independents/microbrands that really catch my eye lately are JN Shapiro (out of LA, eye-wateringly beautiful & expensive) & RGM (out of PA, some pieces appeal to me, some in-house movements/modifications, watches are for the most part too large).
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23 February 2024, 03:50 PM | #6 |
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I like to folow the guest of the podcast, Oliver R Muller. He shares a lot of insights in the Swiss watch industry. Pity though he mostly publishes his articles in French.
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23 February 2024, 09:30 PM | #7 |
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Just look at all the hyped up new indies in the past several years, I’m failing to think of one that does anything innovative. Even on the design side, with the exception of Akrivia I cannot think of another interesting or fresh design. And even Akrivia has taken a back seat to RR now.
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23 February 2024, 11:22 PM | #8 |
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We basically have a few dozen indies trying to recreate Breguet or Dufour. Many of these even though they make beautiful watches probably won’t survive. There needs to be a vision behind the brand and a unique design language imho.
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24 February 2024, 05:36 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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24 February 2024, 06:33 AM | #10 | |
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Did not listen to the... so am assuming we're talking about TRUE independent watchMAKERS and not just guys slapping together various 'custom' bits into a case. Nothing wrong with custom bits into a case, and for a few hundred bucks there are some fun pieces.
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__________________ Love timepieces and want to become a Watchmaker? Rolex has a sensational school. www.RolexWatchmakingTrainingCenter.com/ Sent from my Etch A Sketch using String Theory. |
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24 February 2024, 07:18 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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24 February 2024, 05:51 PM | #12 |
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It always comes back to “get what you like.” Way too hard to predict which brands will be the next “thing” whatever that means.
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25 February 2024, 03:55 PM | #13 |
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I'm surprised the crowd of self proclaimed all watch lover and watch loving independent collectors are not bashing the OP for this thread, while i get bashed every time i make a comment on how independents are not innovating at all despite what they all claim (and what a number of cult followers on TRF claim too) and that they do nothing for me, and that buyers should be extremely careful if they care about long term ownership including service, value etc.
Anyway, agree with you OP, many "independents" thought they could make big bucks by capitalizing on the last 3 years' state of affairs - I wish them all the best, but i have a feeling that I will be the last one laughing when they all join back under well established watchmaking companies. |
26 February 2024, 01:16 AM | #14 |
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May i humbly add MB&F please. H. Moser's double hairsprings is a nice innovation too imho
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__________________ Love timepieces and want to become a Watchmaker? Rolex has a sensational school. www.RolexWatchmakingTrainingCenter.com/ Sent from my Etch A Sketch using String Theory. |
26 February 2024, 02:07 AM | #15 | |
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If you watch the LVMH watch award interview with Jean Arnault. It explains why Raul Pages was selected. I was disappointed that Simon Brette did not get picked but I can see why. The shock resistant dente escapement is more of a technical innovation. And Raul Pages is being recognized for it on top of a beautiful piece. |
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27 February 2024, 12:14 AM | #17 | |
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Are there some specific non-innovative independent brands who have popped up in the last 3 years "to cash in" that you'd like to mention? Or does this apply to all independents? |
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27 February 2024, 06:55 AM | #18 |
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Yeah that damned Felipe Pikullik and his cash-grabbing efforts to teach handcrafted watchmaking skills to a new generation of artisans. So money-hungry.
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