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Old 26 February 2024, 02:30 PM   #1
punch2007
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Icon9 Two watch dress/complication collection

Hey folks,

Super long time lurker and I'm finally ready to buy a Patek. Here's some things I'm keeping in mind:
  • Gold watches (Ideally J, maybe R) on leather straps. No Aquanaut or Nautilus. So a Calatrava or Complication. I don't mind wearing dress watches casually.
  • 7" wrist. I don't mind small watches but I also want it to wear proportionally.
  • My aesthetic is classic, understated purist. I'm a one navy suit, one pair of black oxfords, and one white dress shirt with a few ties- kind of guy. So anything in the 96 lineage interests me (3796, 3923, 5196, does 5227 count?).
  • I want two: one for each son to be gifted on his wedding day in 20+ years and stay in the family. I want to be able to wear both now so a combo like 5196+5227 would be too similar.
  • Other references I've liked at some point: 3919 (love that it looks like a grandfather clock), 5146, 5134 (the Bregeut numerals are very cool)

I need to just take the plunge and buy one, with the other one to follow in a few years. But every time I think I've found the watch I discover a new reference number. It was the 3919J for close to 12 years. Then I discovered the 5196J. And the 3796. But I found a great deal on a 5146J and if you're going to do Patek right, might as well get a complication watch? See my problem?
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Old 28 February 2024, 11:50 AM   #2
laurawoods
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Great tips
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Old 29 February 2024, 02:36 AM   #3
bp1000
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I'd go with two references I think distill the design language and intention of the Calatrava line in two distinctly different ways and they are the 5196r which is just a beautiful, modern sized simple but highly elegant time only watch (arguably all you'll ever need) and the equally interesting but very different officer's Calatrava the 5053J.

Two different metals, two different styles. Hopefully one son has more flare and would be nicely suited to the 5053 because I think its fantastic. There is also a smaller version I think the 3960.
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Old 29 February 2024, 02:43 AM   #4
bp1000
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Maybe I misread your post. I thought you wanted two calatravas, but different. If you wanted 1 Calatrava and 1 comp... not sure I'd go for the AC, but I do like the world time, e.g. the 5230r
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Old 29 February 2024, 04:21 AM   #5
Pw92676
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Nice post, I like your logic here. I’d vote 5146j and 5170j.
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Old 29 February 2024, 05:01 AM   #6
MangoTree1
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Sorry to ask, but what do you mean with "does the 5227 count"?!

For me the 5227 is the incarnation of a purists dress watch!
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Old 29 February 2024, 05:17 AM   #7
Mariushka
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I would also check out the 5227s. The case makes the watch even more exciting and is a little more modern looking than others (which doesn't mean other are not good).
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Old 29 February 2024, 06:15 AM   #8
z train
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sounds like a 3940j would suit your needs. it's a classic.
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