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Old 15 October 2024, 10:16 PM   #31
Yeezy_008
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Slightly off topic, does anyone know whether a 2019 two tone Skydweller 326933 would have the AR coating as standard or not?
Thanks
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Old 15 October 2024, 10:20 PM   #32
kiwi71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma089 View Post
I believe people get too caught up with preserving "originality" on modern watches, because dealers are focusing (rightfully so) on it in vintage watches. You have to remember: these are mass produced tools. A 16610LV while a nice piece is by no means a rare collectible, there are plenty around.

If you are using your watch, I'd just keep them up-to-date wherever possible. Switching crystals is not like switching dials or overpolishing a case. It's switching an inferior part with a more modern one. There's a clear benefit to AR (on the underside of the crystal, where it can't get scratched): you can see the time better in various circumstances. I'd also have them modify the movement with a non magnetic balance if there was an option for that, because it would improve the performance of the watch, without altering its overall appearance.

If you really want to preserve originality for resale purposes, I'd buy a NOS non-AR crystal if they won't return your original one. Put it away and exchange it for the AR one or give it to the new owner, once you sell it. That way you can preserve originality, without sacrificing functionality.

Don't be fooled: vintage dealers are building "original" watches as well. If a crystal was changed, they simply replace it with a period correct one and raise the price accordingly.

Good points, I think this is the most difficult point with a “neo-vintage” Rolex because the watch is still currently all original. However, as I’ve already decided to use RSC and not an independent, and as I mentioned the replacement of the hands is mandatory, the decision has already been made not to go down the path of keeping everything original at all costs.

I was initially leaning towards keeping the original crystal simply because there wasn’t anything noticeably wrong with it (to my eye) and they weren’t requiring me to change it, so why spend the extra money. But since many have made compelling arguments that it may actually increase my enjoyment of the watch, I have decided to do it. And to clarify, the only options I had were to leave the original or upgrade to the new anti-reflective crystal. I did not have an option to change it to a NOS crystal with the AF only under the cyclops.
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Old Yesterday, 02:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigma089 View Post
I believe people get too caught up with preserving "originality" on modern watches, because dealers are focusing (rightfully so) on it in vintage watches. You have to remember: these are mass produced tools. A 16610LV while a nice piece is by no means a rare collectible, there are plenty around.

If you are using your watch, I'd just keep them up-to-date wherever possible. Switching crystals is not like switching dials or overpolishing a case. It's switching an inferior part with a more modern one. There's a clear benefit to AR (on the underside of the crystal, where it can't get scratched): you can see the time better in various circumstances. I'd also have them modify the movement with a non magnetic balance if there was an option for that, because it would improve the performance of the watch, without altering its overall appearance.

If you really want to preserve originality for resale purposes, I'd buy a NOS non-AR crystal if they won't return your original one. Put it away and exchange it for the AR one or give it to the new owner, once you sell it. That way you can preserve originality, without sacrificing functionality.

Don't be fooled: vintage dealers are building "original" watches as well. If a crystal was changed, they simply replace it with a period correct one and raise the price accordingly.
Even so, a crystal is an expendable part. They chip, crack etc. and you just replace them when the time comes, like gaskets. Unlike a dial, original case with serial number, tritium hands etc, the crystal whether original or replaced makes nearly zero impact on vintage or neovintage - most the value is in the dial.

There are probably only 1000 examples in existence or maybe less of my 14270 and I doubt the AR crystal would impact its resale at all - someone could swap it to a non AR for $300 if they wanted.

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Beautiful
Thank you!
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Old Yesterday, 09:19 AM   #34
kiwi71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logo View Post
Even so, a crystal is an expendable part. They chip, crack etc. and you just replace them when the time comes, like gaskets. Unlike a dial, original case with serial number, tritium hands etc, the crystal whether original or replaced makes nearly zero impact on vintage or neovintage - most the value is in the dial.

There are probably only 1000 examples in existence or maybe less of my 14270 and I doubt the AR crystal would impact its resale at all - someone could swap it to a non AR for $300 if they wanted.



Thank you!

I assume the crown would also be considered an expendable part in the same way a crystal is? I imagine the threads can only last so long regardless of how gentle the owner may be. That was the only part that was a “mandatory” replacement on both my watches.
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Old Yesterday, 11:11 AM   #35
KermitGang
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Particularly the crown tube. Replace as needed to protect the integrity of the watch.
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Old Yesterday, 01:45 PM   #36
cascadez71
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For common professional models: Did the AR coating start on the 12 series subs? I recall reading early 12 series GMT did not have it, but now they do?
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Old Yesterday, 03:11 PM   #37
928ktgold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cascadez71 View Post
For common professional models: Did the AR coating start on the 12 series subs? I recall reading early 12 series GMT did not have it, but now they do?
Correct about the 41 sub and newer GMTs
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Old Yesterday, 11:46 PM   #38
Eric88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PepsiBezel View Post
The LN bezel insert is a great option! Though I do think anodized aluminum looks great with colored bezels, the Cerachrom has an edge for black.

Attachment 1462756

If and when you try to swap your bezel, use a hard plastic pry bar like this one from ifixit (easy to find on Amazon). Don’t mess around with a taped metal knife or such — not worth the risk of scratching lugs.

Attachment 1462757
I've always used an old credit card for bezel removal. Works great and no scratches.

Answering the original thread's question, I am a big fan of the AR crystals, since getting my 126610LN a few years ago. It does improve the legibility of the dial and looks really nice to my eyes.
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