Clasp on 16610 with SEL

[cascadez71]

So I have a Tag Formula 1 quartz with a similar z link clasp and easylink extension as these pre-maxi case subs. The clasp is tinny but generally reliable except for the outside safety clasp. Occasionally I have to squeeze it with a pair of pliers to ensure latching (it loosens over time).

1. Does that happen with the 2000s Sub clasps? Image below is the "safety clasp" I am referring to. I am sure my terminology is off.

2. What is the length of a 16610 clasp? I have a small, but flat wrist and the clasp on my 126610 just fits across the bottom of wrist. I have all the removable links out (3 and 4 remaining). I know the 16610 must maintain 4 links on each side, but I figure the shorter clasp length makes it wearable for me.

3. I presume the pin holes are about 1 or 2 mm apart for adjustments with a pin tool? What are the minimum mm extension for the easy link (divers extension)?

Thanks. My 3235 126610 is going in for infamous warranty service. Maybe looking to find a way to trade for a 3135 16610LV down the line.

[0nly5iv3Digits]

I can only speak to point 1:

Yes they can come loose. They are "pressure-fit" rivets. 1.0mm bore; 18mm in length. I recently had one of the rivet caps come off of my 93250 on my 16610LV. Luckily, I caught it before the watch fell off my wrist...

Replaced easily and cheaply. Toughest bit was finding the specs for a replacement.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by 0nly5iv3Digits

I can only speak to point 1:

Yes they can come loose. They are "pressure-fit" rivets. 1.0mm bore; 18mm in length. I recently had one of the rivet caps come off of my 93250 on my 16610LV. Luckily, I caught it before the watch fell off my wrist...

Replaced easily and cheaply. Toughest bit was finding the specs for a replacement.

I don't think the OP is asking about the rivets, but about the little indentations that keep the flip-lock closed.

[cascadez71]

Originally Posted by Dan S

I don't think the OP is asking about the rivets, but about the little indentations that keep the flip-lock closed.

Yes, not so much about the rivets - but rather just the "prongs" of the safety clasp/flip-lock, do they loosen/widen over time and need to be "squeezed" back together? The 12 series I am wearing right now has a flip-lock that is made of substantially thicker steel than the tinny little flip-lock on my tag.

I've never read anybody mentioning they have had any issues with rolex flip-lock in this regard with other brand bracelets. It is an annoyance with my tag bracelet.

[Dan S]

I'm not going to say it's impossible to have a loose flip-lock, but it's not something I've run into often enough to worry about it.

[502 to Right]

I had the flip-lock replaced on my SEL 16610 Submariner Date. My Rolex AD watchmaker said it was not securing properly so he ordered the part necessary to replace it. He replaced just the flip lock--not the entire clasp. So yes, this can be an issue but it's easily fixed. I think the cost was something like $50. This was last year.

[cascadez71]

Thank you all.

[Jonny8]

When I got my 16610lv the flip lock was looser than I liked. A little squeeze with my thumb and finger and it is perfect.