Preventing stretch on a Presidential bracelet (8385) when the fit isn't perfect

[TomWambsgans]

I recently acquired a 18238 with a bracelet in great condition, but my wrist is between sizes on the bracelet. With one link added, it works but fits a bit loosely. With all links removed, it's sufficiently tight that it's pretty much unwearable. So one link it is.

I read in previous threads that wearing the bracelet loosely contributes to bracelet stretch. Is there anything I can do to minimize this effect? Frequent washing of the bracelet?

Any advice much appreciated, as usual. (I don't have this issue on my 14060M, which fits like a dream.)

[KY..]

My 2 cents…
There is a 1.25 link available for the 118238 president bracelet.
Maybe you can find one and get it fitted to your bracelet by a jeweler.
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[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by KY..

My 2 cents…
There is a 1.25 link available for the 118238 president bracelet.
Maybe you can find one and get it fitted to your bracelet by a jeweler.
Attachment 1465673

Thanks.

So, if I buy that does it replace one of the sections on my bracelet? I don't know anything about bracelets. Are only certain sections replaceable, or can any section be replaced?


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[KY..]

I have no comment on keeping the bracelet washed because I don’t wear day-dates daily or enough for them to get dirty or have stretch concerns.

Is it true about what you originally said, that you either have all the removable screw links out of your bracelet or you have one link added?
If this is true then adding a 1.25 (125%) link will obviously make the bracelet larger than having one regular link added.
If you misspoke then finding a 1.25 link to fit where two regular screwed links are may work for you.

The caveat is the 1.25 link is for the 118238 president bracelet which has smaller screws/holes (about 1.4mm vs 1.55mm screws).
So the 1.25 link would have to be modified by opening the hole enough so the normal 18238 screw can fit through it.
Which is why I said you’d want a jeweler or watch maker to help with modifying the link if you can find one.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by KY..

I have no comment on keeping the bracelet washed because I don’t wear day-dates daily or enough for them to get dirty or have stretch concerns.

Is it true about what you originally said, that you either have all the removable screw links out of your bracelet or you have one link added?
If this is true then adding a 1.25 (125%) link will obviously make the bracelet larger than having one regular link added.
If you misspoke then finding a 1.25 link to fit where two regular screwed links are may work for you.

The caveat is the 1.25 link is for the 118238 president bracelet which has smaller screws/holes (about 1.4mm vs 1.55mm screws).
So the 1.25 link would have to be modified by opening the hole enough so the normal 18238 screw can fit through it.
Which is why I said you’d want a jeweler or watch maker to help with modifying the link if you can find one.

It is true: My only options (from what my AD told me) are either bracelet plus no additional links, or bracelet plus one link. I figured a 1.25 link would not work--unless my understanding of links was off. Hence my question.

So I am pretty much stuck here, right? :)


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[KY..]

To me you have several options, some invasive for bracelet mods, some pricey, some not.
It’s your watch so you can do whatever you like to make it most comfortable for your wear.
Examples:
1. Wear as is.
2. Wear it on strap.
3. Remove a permanent link and add a 1.25 link.
4. Find an older president bracelet with micro adjustment clasp.
5. Have a regular sized screw link customized by a jeweler to be a half link size.
Totally up to you…

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by KY..

To me you have several options, some invasive for bracelet mods, some pricey, some not.
It’s your watch so you can do whatever you like to make it most comfortable for your wear.
Examples:
1. Wear as is.
2. Wear it on strap.
3. Remove a permanent link and add a 1.25 link.
4. Find an older president bracelet with micro adjustment clasp.
5. Have a regular sized screw link customized by a jeweler to be a half link size.
Totally up to you…

Thanks for the helpful options.

I am interested in 3 and 5. Both involve destructive changes that can't be undone, right? 3 seems like it might be a reversible operation.


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[KY..]

I would be in the 1, 2 or 5 camp.
I would not remove a permanently link unless I’m desperate and positive it could be put back down the road if I decide to let it go.
And 4 is expensive.
On the other hand, you are in the Bay Area and there are tons of jewelers around that should be able to do 5 if you really want it done.
Just don’t use one of your original links as there are plenty of spare links around you can buy and modify.
My 2 cents only…

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by KY..

I would be in the 1, 2 or 5 camp.
I would not remove a permanently link unless I’m desperate and positive it could be put back down the road if I decide to let it go.
And 4 is expensive.
On the other hand, you are in the Bay Area and there are tons of jewelers around that should be able to do 5 if you really want it done.
Just don’t use one of your original links as there are plenty of spare links around you can buy and modify.
My 2 cents only…

Interesting. So 5 is basically asking a jeweler to file down a link to make it smaller, right?


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[KY..]

Not necessarily…
How about you go talk to a few custom capable jewelers/watchmakers in town and find out what they are willing to do without hurting the integrity and functionality of your bracelet?
Asking doesn’t hurt anything.
Or you can just wear it as is if it’s too complicated.

[miamiclay]

As for preventing bracelet wear, an ultrasonic cleaner seems to be the best option, I just use a cheap $30 one from Amazon. It can be astounding what will come out of a bracelet.

If you wanted to try a buckle style clasp with micro adjustment, they are period correct for the early 18238s, through about 1994. You could find someone who would swap with you, but it might be tough to find a ‘late’ buckle one in excellent condition. If you consider that route, though, definitely try before you buy. The buckle bracelets have no removable links, so you don’t want to go to all that trouble, and still be in the position of removing a permanent link.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

As for preventing bracelet wear, an ultrasonic cleaner seems to be the best option, I just use a cheap $30 one from Amazon. It can be astounding what will come out of a bracelet.

If you wanted to try a buckle style clasp with micro adjustment, they are period correct for the early 18238s, through about 1994. You could find someone who would swap with you, but it might be tough to find a ‘late’ buckle one in excellent condition. If you consider that route, though, definitely try before you buy. The buckle bracelets have no removable links, so you don’t want to go to all that trouble, and still be in the position of removing a permanent link.

Thanks; will look into an ultrasonic cleaner.

I'd prefer to keep my bracelet if possible, given its condition.

I've reached out to some local jewelers here and I'll consult/get quotes from them. One of them seems very confident he can make a custom link from gold that is smaller than the standard link.


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[miamiclay]

Good to hear!

Also just fyi - Comfort always comes first, but for bracelet wear purposes, a little snug is better than a little loose …

[ronricks]

I wear my 18038’s and 18238’s ‘loose’ and have had no issues with stretch.

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

Good to hear!

Also just fyi - Comfort always comes first, but for bracelet wear purposes, a little snug is better than a little loose …

I know. I tried getting used to the too-tight bracelet config and it was bad news.

When you use your ultrasonic cleaner do you use cleaning solution, too? And do you throw the whole watch (incl the case) in?


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[Dan S]

I think you're just asking for trouble putting the whole watch into the cleaner. Some day the seals will fail, and you'll never know until after the fact. Just clean the bracelet.

[Dan S]

Seems like we have some generative AI contributions.

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by TomWambsgans

When you use your ultrasonic cleaner do you use cleaning solution, too? And do you throw the whole watch (incl the case) in?

I’ve tried both with and without cleaning solution and couldn’t tell any difference, so I don’t use it. YMMV, but if you do use it, I’d also do a pure-water rinse in the ultrasound afterward.

For both cleaning and rinsing, distilled water is probably ideal - I used it when I had easy access to it, but haven’t bothered recently. My very small sample seemed to show warming the water helped a bit, but idk if that’s certain.

Do NOT put the watch head in. Aside from inviting water intrusion, idk what the ultrasound could do to the movement, lubricants, lume plots, etc. Either remove the bracelet, or hold the head and just dip the bracelet.

[crowncollection]

I use soapy warm water


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[The Tempest]

Never knew stretch was an issue with these bracelets.

[zapokee]

Just don't worry about it. Wear and enjoy.

You can always get stretch fixed if that's how it turns out.

[502 to Right]

Bracelet "stretch" is primarily a function of grit getting into the links and wearing away the pins. Wearing a bracelet loose or snug should not make much difference. As noted above, an ultrasonic cleaner can help. Or just scrub the bracelet with a toothbrush and dish soap every couple of weeks. But never put the watch head in the ultrasonic cleaner. Just the bracelet.

If you want to see what worn pins look like, see the video below. Go to 5:31 if you don't want to watch everything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haV7H9Xk3zI

[TomWambsgans]

Originally Posted by 502 to Right

Bracelet "stretch" is primarily a function of grit getting into the links and wearing away the pins. Wearing a bracelet loose or snug should not make much difference. As noted above, an ultrasonic cleaner can help. Or just scrub the bracelet with a toothbrush and dish soap every couple of weeks. But never put the watch head in the ultrasonic cleaner. Just the bracelet.

If you want to see what worn pins look like, see the video below. Go to 5:31 if you don't want to watch everything.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haV7H9Xk3zI

Thanks!


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[offrdmania]

Keep in mind that stretch doesnt happen overnight. It could take a decade or more. It just depends on how often you wear the watch and in what environment. Basic office wear, im sure you wont see much stretch. Out in the field where you get exposed to dust and dirt then maybe you will see it but not for many years.

Wear the watch and enjoy it, no need to baby it.

[swiss_seth]

This is my opinion and it’s worth the photons on the screen but I wouldn’t do a strap with 18k DD. You would/should use the 9k spring bars with said .

If you mix and match steel spring bars you’ll create deformity and rapid wear from the harder metals and neither are super secure if your doing something physically active which will rip the bars from the case and also mar the gold case spring bar holes.

Easily repairable at a hefty price.

[offrdmania]

Originally Posted by swiss_seth

This is my opinion and it’s worth the photons on the screen but I wouldn’t do a strap with 18k DD. You would/should use the 9k spring bars with said .

If you mix and match steel spring bars you’ll create deformity and rapid wear from the harder metals and neither are super secure if your doing something physically active which will rip the bars from the case and also mar the gold case spring bar holes.

Easily repairable at a hefty price.

I did a write up about 5 years ago on the subject

https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=656334