A Lange vs Patek vs Vacheron dress watches

[ThatOtherGuy7]

How’s it going folks?

I’m in the market for a dressy watch as I don’t currently have one in the collection of sports watches. Was originally interested in JLC Ultra Thin Moon but after trying it on, I’m not sure how to feel about it. The other option was VC FiftySix date (non calendar or moon phase). It’s a nice piece but I feel that it’s on the more sporty side for a dress watch. I then came across the Traditionelle and prefer that over the FiftySix.

So to the question as I’ve now narrowed down to three: Patek Calatrave 6119 (tried it on the wrist and it’s nice), VC Traditionelle (haven’t tried or seen in person but looks super nice), and A Lange Saxonia Thin Blue Copper (haven’t seen or tried as the closest AD is an hour away). All three are great brands with great quality and movement. Would like to get folks’ opinion on which one to aim for.

Thank you,
K

[magicman]

If you don't have a dressy watch, I would go with the VC Traditionelle. It's really a spectacular and versatile dressy watch that could also be dressed down a bit if you wanted. The Lange Saxonia blue copper is striking but perhaps more a specific aesthetic that wouldn't pair as well with a wide array of outfits.

[SoylentGreenChi]

All terrific, can’t go wrong. My pick would be the VC Traditionelle, but only because the 6119 case doesn’t work on my wrist (too broad and flat), otherwise I’d go Patek.

[chaosiwe]

I agree that can’t go wrong with any of choices. Out of this 3 I would personally go with VC. If you are considering other brand I would suggest looking into Grand Seiko (e.g. SBGW231) for a fraction of price

[TikTok]

Lange, every day of the week. No contest for me.

[ts3]

I'd go VC Traditionelle among the given choices but in reality got a 1990s platinum Calatrava when I wanted a dress watch.

The Saxonia Thin is nice but not a fan of the blue one. Not a dial I want and unduly large at 39mm. I had thought about the regular 37mm Saxonia Thin but was afraid I might become bored. Just to add, the limited 1815 Thin is a beauty and the best of them IMO.

The 6119 is a swing and miss in my eyes. It sits square in a line of watches Patek have upsized (also to 39mm) but struggled to fill the extra space. I don't like the hobnail plus railtrack combo and the new movement looks cost engineered and uninspired to me.

[ChetBaker]

I’d go Patek 5212 or indeed a VC traditionelle 82172 in platinum if you can find it.

[mario1971]

Z tej trójki zdecydowanie VC Traditionelle. Był to mój pierwszy wybór, zanim ostatecznie kupiłem ALS 1815 Up/Down.

[jw0n]

I suppose my choice is biased:





Alternatively, if you don't mind a slightly sportier, dress sized watch, you could consider the new, smaller Reverso Tributes:

[mongrelnomoad]

No wrong answers in that bunch. I would probably go with the Calatrava although I think it’s a few mm to large. Have you checked out a 38.5mm Lange 1?

[Flint]

VC Traditionelle , for me a perfect size 38mm , I got green dial and never looked back

[SoylentGreenChi]

Originally Posted by mario1971

Z tej trójki zdecydowanie VC Traditionelle. Był to mój pierwszy wybór, zanim ostatecznie kupiłem ALS 1815 Up/Down.

Jeśli masz możliwość wyboru opcji góra/dół, zdecydowanie wybierz ALS 1815 Up/Down.

The ALS Up/Down is a triumph of symmetry and style. One one my favorite references - ever. That white gold traditionnelle is pretty great, too, wish it were still in the VC catalog.

[cactakla]

Love mine. Very warm, can dress it up or down easily.

[ThatOtherGuy7]

I was in the area and popped by local AD to try on the green dial Traditionnelle they have in stock. I really liked it! It’s clean, elegant, and youthful yet classy. Now the decision whether to buy from AD or trusted grey dealer. Anyone know when the green dial came out? Curious as I don’t see many listings on Chrono24.

[raclaims]

Also on the VC bandwagon on this one...great piece. Good luck!

[vitalsigns]

I would go with the VC Traditionelle.

The Patek 6119 just never worked for me visually, and the hobnail bezel takes it a bit too far in the flashy/dressy category.

The Lange is gorgeous, but less versatile with its blue dial.

The VC is a lovely understated dress watch.