fat wristed?

[watchnut]

I started this post earlier today and must have gotten too long winded because I think I got timed out. Does this happen? Anyway I bought a new 16610 Z series from my AD yesterday for 20% off. I was pretty happy. However the guy adjusted the bracelet as far out as it will go and it is a tad snug. I've seen on this forum where you should be able to slip a finger under the clasp. No Way! I know it is going to be a problem when warm weather gets here. He can order another link for $50 but I can't believe I need it. My wrists are not abnormally large and I have no problem at all with my vintage GMT. Why would the Sub Bracelet be different? I guess quit lifting or eating, one or the other!

[Gaijin]

I had the same problem with my 16610 LV Z series. I am down to the last notch on the adjustment. My AD said I will need to add a link if I want it any looser.

[JJ Irani]

Originally Posted by watchnut

I started this post earlier today and must have gotten too long winded because I think I got timed out. Does this happen? Anyway I bought a new 16610 Z series from my AD yesterday for 20% off. I was pretty happy. However the guy adjusted the bracelet as far out as it will go and it is a tad snug. I've seen on this forum where you should be able to slip a finger under the clasp. No Way! I know it is going to be a problem when warm weather gets here. He can order another link for $50 but I can't believe I need it. My wrists are not abnormally large and I have no problem at all with my vintage GMT. Why would the Sub Bracelet be different? I guess quit lifting or eating, one or the other!

I think I might be able to help you out on this one if you can answer the following questions:

1. How much does your wrist measure? If it's around 7½" you should not have to add or remove any links.

2. Can you post a picture of the bracelet and in which hole you've got the micropin in the clasp set?

Take a look at these pictures. These are my SUBs and I've had it exactly like this from day one straight out of the box. You can see that the micropin is in the THIRD hole from the end of the clasp.

[watchnut]

Thanks JJ! I really enjoy reading your posts! I think the only reason you get picked on is that you are so far away people know you can't go postal on them! Anyway, I measured my wrist and it's right on 7 1/2". However the micro pin is in the last hole on mine. I appear to have the same number of links as you. So I guess I'll be looking at another link sometime. I should have negotiated it in on the sale..Thanks..

[JJ Irani]

Originally Posted by watchnut

Thanks JJ! I really enjoy reading your posts! I think the only reason you get picked on is that you are so far away people know you can't go postal on them! Anyway, I measured my wrist and it's right on 7 1/2". However the micro pin is in the last hole on mine. I appear to have the same number of links as you. So I guess I'll be looking at another link sometime. I should have negotiated it in on the sale..Thanks..

Well, I wear my watch on my left hand whose wrist is 7¼"....so if your wrist is only a ¼" more, I see no reason why you should need an extra link. I think your wrist would be closer to 7 3/4" IMHO.

And you're damn lucky it's not a TT link which would set you back around $265. The SS link is much, much cheaper!! If you go back to your AD, I'm sure he'd throw in the link for free and make the final adjustments so your clasp sits dead centre of your wrist like this.... Good luck!

[capoots]

I must be a freak. I have 6 on each side. I tried it your way, and i dont even come close. 4 on the 6 oclock side throws it way off for me.

[sinbad]

Some ADs keep the extra links when customers get fiited in the store. Possibly your AD will add the extra link without charge since they are lying around. Check with them. I always ask where my extra links are when getting fitted (just in case they forgot to put them in my box).

[sevoguy]

Originally Posted by JJ Irani

And you're damn lucky it's not a TT link which would set you back around $265. The SS link is much, much cheaper!! .... Good luck!

Yes it is As JJ can attest, my "manly" wrist diameter required me to purchase a TT link: $270 US if I remember correctly. But, it fits just perfectly and passes the "one finger test."

Sevoguy

[tonelar]

Originally Posted by sinbad

Some ADs keep the extra links when customers get fiited in the store. Possibly your AD will add the extra link without charge since they are lying around. Check with them. I always ask where my extra links are when getting fitted (just in case they forgot to put them in my box).

That's a good point... he shouldn't charge you for an extra link...

[mikey]

I must admit I am a fat wrist. After I gained nearly 100 pounds, I am sure my wrist measures the same as before, but a watch is no longer comfortable to me until I discovered the great Nato. I am able to wear a Rolex comfortably. I am usually short winded, so I find myself falling asleep before I can do any exercises.

[walds11]

Holy crap bro, 20% off SS Sub Date? Can I have 10?

Originally Posted by watchnut

Anyway I bought a new 16610 Z series from my AD yesterday for 20% off. I was pretty happy.

[JJ Irani]

Originally Posted by capoots

I must be a freak. I have 6 on each side. I tried it your way, and i dont even come close. 4 on the 6 oclock side throws it way off for me.

With 6 links on each side, your clasp should be way off centre. You can never have an even no. on either side....always more on the '12' side.

Try 7 links on the '12' side and the rest (should be 4½) on the '6' side. With this arrangement, you should get the clasp centralised as in the above picture.

JJ

[capoots]

I actually have 6 on the 12 and 6 1/2 on the 6 side. If I did a 7 and 4 1/2, that would result in me removing a link. If if do 7 and 5 1/2, the clasp sits a little more off centered toward the inner side of my wrist. Right now it sits a little off centered to the outward side of my wrist. I would say that I am about a 1/2 link away from being centered.

[watchnut]

Originally Posted by walds11

Holy crap bro, 20% off SS Sub Date? Can I have 10?

I was amazed myself at that discount. I think I had mentioned that I was thinking about going out of state to avoid tax so he kind of made the price after tax more palatable. He also had a pristine EXP II that had been traded by a collector. It was a couple years old and was beautiful! Asking $3500. I am still thinking about that white dialed beauty. Buyers remorse, I guess. Incidentally, I did call him and had him order another link. It will be interesting to see if I get charged. He did'nt mention having any around the store.

[slim]

Do you think he is willing to sell me one at 20% off? Thats a great deal! Post some pics david!

[Ragu]

I need to add two links to my Rolex(s). The watchmaker lady said adding one link is not un-common but having to add two, all she said is "WOW".
She then takes out a cloth measuring tape and measures 8 1/2" around my left wrist which is where I wear my watch. Each link cost me $35 but fitting was free. So for me right off the bat I need to add two links each time.
My AD has a TT Daytona that I asked to try on. I couldn't fit the watch over my hand at it's maximum opening.

[Kris]

I have a question about adjusting the micro-pin on the clasp.

My watch is an SD and it too has the micro-pin at the 3rd position.

I've tried adjusting/tightening up the braclet by removing a link, however, doing this made the braclet too snug and during changes in temperature, too tight. So I added back the link.

I believe that by moving the micro-pin to the 4th and final position, will give me the best fit possible on the watch.

I have the Rolex 2100 tool in my kit. Do I use the side opposite the flathead screwdrive to pop the micro-pin out and then pop it back into the 4th position?

When I shake the 2100 tool, I can hear a rattling sound inside the stem. I'm assuming that there is another adjustable head inside the tool. How do I access it?

How do I change out tool ends?

Can someone walk me step by step (pics if possible) on how to adjust the micro-pin without losing the pin, or scratching up the polished clasp?

Thanks

[GMT Master II]

I had to add a link to my Sea Dweller a couple of months ago. My local AD, who I don't use because they are not trustworthy, wanted $150.00 for one ss link. I drove to the AD that I originally purchased the watch from and got a link for $50.00. They are about an hour away from where I live but it was worth the trip. I called Rolex in N.Y. and reported the local AD. Rolex called back and said the store claimed they made a mistake. As it turns out I work with a guy whose wife works at the local AD. He had his wife check and she said it was $150.00 for one link for a SD. She thinks I purchased an aftermarket link. I offered to bring the Rolex bag with the part number sticker on it to offer as proof but all my co-worker could say was "You got a deal." Translation, they sold you a link for $50.00 when they should have charged $150.00. Basically he still doesn't believe me. I told him to call Rolex in N.Y. and ask what a link should cost. Naturally he declined.

My Dweller fit fine and all of a sudden it was too tight. I didn't gain any weight but it was still too snug. With another link I have some breathing room. The GMT I have has some additional adjustment that the Dweller and Subs do not.

[JJ Irani]

Originally Posted by capoots

I actually have 6 on the 12 and 6 1/2 on the 6 side. If I did a 7 and 4 1/2, that would result in me removing a link. If if do 7 and 5 1/2, the clasp sits a little more off centered toward the inner side of my wrist. Right now it sits a little off centered to the outward side of my wrist. I would say that I am about a 1/2 link away from being centered.

Your link configuration is very confusing. I would really like to see a picture of that.

Have a close look at my pics above. You will see that there are actually 9 links on the 12 o'clock side, but 2 of these will eventualy fold up into the clasp when the extension is closed. Which leaves 7 links sticking out and 4½ links on the 6 o'clock side.

With what you have described in your post, I can only see a very lop-sided fit. If you could post a pic of your watch in profile like I've done, that'll give me a fair idea of how you've arranged the links on your watch.

Also a picture on the wrist would help.

Thanks - JJ

[tonelar]

Originally Posted by walds11

Holy crap bro, 20% off SS Sub Date? Can I have 10?

Originally Posted by slim

Do you think he is willing to sell me one at 20% off? Thats a great deal! Post some pics david!

Hi guys,
One of the local dealers here in SF has a new 16610 for $4150 out the door... is that the same thing as 20% off?

Originally Posted by Kris

I have a question about adjusting the micro-pin on the clasp.
I believe that by moving the micro-pin to the 4th and final position, will give me the best fit possible on the watch.
I have the Rolex 2100 tool in my kit. Do I use the side opposite the flathead screwdrive to pop the micro-pin out and then pop it back into the 4th position?
When I shake the 2100 tool, I can hear a rattling sound inside the stem. I'm assuming that there is another adjustable head inside the tool. How do I access it?
How do I change out tool ends?
Can someone walk me step by step (pics if possible) on how to adjust the micro-pin without losing the pin, or scratching up the polished clasp?
Thanks

Kris,
Use a toothpick with a sharp end to depress the spring pin on your clasp... no way you can hurt your clasp that way. Crab walk first one end then the other to the hole you want (this way you don't lose the pin).
The things rattling inside the tool are spare screws (in case you lose some) pull the pointy end off the tool to access them.
Let the diver's extension out before adjusting the bracelet... less resistance this way.

[Andad]

Hi JJ,

My wrist is also 71/4" and my ss sub has exactly the same link and pin set up as you have.

Perfect fit and clasp position.

ec

[Alex Stylianou]

no

[walds11]

Yep. I buy pre-owned, so I guess I shouldn't be concerned with AD discounts.

Originally Posted by tonelar

Hi guys,
One of the local dealers here in SF has a new 16610 for $4150 out the door... is that the same thing as 20% off?

[watchnut]

20% off retail is $4140. If you're getting it for that price out the door including tax, IMHO it's a great deal.