Rolex diamond bezel authentication and history

[dpa94114]

Thanks...this is great information.

I was just looking at an 1807 with 40 diamonds in the bezel - with suspicious eyes - and your info would confirm my suspicions.

[jenniferjanef]

Originally Posted by Tonka007

Here a better view.

This is a factory diamond dial?

Those diamonds look so big..

What do you think David?

.. Jen

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by jenniferjanef

This is a factory diamond dial?



Those diamonds look so big..



What do you think David?



.. Jen

Original older style bezel

[huangwenshen]

Thanks for taking the time to detail this - it was very helpful to understand my watch better. Reading this and referencing this (http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=387926) I wonder what combination of bezel and dial my 18238 originally came as; I can only assume a fluted bezel with sapphire dial (13/18038 - S63)

[SL BRABUS]

Nice presidents David......

Thanks for sharing the pictures of your watches & information....

[dianariesta]

great information, what about this1803 bezel. i was told by the previous owner that he bought it on an AD in Singapore.

[dianariesta]

[IMG][/IMG]

[fskywalker]

Awesome writeup! Thanks David!

[SkyKing31]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

There are some rarer bezels from the mid 80’s with 40 diamonds on men’s crown collection and 36 on ladies watches, they were called cartouche bezels, see photos they are very distinct and engraved with Rolex on the front. You can apply the above tests.

I saw a dial just like this with the same type of bezel some time ago. In fact, it was worn by a doctor treating me at the time (young resident) and was given to him by his father who bought the watch new. What is the style of dial called? I've always wanted to know. Perhaps you mentioned the dial and I missed it.

[MonBK]

Originally Posted by jenniferjanef

This is a factory diamond dial?

Those diamonds look so big..

What do you think David?

.. Jen

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Original older style bezel

Wow David, great write up that I somehow missed.

The diamond settings placement on this dial makes me think it's aftermarket?

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by MonBK

Wow David, great write up that I somehow missed.



The diamond settings placement on this dial makes me think it's aftermarket?

Yeah I hear you and you are generally right but for whatever reason around 1.5 mill serial pan pie 1804 for a short time Rolex changed the setting for about 2 years only on platinum versions called big diamond dial for some reason by collectors see Jacek's pic and vrf link here's a close up cheers pic from the recent rare day date auction cheers Leo hope this helps




http://www.network54.com/Forum/20759...s+ago+%26gt%3B


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[MonBK]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Yeah I hear you and you are generally right but for whatever reason around 1.5 mill serial pan pie 1804 for a short time Rolex changed the setting for about 2 years only on platinum versions called big diamond dial for some reason by collectors see Jacek's pic and vrf link here's a close up cheers pic from the recent rare day date auction cheers Leo hope this helps

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I hear you my friend but I meant the DD in post 22 and 23.

Look at the settings on each side of the day.

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by MonBK

I hear you my friend but I meant the DD in post 22 and 23.



Look at the settings on each side of the day.

You mean the setting is low ?


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[garymj]

Sorry to open an old thread. I need a little help. Bought a new 18248 "bark" back in the early 90s. After about 10 years of ownership, a Rolex ad in old bonds street sold me a diamond bezel. Any way it went back to Rolex for a major service in 2008 and came back ok. But I'm now swapping it for a new day date 40 soon . Is there any chance the bezel could be aftermarket. many thanks.

[crowncollection]

Not if Rolex serviced it in 2008 with it on


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[garymj]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Not if Rolex serviced it in 2008 with it on


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Thanks for that,just wanted to be sure

[Rob Spayne]

First off, hats off to Crown Collection for his consistently great contributions, furthering our collective knowledge on some arcane topics.

In this thread, he discusses the diamond bezels that Rolex dealers stocked to up-sell customers. Specifically,

"18000 series men’s day- date –
44 brilliants set in yellow gold (part code MBZ4488)
44 brilliants set in platinum (part code MBZ4466).
46 brilliants set in white gold (part code MBZ4690)"

My question is, did these bezels have larger stones than the standard factory bezels (that would have come on a 18348 for example)? Or, in the case of the white metal bezels on YG watches, is it just an optical illusion that the diamonds are larger?

Thank you.

[smithassignment1]

This red color on the watch makes is WoW... good transfusion of colors

[miamiclay]

I wanted to add my thanks for this great info - If you ever do the piece on diamond dials, maybe also one on factory diamond bracelets as well? The overall ‘bracelets’ thread only has a couple of ladies’ diamond bracelets.

[Wiener48]

Fantastic information on this thread, thank you very much!!!

[Zepman]

Can you tell if this one is authentic or aftermarket

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333587303698?ul_noapp=true

[TimeLord2]

Wow! What a great thread! These watches truly are stunning, and I hate using that word but these references more than qualify. Also, impressive research to put all of this together. Thank you! I would never be able to pull off diamonds myself, not that I could afford them!

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

when i have time i will post about diamond dials, impossible to show them all as so many variations, but you can tell by the setting once again and by removing the dial and looking at the back, also knowledge of time periods for various setting helps regards,

David - First, thanks again for your great information!

It’s been … a while, but I still hold out hope that you might undertake this same sort of “deep dive” into the variety and timelines for the different DD diamond dials.

[watchexch]

From what I know, Rolex doesn’t put diamond bezel on non-precious metal Watches


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[Incroyable12]

I echo Miamiclay.

Would love to see a breakdown of the factory diamond dials.

[MikeCa]

Great thread, really helpful as I try to learn about a 18388, 1990 serial number, that I just picked up through family. Thank you.

[chocopeluche]

Does anyone have pictures of the baguette style bezel unmounted ? 18X5X style. Mainly looking to understand how it looks from the bottom. Is it fully open or are there slots for each gem ?

[Incroyable12]

I'm also quite curious why Rolex chose to use platinum diamond bezels for certain yellow gold Day Date models.

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by Incroyable12

I'm also quite curious why Rolex chose to use platinum diamond bezels for certain yellow gold Day Date models.

If you mean the four digit 180X/1804 models, I think they are white gold, not platinum. This was pretty common as late as the 1960s, presumably because white metal showed off the color quality of the stones better. You can also see a lot of women’s jewelry from that era which has yellow gold everywhere except the mount.

[Incroyable12]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

If you mean the four digit 180X/1804 models, I think they are white gold, not platinum. This was pretty common as late as the 1960s, presumably because white metal showed off the color quality of the stones better. You can also see a lot of women’s jewelry from that era which has yellow gold everywhere except the mount.

I think certain YG models had the white gold bezels well into the 90s.

I recall seeing it in the dealer catalog. On the other hand I've also seen two tone dial combinations where a white gold watch has yellow gold marker dial and hands. I'm not sure if that was factory or if someone decided they liked that combination.