Uncomfortable 116610 !

[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Chester01

I have a 16610 and don’t have that problem, as the watch is a good deal lighter. Turns out the added heft of the solid link bracelet is not an advantage especially if one is going to be active while wearing it.

Yeah...except for the minimum of five links on the 6 o’clock side with a 16610, which on my wrist causes it to kick to the 12 o’clock side.

It would be perfect if you could run four links on the six o’clock side on a 16610, but alas...

[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Jmbarrack

Agreed. I've owned several 6 digit models, sub, gmt, SD4k. All of them uncomfortable and eventually sold them. The 5 digit equivalents I've also owned. All of them miles ahead of the newer references in terms of comfort and daily wrist wearing. The bulk of the new references weighs the watch down and makes them pull in all different directions. I tried every possible configuration to no avail.

My 116523 Daytona is the only 6 digit reference that wears comfortable to me. Again, I think it's due to the less sharp and less bulky case, because the overall weight of the two-tone Daytona is the same or a little more than the 116610.

What’s your wrist shape & size?

[Jmbarrack]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

What’s your wrist shape & size?

6.75 inches, flat.

[Dirt]

Originally Posted by johnorpheus

lol what? Most of the time any thread about Sub proportions gets hijacked by constant whining about the 6 digit size. Most 6 digit owners are happy just to wear their watch and enjoy it. The 5 digit people are the ones constantly throwing a fit about how Rolex refuses to produce a modern watch they like.

That's not the case(no pun intended) with myself though.
I just can't appreciate the direction away from a classic style Rolex toward that of a blob. It was a step too far IMO.
The 6 digit Sub is not fish nor fowl in that it's not like the classic Rolex conservative style and it's not a proper squared off design.
If i personally ever wanted to pick up a squared off case design i might look toward a Panerai. But i don't like it very much and never have.

FYI, until you mentioned this aspect I wasn't fussed about going there.
Anyway, we are drifting off topic.

[Dirt]

Originally Posted by Jmbarrack

6.75 inches, flat.

In that case Andad's suggestion would seem viable to try out if you haven't already

[Dirt]

Originally Posted by bp1000

This is rarely discussed but a very good point.

Look at the inner part of the clasp and where it sits on your wrist. Adjust the links until it matches the curvature of your wrist,

If the end of the inner clasp digs into your wrist it’s going to be noticeable after a lot of wear and also push the watch in the opposite direction.

A good point he made

It's certainly a factor

[ndrs63]

I love mine, however it is not my most comfortable watch!


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[Chester01]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

Yeah...except for the minimum of five links on the 6 o’clock side with a 16610, which on my wrist causes it to kick to the 12 o’clock side.

It would be perfect if you could run four links on the six o’clock side on a 16610, but alas...

That happens to me too. But I also notice that my hand tilts that way when typing or driving and causes much of that tendency.


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[Dirt]

Originally Posted by drrd

Anyone here find Deepsea or Sea Dweller more comfortable than Sub?

I know you can't just ignore all the extra weight of the Deepsea but the thick caseback keeps the crown away from the wrist and the DS-specific Glidelock makes it easy to fine tune fit through the day.

I just noticed some above saying a flatter back would be better but I'm not so sure.

I can't speak to 6 digit Sub ownership/fit as I've never tried one on.
With regard to the DSSD (116660), I have found the overall Case-back profile to be quite flat overall in combination with the larger area which suits the contours of my wrist. It makes for a comfortable watch despite the weight.
Also unlike the OP, I wear mine a little on the loose side and it allows it to move around which is a requirement.

I have found all other Sea-dweller case-backs to protrude too far which makes them perch up on top of my wrist and consequently they move around uncomfortably.

So in that regard the DSSD case-back is very different and is a more comfortable arrangement for me by a good margin because the design is more recessed.

[JonnyBCisco]

Originally Posted by Jmbarrack

6.75 inches, flat.

Try this combo. 4 links on the 6 o'clock end, 6 links (or 7) on the 12 o'clock. Then adjust with glidelock as needed.

[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by JonnyBCisco

Try this combo. 4 links on the 6 o'clock end, 6 links (or 7) on the 12 o'clock. Then adjust with glidelock as needed.

No half link?

Speaking of, what is the purpose of the half link on a watch with Glidelock? It would be great to have one on my 14060 to fine tune the fit, but I’m curious why on the Sub and other large divers get them from the factory...

[Jmbarrack]

Originally Posted by JonnyBCisco

Try this combo. 4 links on the 6 o'clock end, 6 links (or 7) on the 12 o'clock. Then adjust with glidelock as needed.

Thanks for the tip. I tried that and I also tried 4 at 6 and 5 and half at 12. Also tried 4 and 5, 4 and 4 and had the glidelock all the way out. No luck.

What I found most uncomfortable was the sharp edge on the case opposite the crown side. It always felt like it was digging into my skin and irritating.

Never had that issue with the 5 digits. I assumed it was always the extra weight in the bracelet and case, but then the 116523 is heavier, but much more comfortable. I think it’s just the super case.


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[watchmework]

Originally Posted by Mystro

X2. The glide lock clasp is bigger and heavier and needs to be off center for some wrist as not to dig into the middle tendons. I have noticed the GMT clasp to be more comfortable and not as bulky as the glide lock clasp because the way the glide lock can be adjusted to be longer.

This is so true mystro!

[JonnyBCisco]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

No half link?

Speaking of, what is the purpose of the half link on a watch with Glidelock? It would be great to have one on my 14060 to fine tune the fit, but I’m curious why on the Sub and other large divers get them from the factory...

Whoops my mistake yes I didn’t even notice it: there is a half link at 12 o’clock. Good catch. Therefore the magic formula for a 6.25 - 6.75 inch wrist should be 6.5 links at 12 o’clock and 4 links at 6 o’clock.

[Burlington]

Slightly more radical options if none of the above work.

Try the other wrist so the crown won’t dig in.

Also consider putting it on a rubber strap. It’s an extremely comfortable option.

[Greglaw]

Agreed not comfortable

[Freshly206]

Part of the problem w the Sub is that the case back sticks out. For people like me with a skinny wrist, the back needs to sit perfectly in the right spot on the wrist in order to be comfortable. If it’s not in that perfect spot, it lays awkwardly and feels uncomfortable.


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[StillTrying]

With a wrist just under 7” I could never get a comfortable fit with my 114060. Eventually went to a 214270. Four links on 6 o’clock side and six links on the 12 o’clock side, along with the smaller clasp, makes for a perfect fit.


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[DCheeta]

Same issue here. I’m trying hard to get used to the 114060, but it’s just not comfortable. I’ll probably just go back to the 214270 which fit me perfectly.

[TswaneNguni]

Originally Posted by drrd

Anyone here find Deepsea or Sea Dweller more comfortable than Sub?

I know you can't just ignore all the extra weight of the Deepsea but the thick caseback keeps the crown away from the wrist and the DS-specific Glidelock makes it easy to fine tune fit through the day.

I just noticed some above saying a flatter back would be better but I'm not so sure.

116660 DSSD is my most worn watch .7.9 inch wrist .Its all in the size of the wrist .PAM 422 as an example is 47mm but has a flat case back ,so will suit a smaller wrist better than a DSSD.
DSSD is for large wrists.Period .

[Andad]

Sometimes 40mm looks small sometimes it looks big Neef.

[Rado63]

definitely need to do as others suggested, move links from the 12 side to the six side or vice versa. The fit may also be different because Omega crowns and crown guards are slighly different size and contour.

[Devildog]

Originally Posted by Crazy Lugs

No half link?

Speaking of, what is the purpose of the half link on a watch with Glidelock? It would be great to have one on my 14060 to fine tune the fit, but I’m curious why on the Sub and other large divers get them from the factory...

Because you size a bracelet on the six o’clock side only to get watch head and clasp placement. The half link gives you that extra flexibility on the six o’clock side.

There is in all reality no reason to need the half link on the 12 o’clock side due to the glide lock adjustability, unless you have a larger wrist and need the extra length.

You then adjust the 12 o’clock side depending on how tight or loose you want the bracelet to be.

That’s why the glide lock adjusts the length of the 12 o’clock side


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[watchwatcher]

Honestly, I'm confused by your post. In hot weather, has the opposite effect, i.e, the bracelet becomes tighter on the wrist, hence the need for some sort of micro adjustment.

How your watch is becoming looser and slipping down your wrist is a mystery to me. I would suggest though, that you take some time and have it adjusted properly so that it is comfortable to wear. It seems odd that you already haven't done so.

[Oxfordian]

Originally Posted by SearChart

I hate wearing a watch in hot humid weather. I also just really hate hot weather.

It is no watch or something on NATO when it's hot for me.

Nato straps in the summer, easy to adjust if wrist swells or contracts, cooler than a bracelet, less sweaty than leather, just a win win for me.

[Xenon]

But...but...but...the 6 digit Sub bracelet buries the 5 digit Sub tuna can clasp

[brandrea]

Originally Posted by watchwatcher

Honestly, I'm confused by your post. In hot weather, has the opposite effect, i.e, the bracelet becomes tighter on the wrist, hence the need for some sort of micro adjustment.

How your watch is becoming looser and slipping down your wrist is a mystery to me. I would suggest though, that you take some time and have it adjusted properly so that it is comfortable to wear. It seems odd that you already haven't done so.

My thoughts too.

OP, if your wrist is 6.75”. I’d start with 5.5 at 12 and 4 at 6. I’m guessing the glidelock would be adjusted out to about the second notch to start with on a normal day and you’d have plenty to slide out on warmer days

[Crazy Lugs]

Originally Posted by Devildog

Because you size a bracelet on the six o’clock side only to get watch head and clasp placement. The half link gives you that extra flexibility on the six o’clock side.

There is in all reality no reason to need the half link on the 12 o’clock side due to the glide lock adjustability, unless you have a larger wrist and need the extra length.

You then adjust the 12 o’clock side depending on how tight or loose you want the bracelet to be.

That’s why the glide lock adjusts the length of the 12 o’clock side


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Awesome! Thanks so much for the clear explanation!

[Freshly206]

Originally Posted by Devildog

Because you size a bracelet on the six o’clock side only to get watch head and clasp placement. The half link gives you that extra flexibility on the six o’clock side.

There is in all reality no reason to need the half link on the 12 o’clock side due to the glide lock adjustability, unless you have a larger wrist and need the extra length.

You then adjust the 12 o’clock side depending on how tight or loose you want the bracelet to be.

That’s why the glide lock adjusts the length of the 12 o’clock side


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When fitting what do you do with the glidelock? It seems to add an additional complication to the fitting process that is throwing me off. Should I start by setting the glidelock (somewhere in the middle) or just leave it alone and start with the 12-o’clock length?

My guess is to start with the 6-o’clock length and add enough links so the clasp sits in the middle of my wrist, then set the glidelock in the middle and determine how many links for the 12-o’clock right??


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[Devildog]

Originally Posted by Freshly206

When fitting what do you do with the glidelock? It seems to add an additional complication to the fitting process that is throwing me off. Should I start by setting the glidelock (somewhere in the middle) or just leave it alone and start with the 12-o’clock length?

My guess is to start with the 6-o’clock length and add enough links so the clasp sits in the middle of my wrist, then set the glidelock in the middle and determine how many links for the 12-o’clock right??


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Pretty much yes.

Always do the six o’clock side first

Place the watch head where it’s most comfortable, and then adjust the six o’clock side length until the inner clasp blade is where you want it (that’s more relevant for non glidelock clasps where the blades are longer than the outer part)

As for where the glidelock sits, I prefer to keep as many links as possible so mine is set one away from it’s tightest setting meaning I’ve got an extra link but as long as you’ve got some adjustment either way it’s really a matter of preference

Starting in the middle would be a good way to do it.

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