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#1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
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6426 Bracelet
Hi everyone— I recently purchased a Rolex 6426 from 1973. I’m trying to source a bracelet for this but having a tough time. I would actually prefer an aftermarket bracelet, but the one I got on eBay had end links that did not fit. The aftermarket 78350 was a no go with 455 end links. Then I bought aftermarket 557 end links and that didn’t work. Am I on the wrong track entirely? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
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#2 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 452
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Aftermarket bracelets often have wrong or meaningless numbers on the links and end links and so it gets confusing.
The watch case has a 19mm lug width and so if you want a solid link Oyster bracelet you need to find a 78350 with 19 stamped underneath the 78350. 557 end links on that bracelet should then be correct for the case profile, but you might find 557B also work. If you look at other 6426 watches for sale you will find this combination quite often and can check the photos to make sure you are happy with the fit. |
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#3 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
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Thank you—I appreciate the info!
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#4 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: michigan
Posts: 2,296
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Quote:
Really depends on the date range, early 60s came on rivet links, late 60s-70s folded link 7835 and 78350 80s+/replacement from Rolex. Personally find the 78350 a bitt too hefty for the 6426. The original ratty folded link has a very unique charm to it Dates might be a few yrs off, but definitely alot of variants depending on the vintage |
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#5 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
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Quote:
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#6 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
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Would you suggest getting a 7835 in that case? If so, which Endlinks would work for the 1973 6426? I’m not sure how much something like that would be price wise? I’m kind of tempted to go aftermarket if I could get one to fit because I wouldn’t have to worry so much about it and could size it myself.
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#7 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 6,128
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My suggestion is to do a google image search for your reference and look for photos showing the watch with the bracelet that you prefer. Click on those links and see what endlinks are being used. If you spend 15 minutes on this exercise, you will have all the information you need. I am guessing that most of the 19mm endlinks (257, 357, etc.) will fit reasonably well after some adjustment.
With some patience, I think you could find a decent 7835 or 78350 for under $1k. It just depends what style you prefer. The rivets are also very nice IMO.
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#8 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 452
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The correct end link number for the case always ends in 57 so the progression through time is:
Rivet bracelet (7205?) - 57 end links Folded link bracelet (7835) - 257 or 357 end links Solid link bracelet (78350) - 557 end links |
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#9 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,552
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I'll check mine but i'm almost certain I have a 78350 with 557 endlinks. come back tonight. it fits well from memory.
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#10 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2023
Location: Arizona
Posts: 8
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Appreciate the feedback everyone. If I needed to go aftermarket is there any viable option?
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#11 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Real Name: Paul
Location: Cantabrigia - G.B
Watch: ing the detectives
Posts: 2,725
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Quote:
In the UK in 60s and early 70s the 6426 also came on a 19mm (with a so called ‘flush fit’ 19mm end links as per early Daytonas on a jubilee) jubilee folded link from dealers too, if you asked nicely, and stumped up the £2-6/3 extra* *which is before 1974 and our mental UK predecimal currency and is deciphered thus: £2 sterling + 6 Bob (1 Bob was 5 pence) so 30pence + Thrupence (3 pence) extra required. Total £2.33
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