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Old 18 October 2023, 07:39 PM   #1
rolexenjoyer
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Ultimate dress watch: Patek Calatrava or VC Patrimony?

Looking for a dress watch to wear for formal occasions and events. I already own the Patek Aquanaut as my daily wear.

Struggling to decide between the two. Help me decide and pick one, but dont forget to explain why!

I've attatched the images below, with the 1st one being the Patek Calatrava (5227R-001) and the 2nd being the VC Patrimony (85180/000R-9248)
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File Type: png Patek Calatrava.png (223.5 KB, 487 views)
File Type: png VC Patrimony.png (224.2 KB, 485 views)
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Old 18 October 2023, 11:36 PM   #2
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I’d take the PP. i like date placement and framed date window. I also prefer the bezel and the way the lugs “flow” into the case on the PP. The last thing, without ever handling either of these watches, is the hands and hour indices. I feel the larger, faceted hands and markers on the PP may make it easier to tell the time in low light conditions.

Again, I’ve never seen either watch i person but based on these pics alone the PP wins out in every way for me.
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Old 18 October 2023, 11:46 PM   #3
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I prefer the looks of the VC over the 5227 by a small margin. However, I'd never get a 40mm basic dress watch that is all dial as it will wear far too large for my liking. Referring to your other thread I'd rather get a 5296 than either of the above.

IMO the VC to get is the manual Traditionelle, 82172/000R-9382 in RG. I'd pick that one over a comparable 5196 (or 6119) by a mile. They also make an automatic Traditionelle with date which I find less attractive.
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Old 19 October 2023, 01:52 AM   #4
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I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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Old 19 October 2023, 02:02 AM   #5
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Calatrava, but the sensible answer is to have both
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Old 19 October 2023, 02:41 AM   #6
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Of those two Id go PP.
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Old 19 October 2023, 02:47 AM   #7
gretch6364
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Of those two Id go PP.
I agree....but like others, feel there are some VCs that beat both. Also, for me personally, this is not a spot a would spend for a PP. The JLC options are cheaper and just as good IMHO.
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Old 19 October 2023, 02:48 AM   #8
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I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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This is the best choice.
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Old 19 October 2023, 03:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ts3 View Post
I prefer the looks of the VC over the 5227 by a small margin. However, I'd never get a 40mm basic dress watch that is all dial as it will wear far too large for my liking. Referring to your other thread I'd rather get a 5296 than either of the above.

IMO the VC to get is the manual Traditionelle, 82172/000R-9382 in RG. I'd pick that one over a comparable 5196 (or 6119) by a mile. They also make an automatic Traditionelle with date which I find less attractive.

+1…manual traditionelle is where it’s at in this comparison


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Old 19 October 2023, 05:49 AM   #10
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Of the two, I prefer the VC.
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Old 19 October 2023, 05:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by RaZCaL View Post
I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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No doubt the correct answer.
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Old 19 October 2023, 06:19 AM   #12
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I like the softer lines and curved lugs of the Patek.


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Old 19 October 2023, 07:04 AM   #13
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Neither. VC Traditionelle wins it for me
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Old 19 October 2023, 08:35 AM   #14
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I love that Patek, and I can't get on board with the teeny little crown on the VC.
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Old 19 October 2023, 10:02 AM   #15
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Ultimate dress watch: Patek Calatrava or VC Patrimony?

Would you consider Lange?
This is a much more interesting watch to me.

Between your two choices only, I’d go with the Patek

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Old 19 October 2023, 10:28 AM   #16
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I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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Agreed. This is answer
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Old 19 October 2023, 10:45 AM   #17
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Old 19 October 2023, 11:23 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolexenjoyer View Post
Looking for a dress watch to wear for formal occasions and events. I already own the Patek Aquanaut as my daily wear.

Struggling to decide between the two. Help me decide and pick one, but dont forget to explain why!

I've attatched the images below, with the 1st one being the Patek Calatrava (5227R-001) and the 2nd being the VC Patrimony (85180/000R-9248)
If it has to be between those two, I'd go with the Patek, as I think the smaller size, the hands, and the date window border works better overall. However, while these are technically dress watches, I would argue that they are more "office watches" due to the date and the sweep seconds. A true formal dress is going to lack a date and have a sub seconds, as both are more traditional.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZCaL View Post
I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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As several others on here have said, I think this or the Patek 6119R are the better choices for a special occasions dress watch. I much prefer manual wind and no date, which is easier to set, for a special occasions dress watch. The 82172 is just as nice as the 6119R and it's considerably less expensive, although I wouldn't fault one for getting a 6119R. You also might consider Lange, particularly the 1815.

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I agree....but like others, feel there are some VCs that beat both. Also, for me personally, this is not a spot a would spend for a PP. The JLC options are cheaper and just as good IMHO.
If one were willing to go for steel or to go used, I'd agree with the JLC suggestion, but given that the poster seems to be interested in a new gold dress watch, JLC doesn't make sense for the price, as their comparable model (the Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds) is only $3,100 less than the VC, and the VC is a vastly superior watch for a small premium. Also, neither brand seems to be discounted any longer as Richemont moves to its all boutique master plan.

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Great suggestion if one were interested in a dress chronograph!
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Old 19 October 2023, 12:02 PM   #19
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PP Calatrava > VC Traditionelle > ALS Lange 1 > VC Patrimony
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Old 19 October 2023, 01:10 PM   #20
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From these options I would go for for the PP.


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Old 19 October 2023, 01:25 PM   #21
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Patek. Simplicity in elegance.


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Old 19 October 2023, 02:09 PM   #22
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I'd go for PP based on just these two options as I'm not a fan of the markers on that particular VC.

Aside from those two, I'd probably go for the VC manual-winding small seconds Traditionnelle.
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Old 19 October 2023, 02:18 PM   #23
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This


Quote:
Originally Posted by RaZCaL View Post
I agree with the above. I would get the VC manual-winding Traditionnelle. Just purchased one this year and love it! The finishing of the movement and quality is incredible!




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Old 19 October 2023, 02:37 PM   #24
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I’d go for PP 6119R unless the date is a must
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Old 19 October 2023, 06:12 PM   #25
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For me it would be a 5196G…anyway, PP gets my vote.
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Old 19 October 2023, 06:28 PM   #26
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VC, preferably Traditionnelle
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Old 19 October 2023, 09:45 PM   #27
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Out of these two, I'd pick the Patek. However, the ultimate dress watch would come from Lange.

I also have an affinity for an interesting shaped dress watch that you could get from Cartier.
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Old 20 October 2023, 05:15 AM   #28
rolexenjoyer
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The 5196 is very plain. Not forking my money on that
The 6119's hobnail isn't classy to me
Regarding the Traditionnelle, I'm just not a fan of that dial's railtrack
The ALS looks too chunky, even the thin ones like the saxonias have weird bezels


Now regarding the 5227 vs the Patrimony, I think I currently lean more towards the 5227. The smaller dial is better for my 6.5" wrists, and I think i could wear it to the office more often than not. And like someone else here said, the softer lines and curved lugs are beautiful.
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Old 20 October 2023, 01:49 PM   #29
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Have you tried the 36mm Patrimony? I also have a 6.5” wrist and the standard VC Patrimony is way too big while the 36mm fits much better. I saw this at one of the boutiques and it is surprisingly nice, very much fits like a tradition dress watch. It will be smaller than the PP, so it really depends on what you’re looking for. Maybe worthwhile to investigate if you haven’t decided.
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Old 20 October 2023, 06:49 PM   #30
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...

Now regarding the 5227 vs the Patrimony, I think I currently lean more towards the 5227. The smaller dial is better for my 6.5" wrists, and I think i could wear it to the office more often than not. And like someone else here said, the softer lines and curved lugs are beautiful.
Have you tried on the 5227? It did look large on my 6.6" inch flat (and wide) wrists. Certainly doable but it will not exactly fly under the radar.

Let us know what you decide...
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