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Old 31 January 2021, 11:09 AM   #1
sambb
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best dress watch < 20k

is the best choice (leather band, classic case), still a cartier tank? i know it isnt high horology. i guess one could get an old calatrava or a patrimony vc.

any opinions on the best dress watch in this range>
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Old 31 January 2021, 11:53 AM   #2
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Old 31 January 2021, 12:05 PM   #3
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What he said
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Old 31 January 2021, 12:17 PM   #4
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Old 31 January 2021, 12:26 PM   #5
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i guess one could get an old calatrava or a patrimony vc.

That is what I did...





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Old 31 January 2021, 02:02 PM   #6
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Vc- hodinkee had nice piece on this very topic
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Old 31 January 2021, 02:04 PM   #7
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Lange Saxonia Thin!
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Old 31 January 2021, 02:06 PM   #8
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"Best" is really a matter of opinion. If you want a Cartier Tank, nothing else will do and it's a classic piece of good quality. I think JLC makes nicer watches but if you're going for gold for a simple dress watch, a Lange, VC, or even a Patek Calatrava may not be that much more money and they all have hand-finished movements and better cases, dials, and hands, generally speaking. Lange followed by VC would be my choice for a dress watch under $20k but the watch has to speak to you.
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Old 31 January 2021, 04:38 PM   #9
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There is no one answer. If you want to spend a lot less than 20k JLC steel dress watches are a great option. In the 20k range I'd go Lange or Patek. VC are nice but tend to be too large for my small wrists. Among in-production watches the Lange Saxonia Thin comes to mind if you like the austere design. Personally I chose a little 3998 Calatrava in platinum many years ago that can still be had for 20k preowned and much less in gold. Small watch but no regrets.
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Old 31 January 2021, 07:29 PM   #10
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I’d have a close look at the Parmigiani Toric.


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Old 31 January 2021, 09:04 PM   #11
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VC fifty six is one of my choices
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Old 31 January 2021, 09:15 PM   #12
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Old 31 January 2021, 09:33 PM   #13
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"Best" is really a matter of opinion. If you want a Cartier Tank, nothing else will do and it's a classic piece of good quality. I think JLC makes nicer watches but if you're going for gold for a simple dress watch, a Lange, VC, or even a Patek Calatrava may not be that much more money and they all have hand-finished movements and better cases, dials, and hands, generally speaking. Lange followed by VC would be my choice for a dress watch under $20k but the watch has to speak to you.
Fully agreed.

Also valid comment below that a lot of the VC dress watches are for whatever reason much larger than they need to be. Sub 38mm the VCs seem hard to beat if the Lange aesthetic is not for you.
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Old 31 January 2021, 11:13 PM   #14
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As said above, all a matter of taste. Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, consider the Breguet Classique with the enamel dial.
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Old 31 January 2021, 11:17 PM   #15
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Lange Saxonia Thin. By a wide margin. It can be had less than 15k and perhaps as low as 12k.
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Old 31 January 2021, 11:18 PM   #16
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As said above, all a matter of taste. Since it hasn't been mentioned yet, consider the Breguet Classique with the enamel dial.
Beautiful watch!
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Old 31 January 2021, 11:18 PM   #17
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Lange Saxonia Thin!
Yup.
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Old 1 February 2021, 01:28 AM   #18
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SS JLC would be my choice followed closely by a Strap Grand Seiko.
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Old 1 February 2021, 01:47 AM   #19
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JLC. Reverso, Ultra thin, Moon Phase.
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Old 1 February 2021, 02:15 AM   #20
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So many choices really. A smaller PP, most JLC's possible, ALS Saxonia or similar, VC on the table, IWC at your leisure....
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Old 1 February 2021, 02:39 AM   #21
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I'd say Jaeger LeCoultre Master and Reverso or IWC Portugieser
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Old 1 February 2021, 04:04 AM   #22
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Concur with what Justindo wrote.

I'd suggest you take all the brands/models mentioned in this thread, narrow them down to a subset of models that you like a lot, and then post again to ask for opinions about that subset. You can get a really nice Breguet, Cartier, JLC, Lange, etc., for that price.

Specific to Lange, since that's what I'm most familiar with: Because you're open to preowned, I'd add a Lange 1815 (or 1815 Up/Down) into the mix, as well as a Langematik (with or without Big Date). You can even get a preowned Lange 1 for around that price, if you like the asymmetry of a Lange 1, though those are probably a bit more than $20K now.

And I used to think these Chopards were the best bang for my buck, but you can't easily find them anymore.
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Old 1 February 2021, 10:58 AM   #23
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Concur with what Justindo wrote.

I'd suggest you take all the brands/models mentioned in this thread, narrow them down to a subset of models that you like a lot, and then post again to ask for opinions about that subset. You can get a really nice Breguet, Cartier, JLC, Lange, etc., for that price.

Specific to Lange, since that's what I'm most familiar with: Because you're open to preowned, I'd add a Lange 1815 (or 1815 Up/Down) into the mix, as well as a Langematik (with or without Big Date). You can even get a preowned Lange 1 for around that price, if you like the asymmetry of a Lange 1, though those are probably a bit more than $20K now.

And I used to think these Chopards were the best bang for my buck, but you can't easily find them anymore.
Winner... This sublime reference has been on my list for a while. Dress watches are not my wheelhouse, but I would love to find a good example of the 1.96.
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Old 2 February 2021, 03:24 AM   #24
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Concur with what Justindo wrote.

I'd suggest you take all the brands/models mentioned in this thread, narrow them down to a subset of models that you like a lot, and then post again to ask for opinions about that subset. You can get a really nice Breguet, Cartier, JLC, Lange, etc., for that price.

Specific to Lange, since that's what I'm most familiar with: Because you're open to preowned, I'd add a Lange 1815 (or 1815 Up/Down) into the mix, as well as a Langematik (with or without Big Date). You can even get a preowned Lange 1 for around that price, if you like the asymmetry of a Lange 1, though those are probably a bit more than $20K now.

And I used to think these Chopards were the best bang for my buck, but you can't easily find them anymore.
Would that be appropriate?
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Old 2 February 2021, 04:26 AM   #25
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Concur with what Justindo wrote.

I'd suggest you take all the brands/models mentioned in this thread, narrow them down to a subset of models that you like a lot, and then post again to ask for opinions about that subset. You can get a really nice Breguet, Cartier, JLC, Lange, etc., for that price.

Specific to Lange, since that's what I'm most familiar with: Because you're open to preowned, I'd add a Lange 1815 (or 1815 Up/Down) into the mix
Better yet, go see them, try them on.
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Old 2 February 2021, 04:33 AM   #26
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Patek 5107 or 5127, Lange 1815 or Saxonia.
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Old 2 February 2021, 06:19 AM   #27
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+1 for JLC!
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Old 2 February 2021, 11:25 AM   #28
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Check out the Girard Perregaux 1966 line. Great watches and you can get some good discounts.


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Old 2 February 2021, 11:28 AM   #29
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Would that be appropriate?
I love this one, I think you can get brand new for around $26k.
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Old 2 February 2021, 11:47 AM   #30
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Saxonia line from A Lange & Sohne
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