ROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEXROLEX
9 September 2024, 07:54 AM | #1 |
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Rolex 6536/1 or Daytona 16520
Hi Everyone
I am in the middle of a difficult decision as I have been offered these two nice references. What would you choose, and why? which more collectable? Prices approx 1. 16520 1996 (no papers) usd 20k 2.- 6536/1. Outsanding glossy gilt service dial usd 16K Thank you so much fopr your opinions Regards |
9 September 2024, 08:48 AM | #2 |
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Such different watches. You don't have a preference?
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9 September 2024, 08:55 AM | #3 |
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I have a mahoosive bias so I’m always going to say Daytona ..
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9 September 2024, 09:06 AM | #4 |
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Daytona for me - less headache and it has its' original bracelet. Black dial 16520s look phenomenal. For me, the best Daytona.
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9 September 2024, 09:48 AM | #5 |
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Well, actually this is the problem, I like them both, so different but so charming.
Thanks for your reply |
9 September 2024, 09:49 AM | #6 |
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Yep, 16250
Daytonas's black dial is really attractive. Thank you! |
9 September 2024, 09:51 AM | #7 |
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Thank you, Bazil!
Regards |
9 September 2024, 10:28 AM | #8 |
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I do not have a 4/5 digit Daytona, so no reference in comparison. I do own just a few 4 digit subs to include the 6536/1. I wouldn’t turn away a good deal on a vintage Daytona, but it would likely be a safe queen.
This really depends on if you wear it. It’s hard enough keeping the subs going with parts, and service. Maybe wrong, but it may be more difficult to keep the Daytona up to snuff as it gets older. My vote is the Sub, I have seen 5 digit Daytona’s in the wild, I never see no crown sub survivors in the wild. Great problem to have none the less. Whatever you choose will be super cool! Cheers, Jim
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114060, 116010lv, 126710BLRO, 126600, 126610, 116600, 8x5513, 4x1675, 2x16610, 2x1680, 16800, 16610LV, 14060M, 16710, 116500, 126500, 124300, 16803, 5512, 114300, 1016, 126618, 2x6536/1, 6205 |
9 September 2024, 10:41 AM | #9 |
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A 6536 at that price is TGTBT (too good to be true) in my opinion
So Daytona is your path methinks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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9 September 2024, 10:44 AM | #10 |
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The Sub has a service dial.
Easy solution in that case - buy both.
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9 September 2024, 10:53 AM | #11 |
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Dan
With just a 2 year run, do you believe an era correct service dial would drop 10k-13k off the market price? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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9 September 2024, 11:03 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Totally respect your view on this, but as these watches age, OEM service parts still make them honest. If the seller is aware, it should be disclosed they are OEM but service parts. Still snagging both would be optimal! Cheers….Jim
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114060, 116010lv, 126710BLRO, 126600, 126610, 116600, 8x5513, 4x1675, 2x16610, 2x1680, 16800, 16610LV, 14060M, 16710, 116500, 126500, 124300, 16803, 5512, 114300, 1016, 126618, 2x6536/1, 6205 |
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9 September 2024, 11:13 AM | #13 |
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In the current soft market, I don't think it's a crazy price for a watch with service parts and no bracelet. I assume that more than just the dial are service parts, and most serious collectors would take a pass on it.
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9 September 2024, 11:20 AM | #14 |
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Thanks. I think with the Tropical pigment issues that came with the galvanic paint, many dials - maybe most dials - were replaced by Rolex.
Then the spidering glossy lacquer issues, too. Fading gilt depth paint, too. My guess is the minority of 6536s still in circulation have original dials. Also agree many other things could be service parts that are replaced over 60+ years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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9 September 2024, 12:00 PM | #15 |
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I have no idea how you would know whether original dials are a minority or majority, that seems like total speculation, but honestly it doesn't matter to me. Certainly some dials have been replaced at service (which is true for many vintage references), but I have seen many 6536 (and other no-crownguard Sub) examples with original radium dials, and those are the ones I would consider buying. I have only handled a few 6536 Subs in-person, and they all had original dials. They weren't terribly glossy, but the dials were in pretty good condition overall.
Anyway, the 6536 is obviously a very desirable reference, but the service parts hurt the value dramatically, IMO.
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9 September 2024, 12:10 PM | #16 |
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Regardless, back to the original quandary the OP has….such cool watches. Don’t know if he is a “serious” collector or just someone who collects vintage. Albeit, this conversation is what makes the Journey/Hobby fun. Lord knows what the future will have on these watches in value or collectability…it is the risk we all take.
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114060, 116010lv, 126710BLRO, 126600, 126610, 116600, 8x5513, 4x1675, 2x16610, 2x1680, 16800, 16610LV, 14060M, 16710, 116500, 126500, 124300, 16803, 5512, 114300, 1016, 126618, 2x6536/1, 6205 |
9 September 2024, 01:28 PM | #17 |
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Many thanks to all of you for your interest in the subject I posted. These discusions make the Forum quite interesting as a source of rich information in the never ending learning. Just a couple of points to clarify regarding the 6536/1. The watch comes with its original oyster bracelet; yes, bezel is not the original to the reference but an original Rolex one. Glossy gilt service dials are hard to find compared to the matte ones. And of course if the bezel, dial, and hands were original to the reference its value would be at least double. Many thanks to Jim,Dan S,77T. Kind regards
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9 September 2024, 02:05 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Yes - thinking only due to the confluence of dial issues. Agree it's speculation. It matters only in the sense of all original valuations being almost twice that of service dialed ones. Agree it's a dramatic factor in diluting prices. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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9 September 2024, 05:46 PM | #19 |
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£16k for a service T25 (early gold rather than white writing and service hands and a stainless rather than original brass bezel etc) on a a/market leather is on the money imho.
Is that S/E lug width as bad as it looks though ....? Personally dials of auto Daytonas do nothing for me - I love manuals though !
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9 September 2024, 09:05 PM | #20 |
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The Daytona hands down. Too many possible issues with the Submariner and if you are not an expert you may have some issues as pointed out in the above posts.
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9 September 2024, 11:26 PM | #21 |
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The Daytona is a no-brainer, and that looks like a nice example with a fat case. It also has more of an upside long term, and at $20K is a relative bargain. In the world of old (and new) Rolexes, steel Daytonas rule.
The collectibility and longterm value of watches with service parts, especially service dials, cannot compare to an all-original watch. |
10 September 2024, 12:18 AM | #22 |
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Wow Greg! You’re really between a rock and a hard place there.
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10 September 2024, 06:01 AM | #23 |
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16520 easily
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10 September 2024, 07:42 AM | #24 |
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The 16520 is the better value, but if I saw these two in the wild, I would be more interested in the Submariner; it’s more appealing to me.
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10 September 2024, 12:38 PM | #25 |
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The only problem with the Daytona is that it’s nearly impossible to read the time due to its messiness : )
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10 September 2024, 01:12 PM | #26 |
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Again, thank you so much for all your comments / opinions/ advice, they are very useful to me. I am a bit seduced by the 6536/1 as it has a stunning dial, not often seen in such a splendid condition, bezel is a later original rolex, and the watch comes with 7206 bracelet oyster form dated 2/65. Thanks again. Kind regards
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10 September 2024, 01:14 PM | #27 |
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Absolutely, and to me, it is a small subject.
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10 September 2024, 01:27 PM | #28 | |
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Quote:
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11 September 2024, 03:07 AM | #29 |
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Hi Jim! I did not know the OP meaning! Well, I am a collector, and do my best LOL.
Kind regards |
11 September 2024, 05:56 AM | #30 |
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Hands look service to me-curved, not flat. OP, can you post UV pics of the Sub?
I’d still choose the Sub. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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