Question about Akrivia movement

[Cozmopak]

This topic has come up on another forum, and I thought I’d canvas the group here to see what insights I may unearth.

Look at the photo of the Akrivia movement below and observe the peaks and troughs throughout the bridges that have been finished with a cotes de Geneve. The argument is that this is a poor execution of the technique, indicative of using cheap abrasive papers and uneven pressures. When the technique is applied correctly, such as in Dufour and Voutilainen watches, the surface of the bridges is completely smooth.

Thoughts?

[bigfatpauli]

I was also emailing a friend watch maker about this. From my email to him:

That photo is of "N*00p" which isn't a platinum watch, despite the "P" - it's the steel prototype. If you look at the larger photos on the page of the back of the watch:

https://monochrome-watches.com/akrivia-chronometre-contemporain-baselworld-2018-price/


You'll note that there are no markings on the case back. The dials on both the "white metal" and gold watches are totally flat. If you search for images of customer delivered watches the sub-seconds dial is a separate part and recesses.

What's interesting is if you look at images of the movement in the Chronometre Contemporain, most are of the "N*00p" - all the same prototype. FYI, the N*00 is the serial number.

Here's an image of both the steel prototype (left) and the real production model in platinum (right):



There is a difference in printing and, of course, the sub-seconds dial. Most pictures you see on-line are of the still prototype as it was shipped around for press photos and is used when people want to view the watch. Only 32 of the platinum will ever be delivered: I don't know how many he's made to-date. I know it sounds like I've had a few sips of the Kool-Aid, but more what I am trying to say is that, yes, that what in that photo is bad, absolutely, but it is also of a prototype and not the finished product.

Having said that, I did some more digging today thanks you pointing that about again, and in light of Lange now not being what I used think they were. It is hard to find a good photo of one as they are so rare, but I did find this:

https://www.acollectedman.com/produc...06-steel-watch

Hard to tell if it is better... In some images it looks really good, others less so, but the images are fuzzy so I'm not certain. It definitely begs questioning and I will be sending them an email about it.

As for how how the striping is done, see:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scML...youtu.be&t=374


It doesn't look like a traditional wooden cupped disk, and it's not the usual spindle with sandpaper on it either but that seems a little too pedestrian for a brand like Akriva. It has been suggested that is that this is a small cylindrical shaped abrasive, essentially like a grinding wheel of some kind. (To quote and paraphrase a watchmaker friend of mine)

What interesting is we are seeing this level of poor finishing on some Langes: but those are production for sale models. This is a prototype.

[Cozmopak]

Thank you for the reply. If you hear from them, please share their response!

If you look at the Collected Man photograph, I think I see obvious areas where the anglage is distorted at the junction of two planes of cotes de Geneve, implying that there is indeed a trough present. A sideprofile view would have been more revealing.

[bigfatpauli]

Agreed. It is just too hard to tell from that photo to definitively call, in my opinion.

Certainly more research is needed.

[kunlun]

If you talk to Dufour owners, they'll tell you there are variations in the level of finishing even on Dufour's work. Hand work isn like that.

As for Rexhep's prototype, look at his interviews from the time, I think he mentioned a further level of work to be done on the pieces for sale, but you can see for yourself.

[Cozmopak]

Originally Posted by kunlun

If you talk to Dufour owners, they'll tell you there are variations in the level of finishing even on Dufour's work. Hand work isn like that.

As for Rexhep's prototype, look at his interviews from the time, I think he mentioned a further level of work to be done on the pieces for sale, but you can see for yourself.

I completely agree that some level of variation is to be expected for a handmade object, even some level of imperfection.

To me, the level of imperfection that is illustrated in the above photographs is beyond what is acceptable for a watch in this price range. Everyone will have different threshholds.

I don’t mean to disrespect the watchmaker by bringing this up, but I also feel like there are times when a watchmaker reaches a level of hyped recognition when blind faith in their work detracts from the enjoyment of the collecting hobby.

[bigfatpauli]

Originally Posted by Cozmopak

I completely agree that some level of variation is to be expected for a handmade object, even some level of imperfection.

To me, the level of imperfection that is illustrated in the above photographs is beyond what is acceptable for a watch in this price range. Everyone will have different threshholds.

I don’t mean to disrespect the watchmaker by bringing this up, but I also feel like there are times when a watchmaker reaches a level of hyped recognition when blind faith in their work detracts from the enjoyment of the collecting hobby.

I agree. The level of finishing seen on the prototype is no where near the standard it needs to be on the finished product.

[kunlun]

Atelier de Chronometrie is a small independent I would look up for top finishing and total freedom in designing a custom watch. You can even design and order a dial from Kari for their watches, which are modeled on classic Omega chronometer movements from the 60s, iirc.

[Cozmopak]

Yes, some of their work is attractive.

I personally prefer Pascal Coyon as an Omega movement modifier.

[AnalyseLindsay]

Fantastic rounded anglage and inside edges on Kunlin pic

[kunlun]

Originally Posted by AnalyseLindsay

Fantastic rounded anglage and inside edges on Kunlin pic

Yes! All the watchmaking is done without CNC machines and each piece is unique and totally customizable. You cam see why I'm interested!