In search of a 14060 Sub

[wait49]

Starting my search for a Sub ref 14060 thought i'd join here and get some knowledge. First Rolex

[Tools]

Good choice.

MSub8.JPG

[Dan S]

Did you have a question?

[watchnwine]

My 14060M is one of my very favorites but wondering why you are targeting? If you give us some thoughts, we can help you with the nuance. There are many subtle variations that makes the reference so interesting but also worth knowing so you can target your search.

[rmagoo57]

Keep reading. After reading a couple thousand threads/posts on the 14060/14060M here, you'll figure it out.

[1William]

Plenty to be had. Look at our Trusted Sellers. Complete set. Buy the seller.

[996marty]

As Dan mentioned anything in particular that you are unsure of?

[Easy Rhino]

I have a two decades long love affair with my 14060M bought new by my wife in Waikiki in 2005 and gifted to me on the occasion of our 25th wedding anniversary (I'm a retired navy submariner). It's the two line dial and has been essentially perfect through nearly 20 years of daily use including rough abuse which my Rolex SA advised me not to subject it to. To me it's the perfect watch. I think that they're indestructible and the perfect tool watch.

[77T]

One thing I would offer is to really know your own personal tastes first.

Since you posted in vintage, do we guess right that you want an older version at least 25 years old?

If so, please be aware of the changeover year when Tritium was replaced by LumiNova. A Tritium dial will have a dial that doesn't glow in the dark. A LumiNova one will glow even if it is 20 years old. So if you want it to glow in the dark, do NOT choose one with this marking in the dial...


I agree with others who suggest a full set, hopefully with a sale date of 1999 or newer.

Last thing - if size matters due to a large wrist. Try one on in real life. If there are pawn shops around you who have Rolexes in the showcase - try one on. The lack of a date sometimes gives a perception of a smallish dial.

One more last thing...there's always "one more thing" in Vintage... please be cautious about posting a lot of links from eBay or Chrono24 or websales (and god forbid, never CL).
Too much of that triggers some unwelcome comments.

Just be judicious and happy hunting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[wait49]

Just basic knowledge, whats the pricing? Polished? extra links, etc.
Interesting, I work with a retired Navy submariner

[brandrea]

Welcome to the forum … and the rabbit hole that is the Submariner

[Kingcobb]

Originally Posted by 77T

One thing I would offer is to really know your own personal tastes first.

Since you posted in vintage, do we guess right that you want an older version at least 25 years old?

If so, please be aware of the changeover year when Tritium was replaced by LumiNova. A Tritium dial will have a dial that doesn't glow in the dark. A LumiNova one will glow even if it is 20 years old. So if you want it to glow in the dark, do NOT choose one with this marking in the dial...


I agree with others who suggest a full set, hopefully with a sale date of 1999 or newer.

Last thing - if size matters due to a large wrist. Try one on in real life. If there are pawn shops around you who have Rolexes in the showcase - try one on. The lack of a date sometimes gives a perception of a smallish dial.

One more last thing...there's always "one more thing" in Vintage... please be cautious about posting a lot of links from eBay or Chrono24 or websales (and god forbid, never CL).
Too much of that triggers some unwelcome comments.

Just be judicious and happy hunting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The opposite side of that coin is that if you want a 14060 that shows patina on the hour markers and such, find a 1997 or 1998 year one.

[brandrea]

Originally Posted by Tools

Good choice.

Attachment 1452918

That picture never gets old

[yowlie]

I have an old tritium holes case unpolished one that I have worn for years on a NATO. Great watch. I had Alexyon convert it to a destro so the crown would not dig in my wrist. I sold it once on TZ to a Secret Service guy then bought it back on TZ for the same price because it was small for him. When I bought it, it was still a pretty reasonable price for an indestructible dive watch. I think I paid 2250 and sold the bracelet for 500. I have used it for lots of ocean activities like SCUBA, open water swimming, and spear fishing. Now they are coming down into the 7k's.

[Dom9]

The Destro modification sounds interesting. Assume on a non-Date, you effectively just rotate the whole watch and then move the dial feet, so the dial is 'the right way up'? In which case, fairly painless to reverse it if needed.

[wait49]

Originally Posted by 996marty

As Dan mentioned anything in particular that you are unsure of?

Yes, i notice some say, Swiss Made on the dial, some just say Swiss?
Whats up with that?

[Gerry62]

tritium or Luminova it doesn't matter. 14060 is always an excellent choice

[yowlie]

yeah pretty easy. You can re-weld the dial feet or use dial tape.

Originally Posted by Dom9

The Destro modification sounds interesting. Assume on a non-Date, you effectively just rotate the whole watch and then move the dial feet, so the dial is 'the right way up'? In which case, fairly painless to reverse it if needed.

[wait49]

That is a cool picture. Wheres the anchor from?

[swish77]

Originally Posted by wait49

That is a cool picture. Wheres the anchor from?

The anchors used to come from Rolex, as an accessory when you bought a Sub. They stopped about 20 years ago.

[Funkle]

Originally Posted by wait49

Yes, i notice some say, Swiss Made on the dial, some just say Swiss?
Whats up with that?

This information is easily found on the internet. Specifically, this forum!

"In 1999 a Crown is etched on the sapphire crystal at 6. The same year, the luminous compound of the dial and hands is switched from Tritium to Luminova and SuperLuminova."

Swiss - T < 25 = Tritium
Swiss = Luminova
Swiss Made = SuperLuminova

[SOG DIVER]

Keep in mind that there is a relatively important difference between the 14060 reference and the later 14060M. The 14060M has a full balance bridge and a Breguet overcoil, and about 2007 Rolex decided to submit some of the 14060M movements to the COSC for certification as chronometers.

An excellent 14060/14060M article by Paul Altieri, CEO of Bob's Watches is entitled "Last of the Best".
It is recommended reading for those interested in these discontinued Submariners. The article is also easily found on the internet.

The 14060 series were some of the last Submariners with drilled lugs, right up through the last iteration. A very useful
feature for a tool watch that may see regular use of a NATO band.

[wait49]

Overall Excellent Condition! Freshly Polished Case & Bracelet! Beautiful High Polished Chamfers / Pressure Tested & Passed!
Original Rolex Sapphire Crystal (Sapphire Crystal Contains Hairline Scratches) / Tight Bracelet!
Timegrapher Shows Amplitude 278 +2s/d – Running Within COSC Specification!
Includes Inner & Outer Rolex Boxes, Warranty Papers, Manual, Your Rolex Oyster Booklet, Rolex Service Card Dated 07-22-2013, & Green Leather Wallet Holder!
Thats a lotta words!!

[wait49]

is polished a bad thing? and why?

[wait49]

2 line or 4 line with rehaut/

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by wait49

is polished a bad thing? and why?

It depends. We need photos in order to help you.

[Apdl]

I am a big fan of the later production dates like this 2008, 4 lines of text, and the engraved rehaut
https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/rolex...7_EwW9cw&pos=9

[yowlie]

Originally Posted by wait49

is polished a bad thing? and why?

It is really a matter of opinion/OCD. I hate polished watches and believe that nothing can destroy a Rolex except a local (now ebay) watchmaker with a buffing wheel. You can always make a watch look new, but there is only one way to make it look old. But does it really matter? Down the road, maybe. Between two watches, one unpolished, a collector will take the unpolished.

[Funkle]

Ive seen a few 2 liner Subs for sale listed as a 14060 with a Tritium dial and 3130 movement. Are they misrepresented or possibly had the movement replaced?

[Funkle]

Typo?