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#1 |
TRF Moderator & 2024 SUBMARINER Patron
Join Date: May 2007
Real Name: Larry
Location: Mojave Desert
Watch: GMT's
Posts: 43,379
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Case-back Engraved - Let's Take It Off !!
Periodically we get asked what to do with an engraved case back watch.. Well, there are lot's of answers..
One of those answers, is to take it off yourself.. Here is a simple method.. First we need a candidate. This one should do nicely. I have already lined up the appropriate tools and taken the bracelet off, as well as begun to organize: CaseEngrave1-1.jpg This almost 10 year old watch has a name that was nicely done... not too deep or ornate... perfect for the DIYer: CaseEngrave2-1.jpg I'm going to use a flat 1/4 inch thick piece of flat plate aluminum...but a granite counter or a piece of glass, or even a polished desk, although it may mar the wood, will work just fine. I have placed a piece of 80 grit aluminum oxide paper, or 120 grit for a finer finish, on the surface plate; this particular type has a sticky back to help hold it in place, but that isn't really necessary. CaseEngrave3-1.jpg Place the watch squarely on the paper. You can see here that the lugs should not touch the paper, only the case-back. pressing lightly but firmly, the watch is moved in a back and forth motion with no wiggle or swirl so the grain stays straight, checking every so often to check our progress. 80 grit will take a lot off, so be careful; 120 grit is slower but may leave a more factory finish, or you can use up to 800 grit depending on how you like the finish.. CaseEngrave4-1.jpg After only a minute, the engraving is completely gone. You could use a finer grit now (or you could have started with 120 grit, etc); to eliminate the grain left. I am going to leave it just like this because I know that after it has been worn for a few days, the movement of the watch back on the wrist will soften the work we just did, and make it almost indistinguishable from a brand new piece... . CaseEngrave5copy.jpg Finally, put back together: EXPCasebackcopy.jpg
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(Chill ... It's just a watch Forum.....) NAWCC Member Last edited by Tools; 13 April 2021 at 01:52 AM.. |
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#2 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Real Name: Mr. Bill
Location: South Florida
Watch: 16610
Posts: 6,148
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You are one heck of a DIY'er - with a lot of courage. If it did not work as planned you would be OFUDIY'er.
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#3 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Scandinavia
Watch: ♛
Posts: 1,330
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Very nice! Thanks for the pictorial.
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#4 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Real Name: Phillip
Location: Alabama
Watch: Triple 6 SD
Posts: 1,720
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Nice work. Thanks for the tip.
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#5 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Real Name: Craig
Location: Seattle-ish, USA
Watch: GMTIIc, AK, LVc
Posts: 7,022
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Very informative, Larry.
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#6 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2010
Real Name: Nick H.
Location: Amherst, NY
Watch: me flip
Posts: 1,901
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What kind of grit can be used for a brushed finish like on the band or top of the lugs? is it the same 80-120? Great tip. I have been looking at bergeon? brushing pads but if simple sand paper works i will definitely try that first. Thanks!
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#7 | |
TRF Moderator & 2024 SUBMARINER Patron
Join Date: May 2007
Real Name: Larry
Location: Mojave Desert
Watch: GMT's
Posts: 43,379
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Quote:
the bergeon brushing pads are simply known grits on a sponge back. You can get sponge backed sanding pads at your home improvement store.. You need to experiment with a couple of grits to get the finish you like.. I like the 120 grit finish, but 180 is a good look too and a little finer grain.... ![]()
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#8 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 2,615
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It would not have occurred to do that, but from now on I will not shy away from watches with engravings on the case back. Thanks.
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oztralia
Watch: Rolex, SINN
Posts: 618
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nice, you're the man larry!
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#10 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Australia
Posts: 4,688
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Thanks for the tutorial Larry!
Out of curiosity, would the engraving on the COMEX caseback in link be a light engraving easily taken off using the method above or is too deep? http://rolexpassionreport.com/4005/m...and-sothebys/#
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Last thing I remember, I was Running outta sight I had to find the passage back,To the place I was before. ’Relax,’ said this Rolex place,We are programmed to receive. You can checkout any time you like, But you can never leave! |
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#11 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Real Name: Nikos
Location: Florida
Watch: Rolex GMT 16750
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I have seen case backs with very deep engravings fixed easily with a laser welder filling it in and then polishing flat. Engraved case backs are not a hard fix some just cost more than others to do. Larry's fix above works with most and as he showed came out nice.
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#12 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dallas, GA
Watch: Rolex GMT Master
Posts: 74
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If it won't be seen as a hijack of this thread I could post some pictures of a tool I made to do this job.
I just removed the engraving on a datejust back that would not lend itself to the method Larry used on the watch in this thread because the back sits too far in and the lugs would get sanded. I have it on my bench ready for overhaul so I made a holder for the back and turned the engraving off on my lathe then sanded it and re-established the grain with a wheel designed for that purpose, for Rolex watches. I was sweating bullets trying to take a little off at a time just enough to remove the engraving. Looking at it with doctors surgical loupes makes it look like you're taking off a lot more material than you really are. I measured it before and after and I took off a mere .004" and it turned out perfect. Although the job is done, I can show how I did it and the little fixture as it may be helpful to someone else someday. It could also be used as a holder for the back and used in the same sandpaper manner as Larry did his caseback. So if it will be ok, I'll post some pics tomorrow. |
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#13 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Real Name: Brian
Location: Hamilton, MI USA
Watch: My beloved TT DJ
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Thanks.
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#14 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dallas, GA
Watch: Rolex GMT Master
Posts: 74
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I actually misspoke about doing this job the way Larry did because I was going from memory. I went down and put the back on the case and the lugs will clear nicely after all, sorry bout that mistake.
Here are a few shots; the one on the left is the holder I made just for the case back of this particular watch and so I wouldn't forget what it was made for in the future, I hand engraved what it was for on the side. It serves as good lettering practice as well. The one on the right is just a quick and dirty movement holder but I machined the inside step and rim to a dimension to allow the movement to sit down in it with the dial on yet with enough clearance to allow the sweep second hand to go round without issue. The engraving on it however, was sloppy at best, I was in a hurry to use it so the lettering this time suffered as a result. Not important for its use. The rest is with the back held in by four drops of super glue that I'll release with acetone when I'm done and simply pop the case back out of the jig through the hole I made for this purpose. The ID is an exact fit with absolutely no slop and being made of aluminum it won't pose a danger of harming the threads. The scothbrite wheel I obtained from CasKer and it puts a proper grain pattern back on case parts although I need to hit this one a little more then polish around the edge to finish up. The method that Larry used is more safe in practice if you're not used to doing things like I did. The engraving on this case back covered the entire circular area with a lot of text about retiring from IBM and some sort of club and was cut deeper than the one in Larry's case. His way is a lot easier if you have the time and things are relatively shallow. By the way, the watch case is a 16030 datejust with a 3035 movement. |
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#15 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Real Name: Ken
Location: toronto
Watch: 18K YG Day Date
Posts: 2,985
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Larry, Great job!
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#16 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: chicago
Watch: yachtmaster
Posts: 28
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wow, very helpful !!
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#17 |
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2011
Real Name: Mickey®
Location: Atlanta, GA
Watch: Swiss Made
Posts: 5,801
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Never would have guessed!
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#18 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: NC
Watch: GMT & a Jubilee
Posts: 669
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I will be trying this.
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#19 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Real Name: Tom
Location: Kauai
Watch: 1675-1680-16750
Posts: 3,346
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Excellent now I will not shy away from a watch that had an engraving on the backside. I know I can do that no problem and not scared to try it. Thank you Larry!
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#20 |
2024 ROLEX DATEJUST41 X2 Pledge Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: ATX
Posts: 2,885
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I like engraved CB watches, yall shy away, they are much cheaper and have a character and story to tell
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#21 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Accra
Posts: 11
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#22 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Real Name: Jason
Location: Northville, MI
Watch: Datejust 41 Blue
Posts: 79
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Nice to know-thanks!
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#23 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Real Name: James
Location: Mississippi
Watch: Sea dweller
Posts: 2
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First time posting but been reading awhile!
I just purchased a sea dweller for cheap. Only thing wrong with it was heavy engraving on the back. I camped out at the laser welder for about an hour an had everything filled up enough to start stoning down. I high polished it rather than doing the directional grain.. Just my personal taste |
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#24 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 1
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Fantastic Method for Polishing Case-back
Hi,
I just wanted to add that Larry's method for removing engraving from a case-back, also of course works really well for a simple polishing job. I had a 7-year old 14060M Submariner and needed to clean-up and polish the case and bracelet. The watch was on rotation so hadn't been worn much and the movement therefore didn't need a service. I bought 320 grit dry sandpaper from my local auto store. I stuck it securely to a table-top with Sellotape from my local newsagent. Then I removed the bracelet; I always use wooden toothpicks which leave no marks and can also be used to push the spring-bars back in. And I make sure to mask all parts of the watch with Sellotape too - this ensures nothing gets accidentally scratched. So, with the lugs, winding crown and most of the watch-head (except the satin-finish part of the case-back) all wrapped-up with Sellotape like an Egyptian mummy, I placed the case-back flat on the sandpaper and slid it firmly in the same direction (from one end of the sandpaper sheet to the other) three times. It's important to remove (lift) the watch straight upwards when you finish, or you will leave swirls and undesirable scratches. The result is incredible and is as close to factory-new as I have ever seen from a non-machine polishing job. I don't know what grit level matches the original finish but 320 looks and feels very similar. Photo of finished work attached. |
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