Three handed dress watch options
 

Current collection is this -

http://s33.postimg.org/mrxd0y9a7/DSC_8956.jpg


Thinking about trading in my Reverso 976 and IWC Portuguese chrono for a dress watch/ Precious metal watch. I've always like the the PP 5196, but cant really make up my mind. Also still flirting with Lange, AP and VC. Would there be a chance of a new Calatrava line in 2017 with new movements? What would you get?

The options in order of preference are

PP 5196 J/G/R/P
PP 5205R
PP 5296 the clean dial
PP 5227 white dial
VC Patrimony Traditionnelle


PP thanks for voting and giving me some ideas!:thumbsup:

Read this before you choose. I don't have a horse in this race, but I really like the VC and the FPJ.

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...al-dress-watch

P.S. your current collection is very nice IMO.

Any Patek on your list would make a nice edition.

Ah that post got this all started a long time ago. All three are superb. the FPJ is nice but I want to be sure that it can be serviced and fixed for many generations, so I don't want to commit to FPJ. The Lange and VC are really nice! Value retention the the Lange and VC won't be as good as the PP unfortunately.

agreed

5227 hands down.

In defence of the FPJ, I agree that servicing will be expensive, but hey, it's only money. I think the brand will probably survive him, but who knows. Good point.

5205r

5196P ... I love P, and I love the applied Breguet numbers. Simple and elegant.

It seems that the 5205 is a bit out of the range for being considered a "three handed dress watch" - it is actually a complicated watch. I would certainly pick the 5205 over the others listed here. For simple, really 'three handed dress watches', I would go with either FPJ CS PT or Lange 1815 WG. I like PP 5196 G/P as well, but its power reserve is low (less than 48 hours) and has got me away from it so far.

Yeah this was the odd one out.. only the 5205 keeps coming back to my mind despite deciding that I want a simple dress watch - therefore it made it to the poll :) I don't mind the Power reserve as I wind the watch daily if I wear it and if not I don't mind it running out of power as I would rotate one in 4/5.

In this case, to me, it would be a matter of budget. If you'd consider 38K (which is less than a 5205 would cost anyway), I would certainly go with the platinum FPJ CS. Want to spend a dozen K or so less? Lange 1815 WG is the answer. If you want to go with an even lower budget, I would pick the 5196G. The 5196P is super nice, but in my opinion it is too expensive for its size (both the case's and the movement's) and low power reserve. If I were in your position, I'd probably settle with that Lange. Good luck deciding and dont forget to post pictures when you buy the new watch :cheers:

How about this?

Sorry, don't have any macro views... But I think it's pretty nice.

I would either get the 5205r or the VC 87172J the best two options you have there. Get the VC if you want a cleaner dial.

From your list I pick this....

nice ideas! thanks! Will do an incoming as soon as I order/get it

Had the 5227R, but it was missing something, the dial was too plain in the lower half, it looked out of place and empty. it was a very comfortable watch. I went with a 5396R. Between the ones you have listed I like the 5196R

5196G. 37mm, no date, manually wound. Perfect.

As often, I’ll provide the outside choice(s)…

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4214799.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3939466.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4409414.htm – use this one to haggle the price of that one...https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4305361.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id4085809.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3105584.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/glashuett...-id3959798.htm – real outside contender, but still.

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/urbanjuer...-id4032430.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/parmigian...-id3936600.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/langheyne...-id4415328.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3158551.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3061799.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id3058739.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id4224225.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/piaget/al...-id4463699.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/jaquetdro...-id3865527.htm
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/jaquetdro...-id3874992.htm

Vote for it, then. It's the one I voted for, and so far 1 vote.

:thinking:

Loving the Jaquet-Droz! The PF was nice too. Will have to try on a Jaquet-Droz when I can.
GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME SILVER wow!

And don’t forget about Moser either – https://www.chrono24.co.uk/hmosercie...-id3438855.htm

Come again?
Did you mean the £4K-ish steel JD GS Quantieme with the vertical CdG striping on the dial?

sorry no saw a dual time on the website, like the design. I might go for something like the ones you are talking about as my next after the 3 handed. Right now I want to get the basics done. Looking more like a 5196 for now and then something from an lesser known/ independent next

Would a 5711 in PM be considered a dress watch option or does the date window mess that up?

Ah, I’m with you now.

One last attempt to get you to see some sense!! :dummy:

https://www.chrono24.co.uk/bulgari/o...-id4017267.htm

If you like the 5205, I would say go for it. Although it is an AC, it is definitely a dress watch, just not a simple 3 handed dress watch.

Amongst the three Calatravas, I think the 5296 has a clean dial that makes it a beautiful dress watch. The 5227 adds a more modern case design with an officer's caseback, but at a higher price. The dial color of the 5227 is not really white, but more of a cream color. As for the 5196, it reminds you of a vintage Calatrava with the seconds hand at the 6 o'clock position. It is the only Calatrava currently available in platinum. I own the 5227G and the 5196P - they are both nice for different reasons.

Some people can call it a dress watch, some a sports watch...no right or wrong answer. Whoever says otherwise would be lying. IMO, That's one of I
the great thing about the Nautius and 5711, looks good in a Tux and can ALSO take a beating!

I'll plug this one of course, of your exact picks the VC. The way the light reflects off the minute markers is literally magic (5227)