Cannot remove stuck bracelet screws

[craigr]

1978 model 1603, just got it.

I have the correct 1.2 T flat head screw drivers. I have tried the lighter to heat the link, heat gun, and acetone bath (three days). I have tried penetrating oil. I was able to remove two of four stuck screws. Two will not budge and I am trying a bath in lighter fluid mixed with penetrating oil now for a few days.

On one of the stuck screws, I thought there was a lot of "gunk" on the slotted end, so I threw the screws in the acetone bath for several days. Much to my surprise the "gunk" did not come off. I just looked at the screw under magnification and see that on the slotted end the shaft of the screw is pitted and corroded. This must be what has the other two stuck on the opposite end of the bracelet.

Have any of you seen this before? What do you all suggest?

I have broken the tips clean off of three T blade screwdrivers already.

Thank you and kind regards.

[Tools]

There shouldn't be anything on that area of the stud; that is the part that "floats" so the bracelet can move.

Perhaps somebody put sealer or red Loctite there, or there is a dissimilar metal (galvanic) reaction from the wrong screw bars.

Heat is the release method. There is a fixture that holds the bracelet in place (Bergeon 7260) for stubborn screws. Perhaps you can find a watchmaker with one to get things right,

[TimeLord2]

Maybe a little heat on the end with threads. If they used Locktite perhaps they used the wrong type that requires heat to loosen. You could just heat it with a lighter for a few seconds and then try again. When all else fails and you don't want to scratch it, then as Tools suggested, it's time for a watchmaker.

[craigr]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Maybe a little heat on the end with threads. If they used Locktite perhaps they used the wrong type that requires heat to loosen. You could just heat it with a lighter for a few seconds and then try again. When all else fails and you don't want to scratch it, then as Tools suggested, it's time for a watchmaker.

I appreciate the help, but at the start of the thread I said:

Originally Posted by craigr

...I have tried the lighter to heat the link, heat gun...

[craigr]

Originally Posted by Tools

There shouldn't be anything on that area of the stud; that is the part that "floats" so the bracelet can move.

Perhaps somebody put sealer or red Loctite there, or there is a dissimilar metal (galvanic) reaction from the wrong screw bars.

Heat is the release method. There is a fixture that holds the bracelet in place (Bergeon 7260) for stubborn screws. Perhaps you can find a watchmaker with one to get things right,

Yeh there should not be anything at the floating end. But it's not Loctite, the metal is actually pitted and corroded. It's not easy to corrode Rolex SS but this is an old watch.

Thanks for the lead on the Bergeon 7260. I don't own one, but I bet I know a guy who does... I'll ask him.

I messaged the seller for feedback on what they would like me to do as well. I shouldn't have to pay for this as I just bought the watch. I don't mind doing a bit of work myself though, for me that's half the fun.

[craigr]

Originally Posted by craigr

Two will not budge and I am trying a bath in lighter fluid mixed with penetrating oil now for a few days.

I got one more out with the penetrating oil and lighter fluid. It only soaked for three or four hours. The other one is still stuck, but I will give it more time.

The screw I just got out is very nasty. Pitted and corroded all over.

I mixed lighter fluid with the penetrating oil to make the oil even thinner so it could penetrate better. I used to use heating oil mixed with hexane, but I have neither heating oil nor hexane anymore.

[Easy E]

Have you tried the oil (or lighter fluid) bath in an ultrasonic machine? You haven’t mentioned that, so I assume no. You can pick up a pretty decent model from the firearms section at an Academy, or Amazon. I’d give that a try.

[craigr]

Originally Posted by Easy E

Have you tried the oil (or lighter fluid) bath in an ultrasonic machine? You haven’t mentioned that, so I assume no. You can pick up a pretty decent model from the firearms section at an Academy, or Amazon. I’d give that a try.

Interesting idea, thank you. I think I may do that.

The bad news is I tried freeze spray and got it to spin about a full turn, and I could rock it back and forth, but then it would get completely stuck again. The threaded side didn't back out at all though. I think the screw may be broken or the link threads stripped.

On WUS someone suggested vinegar in the head end of the screw and let it sit for about 45 minutes to try and cut the corrosion. I will give that a go tonight before I go to bed.

I have (had?) and ultrasonic cleaner, but we moved in September and I have not been able to locate it since then. I guess I may have to just buy a new one.

[craigr]

Originally Posted by Easy E

Have you tried the oil (or lighter fluid) bath in an ultrasonic machine? You haven’t mentioned that, so I assume no. You can pick up a pretty decent model from the firearms section at an Academy, or Amazon. I’d give that a try.

Just ordered another ultrasonic cleaner. It'll be here Saturday.

[Easy E]

Originally Posted by craigr

The bad news is I tried freeze spray and got it to spin about a full turn, and I could rock it back and forth, but then it would get completely stuck again. The threaded side didn't back out at all though. I think the screw may be broken or the link threads stripped.

You may be screwed....pun intended. Good luck

[craigr]

Originally Posted by Easy E

You may be screwed....pun intended. Good luck

[KatGirl]

When I bought a Tegemented bracelet for my Sinn U-250, I could not remove any screws, no matter what I did. It turned out the factory used industrial strength Loctite, by mistake, instead of the milder formula. In the end, they had to send me another new bracelet. I’ll never forget that experience, because it was literally a blood bath. When I applied all my strength, the screwdriver would slip and gouge my non dominant hand. What a crazy day! Like you, I generally enjoy working on my watches. I used a lot of Neosporin and Band-Aids that day. I also dropped a lot of F-bombs, if I remember correctly. It was very frustrating…

Kat


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[craigr]

Originally Posted by KatGirl

When I bought a Tegemented bracelet for my Sinn U-250, I could not remove any screws, no matter what I did. It turned out the factory used industrial strength Loctite, by mistake, instead of the milder formula. In the end, they had to send me another new bracelet. I’ll never forget that experience, because it was literally a blood bath. When I applied all my strength, the screwdriver would slip and gouge my non dominant hand. What a crazy day! Like you, I generally enjoy working on my watches. I used a lot of Neosporin and Band-Aids that day. I also dropped a lot of F-bombs, if I remember correctly. It was very frustrating…

Kat


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah it’s been an interesting go. I’m not used to failure on projects like this so I’ll plug along a bit more. The new ultrasonic cleaner comes today so I’ll see what that does with the oil and lighter fluid.

Thanks for the kind feedback though. At least I’m not the only one.

On WUS someone suggested I see if the screws are magnetic, and they are. They are rusted it looks like. I’m going to start another thread regarding the authenticity of the bracelet after I work on it some more this afternoon.

[springer]

In regard to your PM to me, you've tried everything that I would suggest. As a note, personally, I always use a heat gun on any of the Jubilee screws before I attempt to remove them. As you are finding out, the head can strip out fairly easily.

[craigr]

Over on WUS forum, BenchGuy suggested this to separate the permanent link along with the screw (link):

Originally Posted by BenchGuy

There is a $pecial tool for opening up the link (the permanent pins are splined). I have had reasonable success doing the same with quality automotive circlip pliers. Once the links are apart and the screw is out, you can press the links back together…you may need to use loctite on the splined pins.
Regards, BG

I just used Husky brand circlip pliers from Home Depot and this worked like a champ! Unfortunately, I tried not to ruin the tool the first time and slipped scoring one D-link. Now, I'll have to sand and polish it out if I want to use it again. However, I then dressed the tipsof the circlip pliers so they were just narrow enough to fit all the way through, and the link came apart with little effort (wish I had done that first, live and learn). The screw was not broken, but I did have to put vice grips on the screw and pliers with fabric on the D to get the screw out.

[Tools]

Both Esslinger and Bergeon have a tool for that. Kind of expensive for a home DIY guy though. But some folks spend 300 bucks for some tweezers.

[alicemia12]

True, Esslinger and Bergeon tools are top-tier, but the cost can be a bit high for a DIYer. It's like spending \$300 on chiffon dresses—sometimes you have to decide if it's worth it for quality or stick to alternatives!
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