Confused with Model Numbers

[lorsban]

Hi guys,

A good friend and Panerai fanatic got me on to Panerai but I can't seem to understand how the model numbers work.

Generally, what I'm looking for is a brushed case/polished bezel, with a steel bracelet (though, I can probably get this aftermarket), with date. Uncluttered dial.

Any ideas as to what model(s) I should be looking at?

thanks,

lorsban

[theloxmyth]

No answer to your question, but hi to you!

[htc8p]

i dont think there is a brushed case and polished bezel. its either all polished or all brushed. and the brushed is usually titanium or ceramic

[NSXsan]

I'm quite sure most of the 1950 casing is Brushed Case and Polished Bezel

PAM312/PAM320/PAM270 and all Steel



---------------

[gummy]

328 would be a good start to look at - clean dial

329 would also work as a stealthy GMT!

Make sure you try on with a bracelet - Panerai bracelets are funky if you have a smaller wrist IMHO.

Good Luck - both are great.

[Monte Cristo]

Originally Posted by htc8p

i dont think there is a brushed case and polished bezel. its either all polished or all brushed. and the brushed is usually titanium or ceramic

Actually not correct. There is one PAM that I know of that has a brushed case and polished bezel combo, it's a PAM297.

I believe there is also a PAM1xx that you can get in that combo, but it comes on strap only. But you can buy a bracelet for it if you want, but bracelet will cost $2-3k.

not the best of pics but PAM297 both on bracelet and on rubber

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by gummy

328 would be a good start to look at - clean dial

329 would also work as a stealthy GMT!

Make sure you try on with a bracelet - Panerai bracelets are funky if you have a smaller wrist IMHO.

Good Luck - both are great.

Thanks for the tip! The 328 is definitely the look I'm after. Does it use an in-house movement?

I had an Anonimo Millemetri with a steel bracelet, I think it looked pretty good. That big chunky look suits the cushion shape well.

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Monte Cristo

Actually not correct. There is one PAM that I know of that has a brushed case and polished bezel combo, it's a PAM297.

I believe there is also a PAM1xx that you can get in that combo, but it comes on strap only. But you can buy a bracelet for it if you want, but bracelet will cost $2-3k.

not the best of pics but PAM297 both on bracelet and on rubber

Very cool!

I was looking at this exact same model in my Montres mag.

[lorsban]

The 299 also looks pretty good! Though I do agree that the 1950 case looks better.

[gummy]

Originally Posted by lorsban

Thanks for the tip! The 328 is definitely the look I'm after. Does it use an in-house movement?

I had an Anonimo Millemetri with a steel bracelet, I think it looked pretty good. That big chunky look suits the cushion shape well.

Yes both are powered by Panerai P.9000 3 day automatic movement.

Another option you could look at would also be 352...

Slightly different dial set up, offering a "brown" dial and gold hands.

For your first PAM you might prefer the 328 vs 352 as the 328 is more "traditional". The 352 "brown" dial and gold hands are very cool in sunlight.

Both 328/352 will offer "sandwich" dial as well (vs painted) and "1950" case.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by Monte Cristo

Actually not correct. There is one PAM that I know of that has a brushed case and polished bezel combo, it's a PAM297.

I believe there is also a PAM1xx that you can get in that combo, but it comes on strap only. But you can buy a bracelet for it if you want, but bracelet will cost $2-3k.

not the best of pics but PAM297 both on bracelet and on rubber

actually, he was correct (mostly).

current production models with brushed SS case/polished SS bezel: 164, 212, 233, 244, 270, 297, 299, 310, 312, 320, 321, 328, 329, 347, 356 and 392.

as to OP's specs, the 299, 328 and 329 all fit the bill, more or less (with 297 and 347 being a bit more busy, dial-wise).

[Monte Cristo]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

actually, he was correct (mostly).

current production models with brushed SS case/polished SS bezel: 164, 212, 233, 244, 270, 297, 299, 310, 312, 320, 321, 328, 329, 347, 356 and 392.

as to OP's specs, the 299, 328 and 329 all fit the bill, more or less (with 297 and 347 being a bit more busy, dial-wise).

I'm confused htcp8 wrote i dont think there is a brushed case and polished bezel. yet you have correctly listed over 20 models that fit this description. How was he correct? Sorry what am I missing here ?

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by Monte Cristo

I'm confused htcp8 wrote i dont think there is a brushed case and polished bezel. yet you have correctly listed over 20 models that fit this description. How was he correct? Sorry what am I missing here ?

whooops! my bad....i thought your response saying "not correct" was to NSXsan's post, not htcp8's.

sorry for the confusion. read too quickly.

[Monte Cristo]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

whooops! my bad....i thought your response saying "not correct" was to NSXsan's post, not htcp8's.

sorry for the confusion. read too quickly.

No problem at all

[lorsban]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will definitely keep an eye out for the 299 and 328. But, more for the 328, since I don't think I want to be paying that much for an all steel watch with an ETA.

What I find odd about Panerai is how they can have a watch with two different model numbers, where the only difference is the strap/bracelet.

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[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by lorsban

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Will definitely keep an eye out for the 299 and 328. But, more for the 328, since I don't think I want to be paying that much for an all steel watch with an ETA.

What I find odd about Panerai is how they can have a watch with two different model numbers, where the only difference is the strap/bracelet.

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A top of the line ETA modified by Panerai is still a good movement and very reliable. Also, any qualified watchmaker should be able work on it.

Regarding strap/bracelet models, one, bracelets are pretty expensive, and, two, if you go the strap route, you'll quickly see why strap addiction kicks in. There are so many straps out there, and changing them up easily changes the whole character of the watch. So, in the Panerai universe, IMO, a strap vs bracelet model is a big distinction.

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

A top of the line ETA modified by Panerai is still a good movement and very reliable. Also, any qualified watchmaker should be able work on it.

Well I suppose there are plus and minuses to consider. For instance, how would this stack up to other watches in the same price range, some with in-house movements to boot. On the plus side, servicing should be a breeze.

Regarding strap/bracelet models, one, bracelets are pretty expensive, and, two, if you go the strap route, you'll quickly see why strap addiction kicks in. There are so many straps out there, and changing them up easily changes the whole character of the watch. So, in the Panerai universe, IMO, a strap vs bracelet model is a big distinction.

Aren't steel bracelets expensive for most makers? Like Blancpain, Cartier, AP, Rolex, who charge upwards of $2k if you buy separately, yet, they don't list separate model numbers like in the case of Blancpain's 50 Fathoms or Cartier (who have a strap/bracelet option for nearly all their watches). I just don't see the point really.

Still, I'd go for the bracelet version simply because it's cheaper than buying the bracelet afterwards and leather/rubber straps are cheap and plentiful outside. And aftermarket straps aren't too bad either.



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[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by lorsban

Well I suppose there are plus and minuses to consider. For instance, how would this stack up to other watches in the same price range, some with in-house movements to boot. On the plus side, servicing should be a breeze.

I don't subscribe to if it's in-house it's inherently better, but, a number of people do. Whatever floats your boat.

Originally Posted by lorsban

Aren't steel bracelets expensive for most makers? Like Blancpain, Cartier, AP, Rolex, who charge upwards of $2k if you buy separately, yet, they don't list separate model numbers like in the case of Blancpain's 50 Fathoms or Cartier (who have a strap/bracelet option for nearly all their watches). I just don't see the point really.

Still, I'd go for the bracelet version simply because it's cheaper than buying the bracelet afterwards and leather/rubber straps are cheap and plentiful outside. And aftermarket straps aren't too bad either.



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IMHO, Panerais are at their "best" on straps, but, if you want a bracelet, too, then, yes, getting one standard is the economical way to go. In fact, one can't put a bracelet on a strap-model PAM after the fact.

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

I don't subscribe to if it's in-house it's inherently better, but, a number of people do. Whatever floats your boat.

Generally, I feel the same way you do but at this price, you gotta look at what you're getting and what everybody else is offering. I mean, at the price of a 299, you're looking at Cartier Calibre, Rolex Exp1 & 2, Jaeger Reverso, Ulysse Nardin Quadrato (have to verify jlc and UN), Omega 8500 Aquaterra and PO and a bunch of 2nd hand icons.

IMHO, Panerais are at their "best" on straps, but, if you want a bracelet, too, then, yes, getting one standard is the economical way to go. In fact, one can't put a bracelet on a strap-model PAM after the fact.

You mean, I can't order one from them? Or are you saying its physically impossible to do so?



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[Monte Cristo]

Originally Posted by lorsban

You mean, I can't order one from them? Or are you saying its physically impossible to do so?

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from memory when I was doing my investigations I kind of remember being told that all the bracelet models can take a strap, but not all strap models can take a bracelet??
although I'll leave this with Cru to answer as he has a better understanding of PAMs

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Monte Cristo

from memory when I was doing my investigations I kind of remember being told that all the bracelet models can take a strap, but not all strap models can take a bracelet??
although I'll leave this with Cru to answer as he has a better understanding of PAMs

Oh yeah, especially if you consider the Radiomir series.

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[harrla54]

Is there a way of knowing the model number by the watch itself? I was given a Panerai Luminor Marina Automatic w/ a black (I thought alligator) leather strap. How can I find out the model number? I love this watch!!!

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by harrla54

Is there a way of knowing the model number by the watch itself? I was given a Panerai Luminor Marina Automatic w/ a black (I thought alligator) leather strap. How can I find out the model number? I love this watch!!!

If its not on the caseback, you'll just have to base it on the description.

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[Bruins7]

I just bought a 328 and i really enjoy it! I was really on the fences of flipping it for a gmt iic or a datejust ii but, I ultimately decided it was too sexy of a watch to let go ;D. It sits high on the wrist especially due to the caseback and the bracelet makes it look a tad bigger but I don't have big wrists and looks fine. Hope you find the panerai for you! 297 is a great piece as well so is the 329!

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Bruins7

I just bought a 328 and i really enjoy it! I was really on the fences of flipping it for a gmt iic or a datejust ii but, I ultimately decided it was too sexy of a watch to let go ;D. It sits high on the wrist especially due to the caseback and the bracelet makes it look a tad bigger but I don't have big wrists and looks fine. Hope you find the panerai for you! 297 is a great piece as well so is the 329!

Ya I like the 328. Classic design, clean dial, in house movement.

The 297 is dual time right? The dial is a tad busy looking for me though so I'm leaning towards the 299. Of course, the 329, 328 are better but they're also pricier so we'll see. Haha!

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[FNFZ4]

The 299 is for you

[Rodentman]

I have a 241 which has a brushed case and polished bezel. It's 40mm which is a "small" Panerai but still a large watch. Leg width is 22mm vs 24mm for the 44mm watch.

My understanding is that the 40mm Panerai CAN use either the bracelet or strap with no modified endpieces. I also heard that 22mm bracelets are scarce, and of course pricey.

FWIW I paid about 1.5k for a G.O. bracelet, but it is truly a work of art, as are Panerai bracelets.

[lorsban]

Originally Posted by FNFZ4

The 299 is for you

Yeah, I know. It seems the most attainable at this point.

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[lorsban]

Originally Posted by Rodentman

I have a 241 which has a brushed case and polished bezel. It's 40mm which is a "small" Panerai but still a large watch. Leg width is 22mm vs 24mm for the 44mm watch.

My understanding is that the 40mm Panerai CAN use either the bracelet or strap with no modified endpieces. I also heard that 22mm bracelets are scarce, and of course pricey.

FWIW I paid about 1.5k for a G.O. bracelet, but it is truly a work of art, as are Panerai bracelets.

I tried the 40mm version. But its not for me. For one thing, I find that its tall for its width - same height as a normal Luminor, I think. So, the 40mm seems more bulbous. That's just my opinion of course, for others it seems to work.

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[Rodentman]

I priced bracelets for the 40mm. New style is ~1.5k. Old style is ~2.7k. I like bracelets, but not sure at those prices. Straps are ~$375. Wow.

I was leery about the 40mm at first but it grew on me, figuratively speaking. I like having something a little different.