14060 Purchase Advise

[Joemannnnn]

Hey Guys,
I'm looking to purchase my first Rolex, and have finally decided, after much turmoil, to stick with this classic. I'd prefer to stick with the luminova dial, so newer than 2000 or so. I have no preference really for 2 line vs 4 line. This also gets the M version for the most part. However there appear to be some P series out there from 2000, with the luminova dial, but no updated movement yet. Thoughts on that? Does it affect price?

Also, You see a lot of watches out there from a large span of years. Any concerns with buying older Rolex watches? It's not the norm for me to be looking to buy anything that's 10-15 years old. The end goal is to find something to keep and pass down to my son one day. Are the older watches good to go? Will I still get good use out of something that's 10-15 years old? Anything to watch for when buying an older one? Or should I stick with something newer? Thanks in advance

[joe100]

A huge percentage of the folks around here have rolex watches that are over 20 years old. You're buying a watch with a mass-produced movement so parts will be available for years to come. Just buy the best condition you can find. And before you ask, box and papers are just things you put in a closet and have to store.

Many folks here wear watches from the 1960s and have no issues.

Once you get it, if it has t had a recent service, get that done and for god's sake, get it pressure tested.

Good luck in the hunt

[dysondiver]

buy the seller ,

[Joemannnnn]

Originally Posted by joe100

A huge percentage of the folks around here have rolex watches that are over 20 years old. You're buying a watch with a mass-produced movement so parts will be available for years to come. Just buy the best condition you can find. And before you ask, box and papers are just things you put in a closet and have to store.

Many folks here wear watches from the 1960s and have no issues.

Once you get it, if it has t had a recent service, get that done and for god's sake, get it pressure tested.

Good luck in the hunt

Thanks for the input. I've been concerned to some degree about having the box and papers, only so that if I need to resell one day, I don't take a huge loss. Trying to sell on my own, with no papers may be tough, no? Other than that concern, I could care less, and it would provide some more options

[joe100]

Originally Posted by dysondiver

buy the seller ,

This, and don't be in a hurry. Just because one watch is 90% what you want and available now doesn't mean that's the one. Patience or you'll be sorry. You're spending $5k+ so it's worth doing it correctly.

[perryj]

Don't rule out a pre 1998 tritium dial, I Actully think those will be worth more than a M model years down the road as they will age and developed patina where as the Luminova models will not. There are thousands of rolexes from the 50/60's that are still running fine and will run fine for years to come, all will likely out live all of us. We aren't talkin throw always timexes here

[joe100]

Originally Posted by Joemannnnn

Thanks for the input. I've been concerned to some degree about having the box and papers, only so that if I need to resell one day, I don't take a huge loss. Trying to sell on my own, with no papers may be tough, no? Other than that concern, I could care less, and it would provide some more options

You said you wanted to hand it down, so it won't matter.

[padi56]

Originally Posted by perryj

Don't rule out a pre 1998 tritium dial, I Actully think those will be worth more than a M model years down the road as they will age and developed patina where as the Luminova models will not. There are thousands of rolexes from the 50/60's that are still running fine and will run fine for years to come, all will likely out live all of us. We aren't talkin throw always timexes here

Agree its possible in many years to come the 14060 with Tritium lume could become the modern day 5513.Age is not all thats important with Rolex watches running wise, I have a few from the 1920s that get plenty of wrist time.As long as they are service they will outlast there owners by many years in most cases.

[77T]

Originally Posted by Joemannnnn

Thanks for the input. I've been concerned to some degree about having the box and papers, only so that if I need to resell one day, I don't take a huge loss. Trying to sell on my own, with no papers may be tough, no? Other than that concern, I could care less, and it would provide some more options

A couple of thoughts starting with the B&P - if you bought w/o B&P then you'd get less if sold later, but you'd also pay less when you bought. So really a wash there. The real huge loss someone takes is when they are in a hurry to sell. And if the person to whom you pass it down goes to sell it after you're gone, they don't lose $$$ that they never spent.

Other thought: buy as new as you can afford since you plan to pass it down. Buying a 10-15 y.o. Sub just puts it 10-15 years closer to "no parts available" for the one you pass it down to. In the long run that will be the issue for the one who inherits it.

Buy the seller, authenticate, verify, get as complete of a set as possible and enjoy it!

[stil]

I have a '93ish 14060. Movement hasn't been an issue. I love the watch. Original everything but has been lightly polished in the past.

It's a great piece and I haven't thought twice about it. The cal 3000 is a champ. Mine runs about -1.5 or so a day.

[Joemannnnn]

Originally Posted by 77T

Other thought: buy as new as you can afford since you plan to pass it down. Buying a 10-15 y.o. Sub just puts it 10-15 years closer to "no parts available" for the one you pass it down to. In the long run that will be the issue for the one who inherits it.

Yes, this is kind of what I was thinking.

[perryj]

Originally Posted by Joemannnnn

Yes, this is kind of what I was thinking.

The literally made 100,000's of subs so lack of parts will not be an issue for many many many years.

Had you rather inherit a vintage sub or a modern one? Every person will answer differently.

[997.2]

Hmm are you sure about that? I think anything with "Swiss made" and "Swiss" (p serial says Swiss, right?) has the newer movement. I have a two liner M model and will never get rid of it. Two lines is so clean and I'm
Happy I picked it.

I don't think it's an issue to be honest. Get one that says Swiss made at the bottom and you'll know for sure. By the way, I'm thinking this watch will outlast me. And I'm
In my 20's. Have no fear.







Great watch

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[perryj]

Originally Posted by 997.2

That's an awesome pic !!!

[Joemannnnn]

Originally Posted by 997.2

Hmm are you sure about that? I think anything with "Swiss made" and "Swiss" (p serial says Swiss, right?) has the newer movement. I have a two liner M model and will never get rid of it. Two lines is so clean and I'm
Happy I picked it.

I don't think it's an issue to be honest. Get one that says Swiss made at the bottom and you'll know for sure. By the way, I'm thinking this watch will outlast me. And I'm
In my 20's. Have no fear.







Great watch

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Beautiful watch! The one I have found is a P series, says Swiss Made, but does not have the M. I googled and found this may be the case for the early P series, but I am by no means an expert on this. Simply found another post with a p series non m watch.

I personally don't think i care, but I guess it would be nicer to have the more current movement to hold me over for the long haul if I had a choice

[bdex75]

I say whatever you do buy the seller and ask for proof of when it was serviced by a competent watch maker, RSC?? If you buy a watch that needs to be serviced immediately you need to factor that into the price. Box and papers probably worth an extra $400 or so to most. Pay for as nice of an example as you can find, but not a silly price for a NIB with stickers safe queen etc if you are going to wear it daily.


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[Joemannnnn]

Originally Posted by bdex75

I say whatever you do buy the seller and ask for proof of when it was serviced by a competent watch maker, RSC?? If you buy a watch that needs to be serviced immediately you need to factor that into the price. Box and papers probably worth an extra $400 or so to most. Pay for as nice of an example as you can find, but not a silly price for a NIB with stickers safe queen etc if you are going to wear it daily.


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Ha, trust me, I need a bargain, so no safe queens here.

I'm looking at some nice no box ones. I guess eventually it may be worth a Rolex service to get the warranty card, that would help down the road I assume if I sell

[perryj]

i have a friend that might have one in the 3,800 range.....pm me if interested.

[SA1]

I was looking just as you are now. I wound up with a 14060m G from around 2010. Unless you are getting a really great deal, and by the way $3800 is a very good price from a reliable seller, or a 2000 or so that was just serviced, I'd suggest a more recent model. But you have to consider the seller, price, age, condition and service history.