New Toy Has Arrived

[Nissanzx1]

Friends- I had seen these generic "Rolex-style" case back wrenches on ebay. I made an offer on one and it arrived a few days back. $81 with shipping. This will be a product review of sorts. Biggest reason I wanted this is to be able to verify authenticity of Rolex watches I purchase for myself or resale to other hobbyists.

First impression was that it was sturdy (heavy) while still having a Chinese feel to it. If that makes any sense? It comes with 6 dies for different sized Rolex watch cases.

Anyway, today I stuck my recently acquired Rolex 1803 in the wrench to investigate how well it worked...

Here are my findings...

The wrench worked well. I made a HUGE mistake and used a die one size too small! I did have some lights marks on the case back from this. I have been lightly hand polishing them, and they are almost invisible now. This watch already had tool marks on the case back.

I was able to find out from the inside case back that my watch was serviced in '74, '76, '84, and '07. Kinda neat!

Would I recommend this wrench to other hobbyists? Yes, but BE CAREFUL that you try all the dies first to determine exact fit. Also, use plastic to protect the watch front.

Hope this helps another hobbyist.

Cheers,

-GH

[silversurfer96790]

Cool, thanks for sharing

[Beaumont Miller II]

I have thought about buying one as well but figured that I would just end up getting myself in trouble. Beware of cross threading a case back and damaging the case back gasket if you venture into uncharted territory.

[swish77]

Very helpful post. Thanks. I was thinking about getting one too. I recently bought one of those rubber-ball case back openers, and it's useless.

[Paul]

Originally Posted by Beaumont Miller II

I have thought about buying one as well but figured that I would just end up getting myself in trouble. Beware of cross threading a case back and damaging the case back gasket if you venture into uncharted territory.

I have an old Clebar chrono in very poor condition that I bought to yield some V72 repair parts.
So far, 3 watchmakers have tried and failed to remove the case-back - it's like the thing is welded on.

The case was a throw-away item anyway so I gave the experts free reign to achieve the desired result.
They've tried traditional case-back removers, oiled the faces where they join, even put it in the freezer overnight.
Two year later that case-back ain't budged

[dysondiver]

Originally Posted by Paul

I have an old Clebar chrono in very poor condition that I bought to yield some V72 repair parts.
So far, 3 watchmakers have tried and failed to remove the case-back - it's like the thing is welded on.

The case was a throw-away item anyway so I gave the experts free reign to achieve the desired result.
They've tried traditional case-back removers, oiled the faces where they join, even put it in the freezer overnight.
Two year later that case-back ain't budged

if you really dont care ,,, hot air gun in the middle of the back till its so hot you cant touch it ,, but heat it quickly so as not to soak heat into the internals ,,, that will expand the case back threads against the case ,,, while its hot bung an ice cube on the back to contract every thing back into size or slightly less , with luck the case its self will be warm , and the back cold, with the difference in sizes , and the minute movement thats loosend all the dirt etc , it should come off , failing that ,,, hammer and chisel ,,,,, failing that ,,, if its stainless ,,, put the case in a vice ,,, weld with a mig gun a bit of bar across the case back , and just graunch it off while its hot ,,,,, pretty ,,, no , but ill bet it will come off.. i can hear the watchmakers cringe as i type ,,, just an idea. needles to say im not a watchmaker ,,, but have to makes a hard master.

[1675-David]

Originally Posted by dysondiver

hammer and chisel ,,,,, put the case in a vice ,,, weld with a mig gun a bit of bar across the case back , and just graunch it off while its hot ,,,,,

easy!!

[dysondiver]

Originally Posted by 1675-David

easy!!

as rough as it sounds , in a few seconds i dont think the heat will soak through and damage the movement , and as you then have the bar welded across it will have enough leverage to rip the threads off weather the case back is loose or not ,,,,,
bit like a ten dollar hooker ,,,, not pretty ,,, but it will get the job done...


if epoxying a nut on gets it off , then it wasnt stuck in the first place ,,,,lol

[Vincent65]

Originally Posted by Beaumont Miller II

I have thought about buying one as well but figured that I would just end up getting myself in trouble. Beware of cross threading a case back and damaging the case back gasket if you venture into uncharted territory.

x2 best to leave well alone! I just wanted to 'look' anyway, but is it worth it…


RE getting the same tightness/torque back if you do take the case-back off; my thought was to mark the case and case-back with a pencil line, and then just tighten back up to line up again. Not very scientific, but at least you would not be over-tightening it, and would probably easily achieve a water-tight seal again, without damaging the gasket. Just a thought.

[CrownMe]

Originally Posted by Beaumont Miller II

I have thought about buying one as well but figured that I would just end up getting myself in trouble. Beware of cross threading a case back and damaging the case back gasket if you venture into uncharted territory.

This is exactly why I don't have one lol it would be nice to have one to check any new watches I purchase but I will leave that to the pros.

I was nervous enough changing the pearl on my snowflake insert.

[dom_]

How do you ensure it is water resistant afterwards?

[Nissanzx1]

Originally Posted by dom_

How do you ensure it is water resistant afterwards?

You do have a good point. This 1803 I wear on leather strap so it never gets wet. However, once you try this exercise you will determine quickly that the case back is not a common failure point as long as it's snug with a gasket.

I would think the vast majority of leaks come from the crown and crystal sides.

Pressure testing equipment would not be in my price range. But it would be cool.

GH

[GedgeDS]

I would suggest maybe using a dust cloth or sylvett to protect the front as stubborn case backs can easily damage the front (the damage will be on top of lugs / side of lugs so will be VERY noticeable).

Gedge

[GedgeDS]

Also, sounds silly but use common sense - when these are serviced they are often in environments that are cleaner than surgical equipment! Latex gloves, don't leave case back off for extended periods or dust quickly gets in and don't flick the rotor!

I opened up a 1680 once to find several fingers prints on the rotor and for some reason the previous owners initials scraped into the caseback (obviously security eh).

[Cc1966]

Some on TRF have epoxied a nut on the case and put a tiny bit of "PB Blaster" at the case cover interface (let it work in) ~ then turn the nut with a wrench.

[BoomerSooner]

Cool toy

[Darlinboy]

You are a brave man!

Buy the tool...$81

Potential cost to Repair/replace damage... $100's

Peace of mind by leaving it to the professionals ... $Priceless.

[cop414]

I think what you're doing is great, I'd just get myself into some very expensive trouble with that tool. A man's got to know his limitations!!

[mr.president1]

Nice!

[Old Expat Beast]

A moderate-sized Rolex collection + case back opener + booze would be a recipe for some very lamentable TRF posts further down the road for me.