(Beginner's) Macro shot of red paint on 126710BLRO's GMT Hand

[daOnlyBG]

Hello all, I'm a novice at macro-photography, and have much to learn. After a little experimenting, though, I was able to get a close-up of the "red paint issue" on the GMT-Master II's GMT hand.

And the issue?

There is no issue. Paint makes a nice "dome" shape that peaks at the arrow.




If anyone experienced with photographing watches closely would like to share tips (especially when managing lighting) feel free to drop a line!

[bmb15]

Hello, nice shot. Which camera and objective you are using?

[Speedbird-1]

Good effort.
What camera/lens are you using?

[dpt.calvin]

Was this taken with a macro lens add-on for a cell phone? Genuine question.

Macro photography is difficult. You’ll want a stable tripod, good lighting, and good glass. Try macro extension tubes if you’re not ready to invest in a true macro lens.

[daOnlyBG]

Originally Posted by dpt.calvin

Was this taken with a macro lens add-on for a cell phone? Genuine question.

Macro photography is difficult. You’ll want a stable tripod, good lighting, and good glass. Try macro extension tubes if you’re not ready to invest in a true macro lens.

It was actually with a Canon T6 DSLR and a 50mm Canon f/1.4 lens, using a couple macro "close up" filter lens. To be honest, I think lighting is way more critical than novices make it out to be. Diffusing the light tends to be a challenge... if I'm not mistaken.

[bmb15]

My first try with a 5513 Submariner

[bmb15]

5513 Submariner (cont.)

[daOnlyBG]

Originally Posted by bmb15

OK, that is cool. I know individual skills/the "guy behind the camera" is a critical component of taking pics like that, but from what I've seen, your pic had to be taken with some powerful lens, no?

[bmb15]

Originally Posted by daOnlyBG

OK, that is cool. I know individual skills/the "guy behind the camera" is a critical component of taking pics like that, but from what I've seen, your pic had to be taken with some powerful lens, no?

Thanks, the difficulty is a good illumination and a macro lens. This specific photo was taken w/o focus stacking, which sometimes helps a lot.

[daOnlyBG]

Originally Posted by bmb15

Thanks, the difficulty is a good illumination and a macro lens. This specific photo was taken w/o focus stacking, which sometimes helps a lot.

Nice. Which lens were you using, if I may ask? Did you need to attach anything to it?

Originally Posted by dpt.calvin

Rather than a close up filter lens, look at extension tubes. Also, focus stacking.

I'll look into extension tubes- thanks. A big problem I seem to be running into is the depth of field. With a 1.4 aperture (?) I tend to not get much depth, but my understanding tells me that if I go for more aperture, I'll need something else to make up for lost magnification. Am I understanding that trade-off correctly? If so, would the extension tubes help "restore" that magnification problem?

[bmb15]

Originally Posted by daOnlyBG

Nice. Which lens were you using, if I may ask? Did you need to attach anything to it?

As a diver I use an underwater camera, which may be a surprise for some here. The Olympus Tough TG-5 which has a macro. Settings: in microscope mode, possibility of focus stacking is very powerful. "Obviously" the illumination and viewing angles are important, to minimise crystal reflections well. I have no professional setup!

[dpt.calvin]

Originally Posted by daOnlyBG

Nice. Which lens were you using, if I may ask? Did you need to attach anything to it?



I'll look into extension tubes- thanks. A big problem I seem to be running into is the depth of field. With a 1.4 aperture (?) I tend to not get much depth, but my understanding tells me that if I go for more aperture, I'll need something else to make up for lost magnification. Am I understanding that trade-off correctly? If so, would the extension tubes help "restore" that magnification problem?

Extension tubes will reduce the minimum focus distance without compromising your glass. The 50/1.4 is a decent lens that Canon engineered. No use in placing , probably, cheap piece of glass (the filter) in front of it.

With macro, you typically want to stay in the range of f/5.6-11. You’ll need a lot more light than you’re used to.

[dpt.calvin]

Rather than a close up filter lens, look at extension tubes. Also, focus stacking.

[Henrimontgomery]

That lume looks like mold! Nice shot.

[bmb15]

5513 Submariner (cont.)

[DCheeta]

Nice shot. Here’s my BLNR’s blue arrow.

[bmb15]

16710 GMT Master II (stick dial)

[bmb15]

Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, full view

[bmb15]

Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, partial view, with laser engraved crown on the crystal, with focus stacking

[bmb15]

Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, partial shallow angle view with laser engraved crown on the crystal, with focus stacking.

The last 3 photos are my first tries for this dial. The sun is a very good and natural light source!

[bmb15]

GMT Hand (16710) photo (1) just taken for this thread, light not optimized, with focus stacking, no tripod.
F5.6 (aperture), 14.4 mm (focal length)

[bmb15]

GMT Hand (16710) photo (2) just taken for this thread, light not optimized, with focus stacking, no tripod.
F5.6 (aperture), 14.4 mm (focal length)