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20 November 2024, 06:38 AM | #1 |
"TRF" Member
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"Upgrading"
Do any members typically upgrade their current reference for a newer version of the same reference? I ask because I sometimes think about going from my 2017 Bluesy to a more current year, but not sure there is enough of a variance between the two. Thoughts? Thanks
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20 November 2024, 06:42 AM | #2 |
2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Real Name: Robert Mills
Location: St Louis, USA
Watch: 118239
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I personally like the case dimensions of the 12 series vs the 11 series subs, so that would be an easy decision for me. The white text vs the gold on your iteration took me a while to get used to; but I like it now as well. Go for it is my vote.
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20 November 2024, 06:47 AM | #3 |
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Real Name: Harry
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Both my Sub Dates are 1166 variants. Compared to the 12 series models I much prefer the 11s. To put it into perspective, if I wasn't lucky enough to score my 11s when they were in production I'd be happy with 12s at MSRP or below. No way would I sell my 11s to get 12s. My 126710 BLRO is perfect for my needs wants and taste. Of all my watches it's the one that hits me exactly right. It's like it was made just for me. I wouldn't part with it for anything. If I was desperate for another GMT Master in the future I would add.
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20 November 2024, 06:55 AM | #4 |
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Location: Arkansas
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Depends, I updated my 116 Daytona to a 126, as I felt it wears a lot better. I don't feel any need to update my 40mm sub to a 41mm, but I did add a 41mm in green.
I would feel no need to update from a 116 to 126 GMT, as they are so similar. |
20 November 2024, 06:59 AM | #5 |
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Thanks, ryanbush...is there a material difference (see noticeable) between the 40MM and 41MM?
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20 November 2024, 09:05 AM | #6 | |
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Real Name: Scott
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Quote:
__________________
Past: 6239 (yes, I know...), 16610, 16600, 116515, 116613LN, 126600, 126711 CHNR Present: 16600, 116509, Cartier Santos Green. |
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20 November 2024, 09:45 AM | #7 |
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20 November 2024, 09:49 AM | #8 | |
"TRF" Member
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Watch: ^^^ for now
Posts: 5,792
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Quote:
However I prefer the gilt text on the 11 series over the white text on the 12
__________________
Past: 6239 (yes, I know...), 16610, 16600, 116515, 116613LN, 126600, 126711 CHNR Present: 16600, 116509, Cartier Santos Green. |
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Yesterday, 01:35 AM | #9 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 155
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20 November 2024, 07:21 AM | #10 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Pacific NW, USA
Watch: Root Beer
Posts: 717
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I went from BLNR GMT "Batgirl" to the CHNR 2 tone GMT "Root Beer" - very much worth the upgrade...
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20 November 2024, 07:36 AM | #11 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: United Kingdom
Watch: Rollie
Posts: 791
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Explorer 36 - I went from 114270 to 124270 because:
- lumed 3, 6, 9 hour markers - used vs. new The later model does feel more robust, but I didn't actually mind the older watch's bracelet with hollow centre links and stamped clasp. The 48h power reserve was also good enough for me. I think I am indifferent about the increased bracelet taper and maxi dial of the later model. |
20 November 2024, 07:43 AM | #12 |
2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member
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Location: NL
Watch: Yachtmaster
Posts: 14,735
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No, I prefer the bulkier look of the 11 series and the newer 32 movement on my GMT is nothing but a disaster.
__________________
Day Date 18238, Yachtmaster 16622, Deepsea 116660, Submariner 116619, SkyD 326935, DJ 178271, DJ 69158, Yachtmaster 169622, GMT 116713LN, GMT 126711. |
20 November 2024, 08:29 AM | #13 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Real Name: Alex
Location: Europe
Watch: A few
Posts: 2,179
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Adding a 126500 to my 116500…. Both white. Will keep both when 12 arrives.
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20 November 2024, 12:50 PM | #14 |
2024 ROLEX DATEJUST41 Pledge Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Real Name: Brian
Location: Nashville
Watch: 16750
Posts: 6,585
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I think I’ve done either way. More recently I went the other direction. My 216570 didn’t do it for me unfortunately. I’ve recently added a 16570 instead which is better for me.
For the 6 digit subs in question though. I think I prefer the 11 series actually with the gold text.
__________________
16750 | 6516(wife’s) | 126334 | 16570 | SBGA413 | SRPE33 | 126610LV |
20 November 2024, 01:34 PM | #15 |
2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member
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Location: GA
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I went the other other way. Sold my 126619 and picked up a 116619 and did the same with the LV sub, 12->11. I had too many verifiable 32 issues.
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20 November 2024, 06:41 PM | #16 |
2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member
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16570 ——> 216570 ——> 226570. Polar. Lime. Movement size.
14270 ——> 214270 m1 ——-> 214270 m2. Size. Lume. 16610LV ——> 216610LV. Because green subs are just so effing sick. Kept both. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
20 November 2024, 06:53 PM | #17 |
2024 ROLEX SUBMARINER 41 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Florida
Watch: Sub, DJ41, GMT
Posts: 8,153
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I’m considering something similar. I might want to upgrade from a 114060 to a 126613LB. I’m not sure it’s the same thing, but I would be going from an older model Sub to a newer model Sub upon doing so.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
20 November 2024, 08:58 PM | #18 |
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Real Name: Travis
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I wouldn't necessarily call it an upgrade but I have gone from a 11xxxx to a 12xxxx on several of my watches.
Same as when I went from 5 digit to 6 digit. |
20 November 2024, 11:02 PM | #19 |
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20 November 2024, 10:58 PM | #20 |
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Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: Stockholm
Watch: Just a Daytona
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I sort-of do the opposite.
I explicitly wanted a "First edition" 6-digit Daytona. The 6-digit Daytona was unveiled in 2000. As you no doubt know, back then (after 1987) Rolex released a new "Serial number" almost every year, where a serial number began with a letter. For example, 1995 the W-serial numbers began; A-serials began in 1999. I think only three times, however, did Rolex release two serial numbers in the same year: 1991, 2000, and 2005. So those "First edition" 6-digit Daytonas have to have a P or K serial. I bought a P-serial on a leather strap, then upgraded to a bracelet K-serial. I love later, more modern Daytonas, but I've no interest in replacing my beloved K-serial for one. |
20 November 2024, 10:59 PM | #21 |
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I have "upgraded" in the past. It depends on a few factors. If the original watch has sentimental value, it will not be upgraded. If the upgraded model as few if any differences I can't see the point. If the watch I currently own is selling for way over what I paid, has little sentimental value, and I can get the newer watch at MSRP I'll do it. I sold a 116610LV and ended up getting a 126710BLRO and 124060 at MSRP. Well worth it.
Conversely I own an Explorer II 216570. It was the first Rolex I bought for myself (my first was a gift). Even if it didn't have sentimental value, I probably couldn't justify the upgrade. |
20 November 2024, 11:14 PM | #22 | |
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Real Name: Peter
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Quote:
__________________
ICom Pro3 All posts are my own opinion and my opinion only. "The clock of life is wound but once, and no man has the power to tell just when the hands will stop. Now is the only time you actually own the time, Place no faith in time, for the clock may soon be still for ever." Good Judgement comes from experience,experience comes from Bad Judgement,.Buy quality, cry once; buy cheap, cry again and again. www.mc0yad.club Second in command CEO and left handed watch winder |
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21 November 2024, 12:54 AM | #23 | |
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Quote:
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126610LV//116508 Daytona YG Black/Champagne 116655 YM40 Everose Oysterflex//126622 YM40 Blue//126600 SD43 126710BLNR//126711CHNR 126334 DJ41 Rhodium/Diamonds//126331 DJ41 TT Wimbledon 124300 OP41 Green//126334 DJ41Mint Green |
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20 November 2024, 11:20 PM | #24 |
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It depends on what I like. I like the 11 and the 12 series Submariner and would not swap one for the other. On the other hand I like the DD II in comparison to the DD40 and would go the other way if that was what I wanted.
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20 November 2024, 11:56 PM | #25 |
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"Upgrading"
Thanks all,
So, suffice to say, using a "back of the envelope" tally, it sounds like the overall sentiment is there isn't really a compelling reason to go from a 2017 to 2020+ version of the Bluesy? Thanks again! |
Yesterday, 01:06 AM | #26 | |
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Real Name: Larry
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Quote:
I traded a black EXP2 for the 22 series when it was introduced b/c I hated the phantom hands. I'm presently considering trading my LV 'so-called mark I' bezel, b/c I think the newer bezels have a much more appealing shade of green (IMO of course). So...is that crazy? Well, to the non-watch population, and probably a good portion of watch lovers, absolutely, 100% batshit crazy, in fact. But, as they won't be coming over to my house to wear my watches, I guess it doesn't matter, does it? |
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20 November 2024, 11:54 PM | #27 |
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It's all in the eye of the beholder. I have moved watches for all sorts of reasons, but, looking at the six digit series as a whole- and heck, even four or five digits, I see it more as trying to find the ideal configuration to fit your eye/lifestyle as opposed to an upgrade.
If it's a Rolex, it's going to be a great watch. |
21 November 2024, 12:25 AM | #28 |
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If thats what you want then thats what you should do.
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21 November 2024, 12:35 AM | #29 |
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I’m thinking of “upgrading” to the 32xx Hi-PO movement cause I think I really need a few more hours of reserve.
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21 November 2024, 12:36 AM | #30 |
2024 ROLEX SUBMARINER 41 Pledge Member
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I "upgraded" my DJII to a DJ41 because I liked the changes they made to the case size and proportions and preferred the jubilee bracelet. Nothing wrong moving from an older model to a newer model of the same watch. Many here have done it.
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