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Old 28 December 2011, 06:07 AM   #1
Arthur Daley
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Why I'm not sure all sports models will go to 42mm

After looking at my GMT IIc today I decided to do an unscientific comparison in total diameter of the watch (including bezel, but not including case width) to my IWC Ingenieur (42mm face) and Panerai Radiomir (45mm). By unscientific I mean that I didn't include a ruler - simply judged sizes with the naked eye.

Including the bezel, the Rolex is about the same size as the Panerai's face and very slim bezel, and quite a bit bigger than the IWC incl. bezel. If Rolex were to increase the size of the face of the Rolex GMT II (or Sub for that matter) it would wear more like a 46-47mm watch - which is very large. I can't see that being appealing to the majority of Rolex buyers, who seem to prefer the more traditional sizes.

Of course, the new Explorer II is 42mm, but its stainless bezel makes it "look" and "wear" smaller than a Sub or GMT II (IMHO). Had the bezel been black (on a black-faced watch, for example), it'd look fairly massive.

So while I was previously sure Rolex will eventually upsize all their sport models to 42mm, I'm now not so sure.

Thoughts?
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Old 28 December 2011, 06:12 AM   #2
RedBaronF2001
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I still think they may slightly increase the case size to accomodate a slightly larger dial. I do wish the supercase models had a slightly larger and less cluttered dial.

I think we'll see a slightly tweaked case in the next refresh. Perhaps Rolex will utilize the slightly larger EXP II case.
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Old 28 December 2011, 07:47 AM   #3
steubi1
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Size depends on size, the size of the watch owner....

If you are tall and have a larger wrist, it's good to have 42mm diameter or even more. I would really like to see two sizes, the classic 40mm (which is best for my 7" wrist), and a 42-44mm diameter for people with larger wrists...

Tom
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Old 28 December 2011, 07:55 AM   #4
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I agree size is only relative to the wearer's arm.
Now the main reason they wont get too much bigger...

1.5 Billion People in China!

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Old 28 December 2011, 08:01 AM   #5
RedBaronF2001
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I agree size is only relative to the wearer's arm.
Now the main reason they wont get too much bigger...

1.5 Billion People in China!

While this is a very valid point, the Chinese are buying up larger pieces from IWC, Panerai, Cartier, Hublot, and AP as if they were giving them away for free.
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Old 28 December 2011, 12:00 PM   #6
DolphinV8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBaronF2001 View Post
While this is a very valid point, the Chinese are buying up larger pieces from IWC, Panerai, Cartier, Hublot, and AP as if they were giving them away for free.
Agree, and they go for the expensive ones too.
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Old 28 December 2011, 08:09 AM   #7
The GMT Master
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I'm almost certain that the Explorer II will be the only sports model going to 42mm. The whole point of the Explorer revamps and giving them unique case sizes was to make them stand out from the rest of the range. The problem with the 114240 was that the 116000 was virtually identical with a better bracelet for a lower price, whilst the old Explorer II was always in the shadow of the 16710. By giving them their own niches, it gives them a more distinct character. Why dilute that?
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Old 28 December 2011, 08:17 AM   #8
petesjag
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They are creating a range of mens watches in which all sizes are available..so for everybody the option from 36 to 44 and Maybe even bigger...the 40mm is the mainstay of the sports models and will always be available..
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Old 28 December 2011, 08:38 AM   #9
Arthur Daley
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The trouble with the "people have dfferent wrist sizes and more and more are buying bigger watches" argument is that dial size ALONE does not make a watch big or small. You have to account for bezel size as well (where the bezel is the same colour as the dial) - that was essentially the point of my first post.

What I was trying to say - probably in too many words - is that my 45mm PAM wears a lot like my 40mm Rolex, due to the size and color of my GMT's bezel - which blends with the dial/face, and creates the illusion of the Rolex being bigger than it already is. So if Rolex grows the dial size, it will APPEAR to become a monster-sized watch.

I have flat, 7.5 inch wrists and love big watches. But I somehow can't see the Sub etc. growing to 42mm, as it will appear on most wrists to be a 46-47mm watch. Maybe that was clear from my first post - in which case I apologize for the "repost"! :)
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Old 28 December 2011, 09:23 AM   #10
GMK
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Nick:

I agree with your observations.

I have a 42mm Breitling Superocean which has a S.S. bezel. This watch looks smaller on my wrist than my GMT-2C.

I also have an Omega SMP 41mm dial with a matching black bezel and this looks to be the largest watch when worn. The black on black dial and bezel blend together when viewed from a distance and create's a much larger looking dial.

My 42mm Breitling with black face and S.S. bezel is my largest watch but when viewed from a distance looks the smallest.
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Old 28 December 2011, 09:31 AM   #11
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Is there another Rolex sports model other than YM that hasn't been updated recently?

Maybe the revised YM will have a non-maxi, 42mm case.....
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Old 28 December 2011, 09:38 AM   #12
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They could make them smaller, to 39mm.
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Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man.
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Old 28 December 2011, 09:48 AM   #13
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The 42's seem to be scaled up for larger wrists, but they didn't enlarge the bracelets. Now the head looks out of porportion. They should have made bracelets a bit wider and maybe thicker. Or, offer a re-designed, larger bracelet as an option or upgrade. It's the first thing I notice, & can't quite get around it.
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Old 28 December 2011, 10:06 AM   #14
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Some good comments above.

This boils down to "Size" -vs- "Presence". A single dimension like 42mm is not enough to accurately depict how a watch will wear.

Factors:
  • All three dimensions. Diameter and Height, and sometimes with or without crown.
  • Dial color. Light colored, especially white, will have give the appearance of larger.
  • Lug width, lug design and how a strap or bracelet will come off the head.


A watch with a LARGER DIAMETER, but SHORTER HEIGHT will wear smaller and be more balanced (i.e. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage 48)

A watch with a LARGER DIAMETER, and TALL HEIGHT will wear large and is nice for big wrists

A watch with a MODERATE DIAMETER, and TALL HEIGHT will wear Bulky and top heavy (i.e. Rolex DeapSea IMHO)
...

Balance of the entire watch is key. Rolex WAS one of the most balanced watch designs out there (16610, 16710, vintage). Now they grew some of their dimensions in ONE direction, and IMHO not uniformly resulting in LESS balanced watches then in the past. Personally, the Deep Sea SHOULD counter its height by growing to 44/45 or getting thinner. Also, the bracelet should be in the 22mm lug size to further balance the design. Same can be said about the new EXPII in some regards. IMHO YMMV
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Old 28 December 2011, 11:15 AM   #15
RedBaronF2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelance View Post
Some good comments above.

This boils down to "Size" -vs- "Presence". A single dimension like 42mm is not enough to accurately depict how a watch will wear.

Factors:
  • All three dimensions. Diameter and Height, and sometimes with or without crown.
  • Dial color. Light colored, especially white, will have give the appearance of larger.
  • Lug width, lug design and how a strap or bracelet will come off the head.


A watch with a LARGER DIAMETER, but SHORTER HEIGHT will wear smaller and be more balanced (i.e. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage 48)

A watch with a LARGER DIAMETER, and TALL HEIGHT will wear large and is nice for big wrists

A watch with a MODERATE DIAMETER, and TALL HEIGHT will wear Bulky and top heavy (i.e. Rolex DeapSea IMHO)
...

Balance of the entire watch is key. Rolex WAS one of the most balanced watch designs out there (16610, 16710, vintage). Now they grew some of their dimensions in ONE direction, and IMHO not uniformly resulting in LESS balanced watches then in the past. Personally, the Deep Sea SHOULD counter its height by growing to 44/45 or getting thinner. Also, the bracelet should be in the 22mm lug size to further balance the design. Same can be said about the new EXPII in some regards. IMHO YMMV
I couldn't have said it better. You do indeed have to factor in the height of the watch.

If they keep the Sub thin it will still wear "small" even for a 42mm watch. My Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a pleasure to wear and is balanced even at 45mm because it is somewhat slim for its size. I have a 44mm watch that feels much larger due to its height.
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Old 28 December 2011, 11:18 AM   #16
Mickey®
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freelance View Post
some good comments above.

This boils down to "size" -vs- "presence". A single dimension like 42mm is not enough to accurately depict how a watch will wear.

factors:
  • all three dimensions. Diameter and height, and sometimes with or without crown.
  • dial color. Light colored, especially white, will have give the appearance of larger.
  • lug width, lug design and how a strap or bracelet will come off the head.


a watch with a larger diameter, but shorter height will wear smaller and be more balanced (i.e. Breitling superocean heritage 48)

a watch with a larger diameter, and tall height will wear large and is nice for big wrists

a watch with a moderate diameter, and tall height will wear bulky and top heavy (i.e. Rolex deapsea imho)
...

Balance of the entire watch is key. Rolex was one of the most balanced watch designs out there (16610, 16710, vintage). Now they grew some of their dimensions in one direction, and imho not uniformly resulting in less balanced watches then in the past. Personally, the deep sea should counter its height by growing to 44/45 or getting thinner. Also, the bracelet should be in the 22mm lug size to further balance the design. Same can be said about the new expii in some regards. Imho ymmv
+2
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