Robb Report Watch Collector Edition

[clenz]

Anyone see the latest Robb Report Watch Collector Edition?

Great articles on Geneva, and how the watchmaking really started there based on Calvinist laws that forbid jewelry - little choice for jewelers but to turn to watchmaking. Now five centuries later the Calvinist mentality is still obvious in their culture (refined discretion).

There are also some excellent articles about VC, PP, Piaget, Choppard, and other top watchmakers in Geneva, but nothing about Rolex. I guess they are too secretive to allow an article about their corporate structure.

There are some interesting reviews of some very high end watches that highlight some of the movement complications and features I have not seen before. If you thought your Rolex was high-end, you should see some of these watches that seem to start @ $150,000 - $280,000.
BTW - Can anyone explain what a tourbillion does and why I need one in my watch?

Very dissapointing that there are no Rolexes reviewed in the collector's showcase. Anyway, good information on the different approaches for movements, some future predictions for the watch industry (lubricant free silicon based movements), and some very cool watches!

[GerardoG]

In simple terms, all mechanical timepieces are affected by gravity, so the position in which the watch is will affect performance within seconds (or fractions of a second) at a time; this is why you can 'fine tune' your Rolex by laying it in different positions at night to gain or loose a few seconds/day.

The tourbillon makes the critical part of the movement turn once a minute so, in theory, that part of the mechanism is never in the same position during several hours therefore resulting in minimal time loss.

The tourbillon is most (if not all) times made by hand and requires of over 150 parts, this is why the prices are steep.

[mretzloff]

Originally Posted by GerardoG

The tourbillon makes the critical part of the movement turn once a minute so, in theory, that part of the mechanism is never in the same position during several hours therefore resulting in minimal time loss.

The tourbillon is most (if not all) times made by hand and requires of over 150 parts, this is why the prices are steep.

I have never understood where people see the justification in the money they spend on a tourbillon. Granted, it's their money, but if you want more accuracy, wouldn't a quartz watch be the better option?

Just my 2 cents...

[GerardoG]

Originally Posted by mretzloff

I have never understood where people see the justification in the money they spend on a tourbillon. Granted, it's their money, but if you want more accuracy, wouldn't a quartz watch be the better option?

Just my 2 cents...

I agree, but it is the pleasure of getting something hand made with amazing detail; we are the same, in a different scale, why do we get a Rolex instead of a ETA based automatic watch? Both are automatic, both tell time, BUT a Rolex is a Rolex. The history, the craftsmanship, the design; so we end up paying thousands more than other mechanical timepieces.

[rocco1109]

Originally Posted by GerardoG

In simple terms, all mechanical timepieces are affected by gravity, so the position in which the watch is will affect performance within seconds (or fractions of a second) at a time; this is why you can 'fine tune' your Rolex by laying it in different positions at night to gain or loose a few seconds/day.

The tourbillon makes the critical part of the movement turn once a minute so, in theory, that part of the mechanism is never in the same position during several hours therefore resulting in minimal time loss.

The tourbillon is most (if not all) times made by hand and requires of over 150 parts, this is why the prices are steep.

Thanks Gerardo. A simple and excellent explanation!

[SS Oyster]

Ok, so what's a minute repeater?

[Singslinger]

Originally Posted by SS Oyster

Ok, so what's a minute repeater?

It's the watch equivalent of a chiming grandfather's clock. When pressed, the buttons on the side will make the watch ring out the time - I believe the minute repeater was intended to help the wearer tell the time at night in olden days, before the invention of luminous paint. The challenge for the watchmaker is to ensure the sound is loud enough as well as pleasing to the ear. Hope this helps!

[cdmackay]

note that the BHI are offering a very reasonbly priced flying tourbillon. It's Chinese-made, but seems well-respected by watchmakers nevertheless; as you'd expect from the BHI, I suppose.

I'm quite tempted, the price is excellent, but I'm not that keen on the look.

[GerardoG]

Happy to help. Cheers.

[chicagowatchman]

Originally Posted by clenz

Anyone see the latest Robb Report Watch Collector Edition?

Great articles on Geneva, and how the watchmaking really started there based on Calvinist laws that forbid jewelry - little choice for jewelers but to turn to watchmaking. Now five centuries later the Calvinist mentality is still obvious in their culture (refined discretion).

There are also some excellent articles about VC, PP, Piaget, Choppard, and other top watchmakers in Geneva, but nothing about Rolex. I guess they are too secretive to allow an article about their corporate structure.

There are some interesting reviews of some very high end watches that highlight some of the movement complications and features I have not seen before. If you thought your Rolex was high-end, you should see some of these watches that seem to start @ $150,000 - $280,000.
BTW - Can anyone explain what a tourbillion does and why I need one in my watch?

Very dissapointing that there are no Rolexes reviewed in the collector's showcase. Anyway, good information on the different approaches for movements, some future predictions for the watch industry (lubricant free silicon based movements), and some very cool watches!

I heard that years ago Robb Report had a "tiff" with ROLEX and since then they vowed never to list ROLEX as a watch of choice in therwe Mag.

[Bisquitlips]

I used to subscribe to the Robb Report. Found them to be exclusive to the exclusive! I did not renew.

I don't know how this rag keeps a good subscriber membership.

[clenz]

Originally Posted by Bisquitlips

I used to subscribe to the Robb Report. Found them to be exclusive to the exclusive! I did not renew.

I don't know how this rag keeps a good subscriber membership.

Totally agree - I usually don't find much there that I could actually afford!
However - I did pick up this edition at the airport to check out the what "the other half" are wearing for watches. Turns out to be some very good horoligical articles about the watch manufacturers in Geneva and movement complications - so I learned something new.
The articles about the new silicon movements and parts was pretty interesting and seems it may be the future?? PP has a new silicon hairspring (Spiromax) that would obviously be temp and magnetic resistant. They make it sound like all movements will eventually be silicon to avoid using lubruicants and this will make watches service-free for significant periods. Who knows....?

[Floridadogg]

Everything in Robb Report is over-hyped and overpriced. The Mag implies that everything is sold at MSRP or higher and you are lucky if you a big enough high roller to afford all the things they extoll.

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by Floridadogg

Everything in Robb Report is over-hyped and overpriced. The Mag implies that everything is sold at MSRP or higher and you are lucky if you a big enough high roller to afford all the things they extoll.

So very true!