Rivet Bracelets

[AgentHsu]

Does anyone know why there are two different styles of these rivet bracelets? One type has holes, and the other is solid. Just curious if there is a functional reason for the two different styles, or was it just an aesthetic design choice?

[AgentHsu]

Forgot to attach pics..

[lhanddds]

Basically, the one that is solid is Swiss and the one with holes is made for the American market and was produce by C&I. I believe these were installed once the watches were in the US and reduced the import costs somewhat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Richard Carver]

Originally Posted by lhanddds

Basically, the one that is solid is Swiss and the one with holes is made for the American market and was produce by C&I. I believe these were installed once the watches were in the US and reduced the import costs somewhat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Like a lot of watch oddities the reason for separate bracelet/watch had it's basis in import taxes, something about importing a finished watch costing enough more to make it worthwhile to source them locally. There was no doubt a savings on shipping but the taxman was the main reason.

There were 'Rolex' bracelets manufactured around the world for similar reasons, Japan, Mexico, Argentina as well as the US. I'm sure there were others but those are the ones I'm familiar with. Some of the Mexican bracelets were co-branded with Joske's which was an AD based in Houston Texas.

If anyone has additional/better info on this subject I would be interested in hearing it. :)

[mattedialdoc]

Originally Posted by Richard Carver

Like a lot of watch oddities the reason for separate bracelet/watch had it's basis in import taxes, something about importing a finished watch costing enough more to make it worthwhile to source them locally. There was no doubt a savings on shipping but the taxman was the main reason.



There were 'Rolex' bracelets manufactured around the world for similar reasons, Japan, Mexico, Argentina as well as the US. I'm sure there were others but those are the ones I'm familiar with. Some of the Mexican bracelets were co-branded with Joske's which was an AD based in Houston Texas.



If anyone has additional/better info on this subject I would be interested in hearing it. :)

Yep


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[springer]

Originally Posted by Richard Carver

Like a lot of watch oddities the reason for separate bracelet/watch had it's basis in import taxes, something about importing a finished watch costing enough more to make it worthwhile to source them locally. There was no doubt a savings on shipping but the taxman was the main reason.

There were 'Rolex' bracelets manufactured around the world for similar reasons, Japan, Mexico, Argentina as well as the US. I'm sure there were others but those are the ones I'm familiar with. Some of the Mexican bracelets were co-branded with Joske's which was an AD based in Houston Texas.

If anyone has additional/better info on this subject I would be interested in hearing it. :)

Close Richard - Joske's was located in San Antonio. I've also read or heard somewhere that Joske's were responsible for having the Mexican bracelets manufactured. I've never seen one of the Mexican bracelets without being branded with Joske's name on the clasp blade.

[Thathorologist]

Originally Posted by lhanddds

Basically, the one that is solid is Swiss and the one with holes is made for the American market and was produce by C&I. I believe these were installed once the watches were in the US and reduced the import costs somewhat. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

A very important lesson for us all.
Thanks for sharing that info!

Cheers

[lhanddds]

Originally Posted by Thathorologist

A very important lesson for us all.

Thanks for sharing that info!



Cheers

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[roh123]

Quality is quite different between the license made and the Swiss Rolex rivets. Overall quality on links, endlinks, clasp etc is just much better in every aspect for the Swiss. The endlinks of the non-Swiss bands are one-size fit all/none. Usually require the hands of a gifted watch maker to sit tightly on any model.

[SubKing]

Originally Posted by roh123

Quality is quite different between the license made and the Swiss Rolex rivets. Overall quality on links, endlinks, clasp etc is just much better in every aspect for the Swiss. The endlinks of the non-Swiss bands are one-size fit all/none. Usually require the hands of a gifted watch maker to sit tightly on any model.

X2.. c&i bracelet ends take a lot of careful and percise adjusting to fit just right

[AgentHsu]

Intersting, and great info! I really like the C&I hollow rivets. They look amazing.

[77T]

Thanks for asking the question - the practice of licensing in-country bracelets continued after rivets disappeared here in US. Remember the oval central links in RUSA bracelets? And agree the end links rattled like a baby’s toy.

Just wondering if any hollow rivet bracelet owners have sent a floss threader through the rivets to see what comes out?


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[Richard Carver]

Originally Posted by 77T

Thanks for asking the question - the practice of licensing in-country bracelets continued after rivets disappeared here in US. Remember the oval central links in RUSA bracelets? And agree the end links rattled like a baby’s toy.

Just wondering if any hollow rivet bracelet owners have sent a floss threader through the rivets to see what comes out?

Noooooo!


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Here's an oval link I bought from ebay a few months ago. It was on BIN for 200US! It was offered from a pawn shop who may have been behind the curve on current vintage bracelet prices.

Excellent condition with all 22 links. :)

[harrison_cheng]

gold rivet bands have the holes on the rivet. Steel swiss made rivet bands do not have.

[harrison_cheng]

the first one is gold, this is correct for swiss-made gold rivet bands. do not get the wrong information.

[77T]

That’s a nice find Richard. Although not as strong as the Swiss-made central links (that had the D-shaped links) mine was the most comfortable bracelet I’d ever had. How does the radius of the end link match up with the 40mm case of your Expl. II?

IIRC the RUSA oval linked Jubilees were only on the 36mm DJ’s? Maybe I’m recalling wrong and they may have been attached to Pepsi GMT’s, too...


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[Richard Carver]

Originally Posted by 77T

That’s a nice find Richard. Although not as strong as the Swiss-made central links (that had the D-shaped links) mine was the most comfortable bracelet I’d ever had. How does the radius of the end link match up with the 40mm case of your Expl. II?

IIRC the RUSA oval linked Jubilees were only on the 36mm DJ’s? Maybe I’m recalling wrong and they may have been attached to Pepsi GMT’s, too...


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Matches actually pretty well. Interesting question about ovals on GMTs. maybe Springer will swing by with some info. I know he's a fan of both!

[springer]

Originally Posted by Richard Carver

Matches actually pretty well. Interesting question about ovals on GMTs. maybe Springer will swing by with some info. I know he's a fan of both!

Yes, just as the 6251 Swiss Jubilee could be found on GMT 1675s, so could the USA oval link bracelets.

Below is a thread a put together a while back on the vintage Swiss, oval-link USA and "d-link" Jubilee bracelets.

https://rolexvintageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=139

[Richard Carver]

Originally Posted by springer

Yes, just as the 6251 Swiss Jubilee could be found on GMT 1675s, so could the USA oval link bracelets.

Below is a thread a put together a while back on the vintage Swiss, oval-link USA and "d-link" Jubilee bracelets.

https://rolexvintageforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=139

Great info, bookmarked!

[77T]

Yes it would be interesting to know. I can say with certainty that by mid-‘80’s the tariffs had changed and my 1987 Root Beer GMT came with a Swiss-made TT Jubilee.

I think all the RUSA TT Jubilees were 14k rather than 18k.


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