Platinum Fluted Bezels

[challer]

I've heard many times that Rolex will not issue a fluted bezel in platinum because it is too hard and the bezel cannot be machined. This didn't sit right because in my industry, medical devices, we machine very intricate shapes in platinum. I also note that the rest of the case, back, crown, braclet, etc. are machined out of platinum.

In fact, alloyed gold is 20% harder than platinum. Platinum though, is "gummy," meaning it can tear if proper tooling is not used, resulting in surface finish issues. Specifically, one needs diamond tooling and adherence to correct machining speeds. One can machine a near mirror Pt surface and it easily polishes without metal loss (easier than alloyed gold). So the bezel story simply doesn't hold up. I don't know why they won't make a Pt fluted bezel but it is certainly not because it is not readily possible. I can provide citations if anyone actually cares.

On a related note, Pt is 21.5 g/cc while unalloyed gold is 19.3 g/cc. Alloyed gold has an effective density of 15g/cc. This is why Pt Rolex cost so much more than gold - there is 40% more precious metal.

[037]

Those are all valid points but Rolex has never issued a press release saying why they don't do things. The story might not hold up but it's nothing more than a rumor. We don't know why they don't offer one, although parts yield on a low-production item is certainly possible.

Frankly I'm glad the platinum bezel is smooth. That's one reason why I'd go for platinum over while gold.

[R!$]

It is done for distinctive purposes

Also it would probably require additional machinery

[returntorolex]

Originally Posted by challer

I've heard many times that Rolex will not issue a fluted bezel in platinum because it is too hard and the bezel cannot be machined. This didn't sit right because in my industry, medical devices, we machine very intricate shapes in platinum. I also note that the rest of the case, back, crown, braclet, etc. are machined out of platinum.

In fact, alloyed gold is 20% harder than platinum. Platinum though, is "gummy," meaning it can tear if proper tooling is not used, resulting in surface finish issues. Specifically, one needs diamond tooling and adherence to correct machining speeds. One can machine a near mirror Pt surface and it easily polishes without metal loss (easier than alloyed gold). So the bezel story simply doesn't hold up. I don't know why they won't make a Pt fluted bezel but it is certainly not because it is not readily possible. I can provide citations if anyone actually cares.

On a related note, Pt is 21.5 g/cc while unalloyed gold is 19.3 g/cc. Alloyed gold has an effective density of 15g/cc. This is why Pt Rolex cost so much more than gold - there is 40% more precious metal.

I’ve argued the point on the bezel as well....if they can machine a crown in Pt, a fluted bezel seems doable. When in doubt, get both!

[challer]

I'm guessing it is distinctive. And noting that every AD tells the same story. If I had to guess I'd say it clarifies WG vs PT for DD (but not Platona nor WG DJ).

[Brew]

If "distinctive," does this imply that the pt. DD is only the penultimate Rolex? There's something out there (or to come) that is (will be) platinum and fluted?

[mrricks]

The platinum bezel on the yachtmaster has some intricate machining.

[Onikage]

Probably a pita to do.

[rolexpatek363]

I will never own any Rolex with a fluted bezel on taste grounds, so thank goodness for the Pt DD 118206!

[MikeyV]

Originally Posted by rolexpatek363

I will never own any Rolex with a fluted bezel on taste grounds, so thank goodness for the Pt DD 118206!

One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)

[rolexpatek363]

Originally Posted by MikeyV

One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)

Ha, well there's something for everyone! I have an OP 39, 118206, and three "old-skool" Subs.

Not a fluted bezel in sight, and no yellow gold. My third rule is that Rolex sports models must have drilled lugs.

[Brew]

Originally Posted by rolexpatek363

This is beautiful. I love that it will be at home anywhere my OP39 goes, but . . . .!!!!

[brandrea]

Originally Posted by MikeyV

One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)

Me either

Originally Posted by rolexpatek363

Ha, well there's something for everyone! I have an OP 39, 118206, and three "old-skool" Subs.

Not a fluted bezel in sight, and no yellow gold. My third rule is that Rolex sports models must have drilled lugs.

beauty

[mmmmp]

Originally Posted by MikeyV

One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)

Thanks for jumping in Mikey! Even if I HATED the smooth bezel (I don't it looks great in some configurations) I respect everyone's choices.

That's what life is all about - freedom of choice and to live and let live.

Sorry to get 'heavy'
Nark

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

[WatchinMD]

I am sure that they could machine it if they wanted. I'm sure it is due to stylistic rather than mechanical considerations

[HogwldFLTR]

The lack of fluted bezel is why I didn't buy the Pt DD40; the Daytona is much more attractive in my eye. The Pt blue dial isn't enough to bring the watch distinction.

[challer]

Originally Posted by HogwldFLTR

The lack of fluted bezel is why I didn't buy the Pt DD40; the Daytona is much more attractive in my eye. The Pt blue dial isn't enough to bring the watch distinction.

Same here. My grail is not offered - PT SkyD with fluted bezel. If it comes up I'll be first in line.

[Seaotter]

Originally Posted by challer

Same here. My grail is not offered - PT SkyD with fluted bezel. If it comes up I'll be first in line.

Weigh? 500 gram + ????

[rolexpatek363]

Thanks guys!

[Seaotter]

You can also ask the same question about diamonds bezels.

Gold = Round diamonds.

Platinum = Baguette diamonds.

[peterpl]

Honestly I think if they did offer a Plat DD40 with fluted bezel I would buy it. I actually asked a while back about putting on a WG bezel on the plat but I dont think that would fly. LOL

I'm a big fan of the fluted. I also dont believe this is a technical limitation. They should be able to do fluted with platinum no worries

[James-]

Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?

[returntorolex]

Originally Posted by James-

Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?

I believe it was referred to as “Engine turned” and made in steel. It was not nearly as blingy as the PM fluted bezel.

Pic from web

[Seaotter]

Originally Posted by returntorolex

I believe it was referred to as “Engine turned” and made in steel. It was not nearly as blingy as the PM fluted bezel.

Pic from web

[Tangier11]

Great topic. I have wondered this myself. The lack of a fluted bezel would prevent me from buying the Pl DD.

[Seaotter]

Originally Posted by James-

Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?

No

[challer]

Current website says all fluted bezels are gold.

[bluered]

Ym bezel is ss the insert is pt.

[VicLeChic]

Originally Posted by bluered

Ym bezel is ss the insert is pt.

Incorrect.

Both the outer ring and the insert are 950 Pt (applies to 16622 and 116622 equally). The subject has been covered in other threads.

Jocke did a dismounting of the 16622 bezel and weighted ring and insert, the ring was heavier than the steel equivalent found in a Sub..

As for the 116622, Rolex description of the bezel says platinum, not steel and platinum. Also, for what it's worth, Rolex boutique veteran salesman where I live was adamant the whole bezel was platinum, not just the insert.

I've often wondered myself why they could manufacture an intricate platinum bezel in the YM with raised numerals, sandblasted finish and knurled ring while not being able to produce a simpler looking fluted bezel.

the world is your perpetual oyster

[TimingIsEverything]

Originally Posted by bluered

Ym bezel is ss the insert is pt.

On the newer Yachtmasters the entire bezel and insert is platinum.