Rolex Yachtmaster vs. Ulysses Narden Acqua Perpetual

[red8aron]

Hello,

I have been building out a watch collection with most of my early collection being vintage gold watches (several Hamiltons, a Boluva and a Seamaster). I use a Citizen Nighthawk as a sports watch. I currently find myself wearing the Citizen or a Hamilton with a micro-rotor movement the most.

I'm looking to add my first high-end sports watch to my collection. I'm looking for something to be my new primary watch, that I can wear while sailing, swimming, and the office. I'll probably still wear one of my vintage gold watches for dress occasions.

Two that are at the top of my list are an early steel/platinum Rolex Yachtmaster (sand blasted platinum dial) or a Ulysses Narden Aqua Perpetual (black dial for versatility and because there is no enamel to chip in the bezel or the blue dial because it gives a pop of color and has a display case back).

The Rolex Yachtmaster seems to fit this bill, but I really like the UN's perpetual calendar function. Aide from the complication being interesting, I think it could be useful since I did loose track of what day of the week it was while on my last extended sailing trip.

I don't plan on reselling the watch, but I do want to take potential resale value into account. I imagine the Yachtmaster wins on that front.

I also generally dress pretty casually unless I'm going to court or a formal event and part of me wonders if the Yachtmaster will come off as more flashy than the UN since UN isn't as well know of a brand here in the US.

Thanks for any input.

-mw

[Pw92676]

Aesthetically I prefer the YM here. It fits the bill and I wouldn’t worry about it being overly flashy.

[Yobrooks]

Ym for sure, imo.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

[1William]

The UN brand is interesting and I have owned a few over the years as my AD once carried them. The resale on UN is bad across the brand except for a few one offs. The YM is the watch. Classic build, easy wear, ability to service it through the RSC network in a reasonable timeframe and cost. If you had to sell, the YM could be moved right now without much effort, the UN, not so much. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

[Russell996]

I owned the Marine Chronometer for about 10years. Amazing blue dial, super easy perpetual function. Quality is easily on a par with Rolex and far more complex movement. Bracelet or rubber. It is quite a large watch which is ultimately why I sold it.

[red8aron]

Russell996 I personally think that blue variation of the UN you owned is the most ascetically pleasing (especially with the display case back), but I am also a bit worried about the watch being bigger. My wrist is about 7.25" so I it would fit alright, but it would be a heavier thicker watch that might not be as comfortable for daily wear. However I don't know of any sporty perpetual calendar that is particularly small.

[robinmgb]

I’ve owned the YM and a UN dual time.
I’d say UN everytime if you are interested in watches and horology and Rolex if you’re a non watch person trying to impress others and primary concern is resale value.
Which type of buyer are you?

[red8aron]

I'm not trying to impress anyone, and if anything I'm a bit more concerned that some will think I am trying to impress folks with a watch. But I also don't think I can claim to be a horology expert. I am interested in the mechanical aspect of a perpetual calendar, I particularly like Ludwig Oechslin's design since it doesn't have sub-dials for the calendar, and can be adjusted by the user in 2100 (I'll be dead by then, but something nice if I hand it down).

[red8aron]

Thank you for everyone's replies!

If I am honest, I am probably leaning towards the UN. I'm not trying to impress anyone, and if anything I'm a bit more concerned that some will think I am trying to impress folks with a watch. But I also don't think I can claim to be a horology expert. I am interested in the mechanical aspect of a perpetual calendar, I particularly like Ludwig Oechslin's design since it doesn't have sub-dials for the calendar, and can be adjusted by the user in 2100 (I'll be dead by then, but something nice if I hand it down).

That said, I think that in several ways the YM is the better choice which is why I wanted to get some feedback from the Rolex community.

I will say, the new Titanium YM is another interesting option, but its currently out of the budget I had set aside for this watch and I'm doubtful about my ability to get one at a Rolex dealer based on my understanding of the Rolex wait list process.

Again, I appreciate everyone's input and will definitely keep the thread informed when I pull the trigger one way or another.

[red8aron]

I just pulled the trigger on a Ulysses Narden 333-77-7 (the blue dial version Russell996 posted pictures of).

Ultimately, I decided I wanted the perpetual calendar complication. The 333-77 coming with a exhibition case-back and flinqué dial sealed the deal for me.

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by red8aron

I just pulled the trigger on a Ulysses Narden 333-77-7 (the blue dial version Russell996 posted pictures of).

Ultimately, I decided I wanted the perpetual calendar complication. The 333-77 coming with a exhibition case-back and flinqué dial sealed the deal for me.

Congratulations- it is a truly stunning piece

[bullies]

Congrats!
Let’s see some pics when you can

[red8aron]

I'll post pics when it arrives, unfortunately I now have to wait a bit because the watch was missing a couple of the original links. Fortunately the jeweler agreed to order new ones. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive from Europe.

[red8aron]

The watch is also missing the original rubber/titanium band. I personally prefer the look with the metal bracelet (not a big fan of rubber and don't love having a big brand name engraved on the side of the titanium, that was part of the reason I decided against a Blancpain with the name engraved on the side of the case) but have thought about ordering a replacement rubber band for completeness. Russell996 did you ever wear it on the rubber/titanium band? If so did you like it?

[Russell996]

Originally Posted by red8aron

The watch is also missing the original rubber/titanium band. I personally prefer the look with the metal bracelet (not a big fan of rubber and don't love having a big brand name engraved on the side of the titanium, that was part of the reason I decided against a Blancpain with the name engraved on the side of the case) but have thought about ordering a replacement rubber band for completeness. Russell996 did you ever wear it on the rubber/titanium band? If so did you like it?

No, never had mine on rubber. I do put the rubber strap on my Marine Chronometer sometimes and it is extremely comfortable.

[red8aron]

Thanks for the thoughts on the rubber. My watch just arrived, and I think I'll be happy with the bracelet for daily and maybe get an aftermarket dress strap such as a blue alligator strap or stingray.

But gosh that dial is something in the light and I haven't owned a watch with such great lume. Just stepping into the shade after being in the sun and it glows.

[Carguy87]

Congrats on the watch that dial is cool!

[red8aron]

Originally Posted by Carguy87

Congrats on the watch that dial is cool!

Thanks, yeah I'm enjoying looking at it in person!

[John Doyle]

Yachtmaster for me

[red8aron]

Originally Posted by John Doyle

Yachtmaster for me

Its too late John, you are just supposed to tell me how right I am now, haha.

Just kidding, I really do think both are good choices, and I think the Rolex beats the two other versions of the acqua perpetual (white/black golf ball dial, with no exhibition case back).

And, if I ever decide to sell this I'll be wishing I had the YM since that is a lot more liquid. Plus its more recognizable, thinner, has a full in-house movement (instead of a modified ETA movement). And its easier/cheaper to get serviced.

But, it doesn't have a perpetual calendar (and the Ludwig PC design is just mechanically cool, such an elegant solution to the PC issue) or a display case back. Both things missing in my collection that I really wanted. Since I'd still be wanting to scratch that itch, I personally went for the UN.

I also have a date coming up with a beautiful Russian gal that might have more appreciation for the UN brand than the average American ;)

[1William]

Congratulations.

[Calatrava r]

Big congrats on your new watch.