ROC 50th anniversary - 38mm vs 41mm

[Mercutio]

Dear AP experts,

I very much would appreciate your kind guidance on size, design, and caliber of the newly released 50th anniversary models.

Bit of background: I used to be fiercely in the Rolex camp, but the unreal hype, the prevalence on instagram and on the street, as well as the entirely obnoxious behavior of ADs have, I’m afraid, tarnished the brand for me for good (personally and anecdotally, I feel the brand is going back to 90s with its image, but that’s just a sad good bye note :-)).

When recently a friend lent me his Royal Oak Chronograph (2017 model), I was completely smitten & started to look into the brand, it’s history, the technology and the heritage, which got me hooked for good :-).

I had an unbelievably pleasant interaction with an AP sales assistant in person, and was actually able to try on the model I was after, being the 50th anniversary ROC with a silver dial in 41mm. Unlike the model I wore for a day, I felt with the new caliber and reworked design, the watch wear much larger, and it actually felt a bit off on my wrist. The SA more or less jumped immediately at the same conclusion and recommended a 38mm, for which I chose the grey dial (which I find more timeless, and elegant on the smaller size - while the new blue hue is marvelous, I felt the dial would be a tad too cluttered with the chrono complication and another color). Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to try the model.

Availability aside, I’m a bit undecided which would be the right dream to chase. The 41 did not click immediately, however, I’m a bit concerned of going with the 1185 caliber. Also, if I’m not mistaken, if the 38mm is more or less the same as the 2017 41mm make (as I think at that time both had the same caliber), it may conversely wear on the small side, as I found the old model to fit perfectly in 41.

Does anyone have some real life pictures of the 38mm model? What’s your experience with regard to size? Which model shall I seek to pursue, and would the quite dated caliber put you off from the watch (I’m a huge technology nerd with watches :-))?

How do you feel about the very light makeover of the 50th anniversary 38mm? I feel a new proprietary caliber would have been a dream

Thank you for your kind help!

[APWhale]

I would recommend you find a grey market dealer in London to try on the 38mm. It is the only way to know for sure how it will feel on your wrist and whether it clicks, especially as you already tried on the new 41mm chrono. Side note, the 38mm chronos are not part of the 50th anniversary line.

[T.Stanley]

I would best recommend that you try one on. Depending on your wrist size and shape, both sizes will wear different from person to person. My wrist size is 6.75 inches (17cm) and relatively flat. After trying on a 41mm 15510, they are certainly too big for my wrist.

For size comparisons to Rolex, the 38mm ROC is similar to a Daytona. The 38mm ROC case size is physically the same size as a Daytona case, but the Daytona dial is slightly larger, so optically it makes the ROC seem to wear slightly smaller due to the smaller diameter dial.

I have a 38mm ROC and it is one of the most comfortable and beautiful watches in my collection, 50th or not.

[Sleepy996]

I also have a 38mm ROC and a 7.5" wrist and it fits perfectly imo. GL

[VogelPhoenix]

You'll get all sorts of opinions here - with a 7" wrist, I prefer the 41mm ROC by a wide margin over the 38mm ROC, which just feels to small on my wrist. Other's feel differently (see above). No substitute for trying both.

While the 38mm movement is not in-house, and the watch doesn't have a display case back, it allows a thickness of only 11mm (1.4mm less than a Daytona), which really helps the proportions with the smaller diameter.

[jvo532]

6.75” wrist … tried on38mm and it was too small … picked up the 41 … go 41mm

[Benzsiam]

For 6.75" + wrist size, 41mm would be better.

I think AP RO is harder to get than Rolex for most people.

[Token74]

Originally Posted by T.Stanley

I would best recommend that you try one on. Depending on your wrist size and shape, both sizes will wear different from person to person. My wrist size is 6.75 inches (17cm) and relatively flat. After trying on a 41mm 15510, they are certainly too big for my wrist.

For size comparisons to Rolex, the 38mm ROC is similar to a Daytona. The 38mm ROC case size is physically the same size as a Daytona case, but the Daytona dial is slightly larger, so optically it makes the ROC seem to wear slightly smaller due to the smaller diameter dial.

I have a 38mm ROC and it is one of the most comfortable and beautiful watches in my collection, 50th or not.

This.

I have a 37mm Royal Oak and a 39mm Royal Oak. On my 6.5” wrist, both are fine. The 37mm is the slightly better fit but I’m a sucker for the 39mm. The 38mm is probably perfect although never tried one on. I have a Daytona and it fits great, and will wear very similar to the 38mm ROC. I’ve tried the 41mm and it wore like a clock on me!

I like big watches is there are designed to be big. I have an Offshore Chrono and an Offshore Diver which both wear very large in new, but they are supposed to in my opinion. The same is true of the Rolex Deep Sea that I’ve just ordered. I don’t believe the same to be true of the Royal Oak.

But it’s a personal choice. Some people like big watches. Some people are size-obsessed. So it’s really up to you, mine is just a personal opinion.


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[Tanuki]

I feel the bezel is too thick in proportion to the dial on the 38mm. The 26331 is my favorite of the recent ROC models. This video is the closest I’ve seen to what it looks like in real life. And the panda rules them all (except for precious metals).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Hbh7Il02BCM

[Mercutio]

Originally Posted by jvo532

6.75” wrist … tried on38mm and it was too small … picked up the 41 … go 41mm

Beyond gorgeous - thank you for sharing!

[Mercutio]

Thanks to everyone for the tremendously helpful advice and assessment. I‘ve decided that I should pay the boutique another visit to try again the 41mm (jvo532‘s shot May have played a part in that ;-)), and see whether my initial „that’s a no“ gut feeling still holds. The one thing I’m reluctant most about is that as the 41mm with the 1185 caliber fit very nicely, hence, the same caliber in 38mm May be a tad too crowded, and also make legibility and hence usability more challenging.

I‘m also not fully convinced by the caliber itself, as I‘d preferred some innovation in what is an old (but of course proven and valued) war horse. From the conversations I had I gathered that the 38mm would be quite realistic to obtain, whereas the 41mm is a challenge. Nevertheless, I feel with a GBP 30k plus watch, it should be your choice of heart.

Again, thanks to this very nice and helpful community!

[pjm1289]

I've tried on the 38 (26315) and 41 (26331) and went with the 38. This was of course the previous iteration of the ROC. I've seen the new 26240 and the bracelet is certainly improved.

Concerning the movement, Tim Mosso at watchbox had an interesting take on the 1185 movement vs. 4401 (in house). He basically took issue with the fact that the 41mm is $1200 more expensive than the 38mm, which is a small cost for the supposed large upgrade. He then suggested that the 1185 is more difficult (and perhaps a better?) movement to put together than the 4401, which is designed for mass production.

Here is the link to the video. He segment on AP 38 v 41 starts at 22:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqlnb8JgBQg

[Palex]

Originally Posted by Token74

I like big watches is there are designed to be big. I have an Offshore Chrono and an Offshore Diver which both wear very large in new, but they are supposed to in my opinion. The same is true of the Rolex Deep Sea that I’ve just ordered. I don’t believe the same to be true of the Royal Oak.

But it’s a personal choice. Some people like big watches. Some people are size-obsessed. So it’s really up to you, mine is just a personal opinion.


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Couldn't have said it better!

[thecrownprince]

I have a 7” wrist and 38mm is too small. 41mm is amazing with the new design and caliber. While you can’t go wrong, my pick is 41mm every day and twice on sundays!

[Screwly]

My wrist is just a bit above 6.5 inches but flat. I have a 26315 and I find it to fit my wrist perfect. Here are some pics and a comparison to my white Daytona.








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[omar-rye]

Originally Posted by jvo532

6.75” wrist … tried on38mm and it was too small … picked up the 41 … go 41mm

That’s not a good fit imo

Originally Posted by Screwly

My wrist is just a bit above 6.5 inches but flat. I have a 26315

[Mercutio]

Originally Posted by Screwly

My wrist is just a bit above 6.5 inches but flat. I have a 26315 and I find it to fit my wrist perfect. Here are some pics and a comparison to my white Daytona.




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Thank you very much for taking the time to directly compare the ROC to the Daytona, that is tremendously helpful!

The 38mm really start to grow on me!

[Mercutio]

Originally Posted by pjm1289

I've tried on the 38 (26315) and 41 (26331) and went with the 38. This was of course the previous iteration of the ROC. I've seen the new 26240 and the bracelet is certainly improved.

Concerning the movement, Tim Mosso at watchbox had an interesting take on the 1185 movement vs. 4401 (in house). He basically took issue with the fact that the 41mm is $1200 more expensive than the 38mm, which is a small cost for the supposed large upgrade. He then suggested that the 1185 is more difficult (and perhaps a better?) movement to put together than the 4401, which is designed for mass production.

Here is the link to the video. He segment on AP 38 v 41 starts at 22:35 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqlnb8JgBQg

Thank you very much for sharing this - this thought would have never occurred to me, a highly interesting perspective! (And also giving me quite some comfort that, in fact, the 1185 may actually be the lesser mass-produced caliber, and a beauty in itself :-))

[RiRi]

Originally Posted by Mercutio

Thank you very much for sharing this - this thought would have never occurred to me, a highly interesting perspective! (And also giving me quite some comfort that, in fact, the 1185 may actually be the lesser mass-produced caliber, and a beauty in itself :-))

Also think about the history of the 2385 / 1185 - it has been in the first 39mm chronos, as well as in the first VC Overseas chronos + some Blancpains

The original 39mm "Kasparov" chronos are my favourite - perfect symmetry and no useless tachymeter like on the Daytona ...

[dawalsh]

38mm on 6.5” wrist.

[Mercutio]

Originally Posted by dawalsh

38mm on 6.5” wrist.

Absolutely stunning! Thank you for sharing this! The more I look at the 38mm (also thanks to the comparison kindly provided vs. the Daytona), the more it feels this size wears closely to the iconic 39mm design. Given that I really have small wrists, the 41 (gorgeous as it is of course as well), I feel there’s a real danger the watches beauty will be disproportionated.

How do you like the caliber, if I may ask? Running smoothly and accurately? Also, as you are wearing the reworked 2022 version, how do you find the bracelet? Lastly, did you consider the grey dial as well?

[VogelPhoenix]

Originally Posted by dawalsh

38mm on 6.5” wrist.

Excellent, both watch and fit!

[dawalsh]

Originally Posted by Mercutio

Absolutely stunning! Thank you for sharing this! The more I look at the 38mm (also thanks to the comparison kindly provided vs. the Daytona), the more it feels this size wears closely to the iconic 39mm design. Given that I really have small wrists, the 41 (gorgeous as it is of course as well), I feel there’s a real danger the watches beauty will be disproportionated.

How do you like the caliber, if I may ask? Running smoothly and accurately? Also, as you are wearing the reworked 2022 version, how do you find the bracelet? Lastly, did you consider the grey dial as well?

The watch is beautiful. I love the dial and proportion is perfect. This is my first Chronograph from AP and honestly speaking about the movement, it feels meh. Sometimes when I screw in it doesn’t catch and when pushing the buttons, it doesn’t feels as solid as other brands. Bracelet is still one of the best in business.

[mykii]

The 38mm RO Chrono is the best chrono i've had the pleasure of owning. The size is delightful.

Unlike others, I like the caliber. The actuation is very satisfying and it is a tried and tested movement.

[Mercutio]

Again, thanks to everyone who contributed their experiences to this thread - greatly appreciated! If you would have the choice, would you rather go for the grey dial, or the new blue hue? I find the grey variant very elegant and unobtrusive, however, the new blue dial as depicted in this thread appears most striking, and is a really nice Hommage to the original;

[APWhale]

Blue.

[mykii]

Originally Posted by Mercutio

Again, thanks to everyone who contributed their experiences to this thread - greatly appreciated! If you would have the choice, would you rather go for the grey dial, or the new blue hue? I find the grey variant very elegant and unobtrusive, however, the new blue dial as depicted in this thread appears most striking, and is a really nice Hommage to the original;

It really is about what YOU like, but if it were me, I'd take the grey. It is a relatively unique, monochromatic, look and at 38mm it is a much better fit.

Getting one ... well that won't be easy as i believe it's been discontinued? EDIT: NVM, still on the website, looks like only the blue panda 38mm was discontinued?

[thecrownprince]

When I was asked which piece I would like, there was no doubt on my mind it would be 41mm Chrono. My wrist is 7” and I couldn’t get used to the smaller 38mm after trying a friends panda 38mm on.

Also, the 50th rotor is only available on the 41mm as well as my favorite dial (khaki green). That pretty much seals the deal for me







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