Fitting SEL to the 14060........... Final Installment III..

[Tools]

We have been exploring the modification of an SEL bracelet to fit an early 14060. Here is what we've done so far:
Installment I
Installment II

Up to this point, we should be ready to grind.

Here is where we left off. The bracelet half is set-up in our padded vise, lay-out dye applied to the area to be cut, and our tools assembled:



At this point there are some things to remember:
> Power tools can cut you just as easily as they cut the metal
> Proceed slowly
> Grinding metal produces heat...it will burn you
> The lines we made are guides, not absolutes, so you must fit and refit during the process.
> Check your own measurements.. they may be different from mine..

The first cut I make is with a cut-off blade in a smaller grinder. This is a definition groove at the base of the lip or ledge on the end-link. It defines where the lip will remain, and gives me a guide and clearance so we don't grind it off. I have made this cut .010" deep, and it will be my guide for the back-cut. If you can't measure it, you could paint a paper-clip at .010" and use it as a depth gauge:


I will use a 1.500" x1/4" diameter wheel on an electric die grinder for most of the work.. It is slightly smaller than the ~1.575" (40mm) diameter of the case and will allow me to work the center of the radius and smooth up the sides carefully. It is too easy to grind down the sharp corners:



Grinding is time consuming; don't hurry. Do a little and take a break remembering that the Steel will be hot and you don't want to introduce any heat damage into it.. Also, you want to constantly check your progress as you go along. Take the end-link out, fit it into the watch space and note the fit against the case and lug sides. Re-apply marking dye (use a felt tip) frequently so you can see where you are taking off the metal and don't get one side shorter than the other.... you cannot put anything back, but you can sneak up on a very acceptable final fit. Do not heavy handed grind down the face to the line and not also bring the center of the end-link into the proper contour. Check the case fit, frequently, and also note that the pin-hole on the watch lug moves into place towards the center of the spring-bar tool groove on the bracelet.

Smaller grinding wheels can be used to better define the line at the back lip since the larger wheel is liable to frequently hit and grind it up a bit...

Eventually you will be down to your scribed line, both inside and out. Here you can see the front scribed line, and also the back lip where I have also given it a contour line.



Once we have done our final fit-up to the case, and ensured that the spring bars will lock in... (or almost if you want a tight custom fit); we take a final clean-up cut with the big wheel, making sure not to grind any more at our scribed line on the end-link face.

Here you can also see that I have used the small cut-off wheel and re-defined the lip and also ground it to fit the case without binding against the screw down case-back. This gives me a straight surface to mate with the case, and the extra depth of the cut is irrelevant and will be inside when fitted up. I have also hit the very sharp edges with a small file so we don't cut our fingers::



Here we have the final product before we take off the dye:


and a couple of wipes across our pad:


Let's slide it in and check the back-fit:


And also check our fit at the top and most visible/critical point:


This shows how much we have taken off............... Remember, we have to do another side..


Everything looks good, so it's time to lock it in with the spring bars and see what we have..


Finishing the other half, and attaching the clasp, let's take a look at the back-fit:



And, one final look:
Left side:

Right side:


Remember, this is a somewhat precision operation. If a major mistake is made, the bracelet half cannot be easily recovered. Results will be different for everybody. Also, all bracelets and watches are not made alike, so ensure that your measurements are what you need, and they are properly marked. You can always get another bracelet, and then have 4 halves to work with....:)

This is clearly not for everybody.. It is an aftermarket solution to a decades long problem/issue many have had with older Subs. Some may see it as blasphemy, but it really isn't much different than putting your Sub on a NATO, or any other aftermarket strap.

It's an approach to the hobby of Horology that some may find fulfilling.

[kcmo]

Fantastic 'step by step' Larry! Thanks for sharing this with us.

[buz-lh]

Great conclusion Larry. I wish I had the skills and patience you exhibit. I get frustrated just taking the springbars out sometimes.

[allanofcalifornia]

Great information! Thanks!!


Allan

[jackoo]

did the exact same thing a few months ago with a president braclet
those after market braclets are pretty nice in my opinion
goodjob there

[cody p]

nicely done.

[STEELINOX]

Excellent Larry !

[RFB]

Fantastic work! Many thanks for sharing.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by STEELINOX

Excellent Larry !

You thought that there were sweat beads on the last installment..............

.. I could have been taking pictures of a pile of smokin' metal......

[migboy]

great work!!! the non SEL were the only reason i didn't get the no-date sub when i was shopping for my 1st rolex.
thanks for sharing!

[valentine]

simply amazing!

[Saxon007]

That's quite impressive!

Did you use a makeshift fence to rest the grinder on or do it freehand?

[DSJ]

Very cool

[sleddog]

A great informative thread Larry!!
Thanks so much for the effort and time involved in writing this modification!!
I'm sure there are many others like me wanting to do this...Who knows,maybe you could make a living doing this kinda thing...
Rob.

[Z-Sub]

Very cool Larry. I'll modify "parts" on people but I don't think I can do this

[GradyPhilpott]

Beautiful work.

[acce1999]

Larry,

You must have steady hands! It is a nice project, so if you have more like this, keep them coming!

The next project could perhaps be to make the middle link of the SEL sharper. It has a too big radius on the edge, and is sligthly too high. I am certain you have noticed it, and it has nothing to do with function.

Once again: Great pictorial.

Best,

A

[walds11]

Nice project, but not my cup of tea.

[JJ Irani]

Smooth operator, Larry!!

[jets]

So that's what SELs are! j/k

Great job on that grinding, looks mint.

[cornerstore]

I stumbled across this great information and pics today. Larry one question, where can I buy a modified pair like these ones you fabricated? Great job.

[FranzM]

Great job but sorry.. i do not like this "mix" !
The bracelet is also a fake !

[Tools]

Originally Posted by FranzM

Great job but sorry.. i do not like this "mix" !
The bracelet is also a fake !

There is a big difference between an aftermarket bracelet or strap and a "fake".

Both literally and legally....

[JBat]

Great presentation, Larry. I can't say I'd be confident trying something like this, but it's nice having a detailed resource like this if I ever do. Thanks.

[smh223]

nice job, but i actually like the look of the non-SEL better

[Skullring]

Great work Larry. Thanks for posting this.

[pz93c]

Fantastic, Larry.

Almost makes me want to try it myself.

If you ever want to unload it, keep me in mind.

[Renoir]

Great post!! Thanks for taking the time...

[eelpie]

I've been asked by someone who's read this thread what modifications were done to fit the Oyster SEL bracelet 786790A to my 16710 GMT-Master II.

Even though the only model referenced in this how-to is the 14060 (nice job, by the way!), this single reader has made the leap that the GMT-Master / GMT-Master II ranges also require alteration / modification for the solid end-link bracelets to fit.

Could someone with appropriate credentials please clarify that this how-to thread is only meant for the model in question, the Sub 14060, and that hollow end-link and solid end-link Oyster bracelets are interchangeable on the GMT-Master ranges . . .

[Sub'erman]

Nicely done!!
But to each his own!!
I prefer the bracelet that was meant to be on the 14060...