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Old 4 March 2021, 11:09 AM   #1
Syntax1999
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Texas
Posts: 6
Mystery 1601 dial

Hello. I'm relatively new to the world of Rolex. For my first one, I sought out a unique vintage timepiece that had an interesting story. I purchased from Bob's Watches a 1601 reference Datejust listed as a Champaign pie pan linen dial with a 3.5M serial number; which should date the watch to around 1972.

I noticed the linen pattern is not like any I have seen before. Every linen example I have seen has the pattern running vertical and horizontal. This one runs diagonal. Under a jewelers loupe I can see the engraving was hand done first from the 10 o'clock to the 4 o'clock direction, then over that from the 2 o'clock to the 8 o'clock direction. The laquer has spider webbing that I would think is consistent with the age.

The Jubilee bracelet is 2 tone folded steel; not the American/Mexican made oval link or the newer Swiss D link. The clasp is stamped "SWISS MADE" with the product number 6252h14. There is no production code as this should predate 1976. The end links have the product stamps 255 J. Referring to Rolex documentation found online, all the product numbers are complimentary and consistent with the 1601 reference.

I also noticed that even though the dial was marked "T SWISS T" it does not have any lume. I have found online sources that cite during the 1970s there was a restriction to import radioactive materials to Japan; so Rolex produced "no lume" dials to accomodate. This supports the Swiss origination Jubilee bracelet as it appears this watch was not intended for the US market.

Additionally, since the crystal is not domed, I'm almost sure it is a service crystal. Unfortunately no box and papers but at almost 50 years old its excusable; especially if this watch has travelled halfway around the world. My conclusion is this timepiece was produced for the Japanese market with a an exclusive dial, similar to the mosaic dial.

I took the watch to my local AD and they agree everything appeared to be authentic but could not tell me anything about the watch. I think I need input from the enthusiast community.

Does anyone have anymore insight to this timepiece? Is my research sound? Has anyone else seen this type of dial? Thanks
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