Microbrand Musings (ft. Lorier, Halios, Baltic)

[Oyster Sauce]

It is both a crazy and amazing era for watch enthusiasts. While certain brands/models have been hyped beyond accessibility, opportunities have arisen for small brands with affordable options. Microbrands, which are typically run by truly independent individuals/groups aiming to make the "best" watch they can in the most steamlined way possible, have risen in visibility in this social media age. Hardware usually produced in Asia and movements that represent the least expensive but respectable versions of their type. How do they rate? I started this thread to share my thoughts and observations, and invite yours well.

This is not a watch review per se, but it is more of a reflection on my experience with the three brands in the title. It its certainly not comprehensive nor authoritative. Here goes:

Lorier: run by a New York-based couple, Lorier focuses on vintage-inspired pieces. The Lorier Safari pictured here is my current Lorier watch (and I like it!), but it is probably not the most typical of the brand. Beside the styling, Lorier's calling cards are acrylic crystals and articulating bracelet. Early on Lorier had been touted by some as a better alternative to Seiko watches. I actually think that while they might be in the price range of entry-level Seiko mechanical watches, they actually don't feel or vibe like Seiko. I actually think Lorier is more style-wise like a entry-priced Tudor. Hear me out on this (I mean it as a compliment to both Lorier and Tudor). Not ready to pony up almost $4k for a BB58? Get a Neptune. Can't source the superhot BB Chronograph? Get a Gemini. Not ready to take the plunge with the BB GMT? Get a Hyperion. Want that BB36 or Rolex Explorer vibe? Get the Falcon. Lorier somehow manages to respectfully entire those design spaces without being completely copycat.

Halios: run by a cool guy in BC, Canada, Halios is a bit of a founding father in the microbrand world. Still made in very small batches, the rush to get these is crazy. Pictured here is the Fairwind, the brand's most recent dive-style watch. Halios watches are very well made. While none of the watches shared here are "luxury," the Halios feels the closest to it. For example, while the Lorier Neptune might hold you over until you're ready for a Tudor BB58 (or a Sub), the Halios Fairwind might just scratch that itch entirely. The watch is very thoughtfully engineered. Case in point: it has an adjust-on-the-fly clasp on the bracelet that puts almost all brands not-named Rolex to shame. I was agnostic about adjustable clasps before; now I know that there's pretty much no excuse for the major companies not to engineer these for their bracelets.

Baltic: run by French dude with vintage tastes. Baltic has received a lot of prominent love from the watch media in the past few years. Most of Baltic's models are on their second generation of design, and generally speaking I think these are better than the first gen. Like most watch brands, Baltic sources high-value movements to power its watches. The argument against Baltic by some detractors is that for a fraction of the cost, they could get the same movement in ________ from AliExpress. No argument here. The point with Baltic, as well phrased by others, is that you're paying for the design. When I scan the various cheaper options out there for each of the movements that Baltic uses, I like the way Baltic houses them best in almost every case. For example, I wanted a Seagull ST1901 chronograph movement. For my tastes, the Baltic Bicompax is the most beautiful case for this respected movement, thus I made the decision to pay the "premium" for the enjoyment the watch brings.

In summary, microbrands represent an opportunity to get something slightly different from the mass-produced stuff for a reasonable price. These brands are mostly founded or run by watch enthusiasts like us (or folks with a strong interest in industrial design). I don't think that they "blow away" watches at higher price points. If you want a Rolex Sub or an Omega Speedmaster, nothing but the real deal is going to satisfy. But microbrands do offer a lot. In fact, I'd say that you pay for what you get, and you get what you paid for with microbrands. While more expensive watches can be just as a satisfying, the returns might diminish as that price creeps upward.

Basically I appreciate microbrands for what they are, and I appreciate watches from other sectors of the horological spectrum for what they are. What are your thoughts on microbrands? What has your experience been? Any that catch your eye? Please share.