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21 July 2022, 08:55 PM | #1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Basel
Watch: LF Sport & Pepsi
Posts: 1,008
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Laurent Ferrier Sport Reviw
Laurent Ferrier Sport
Sourcing the Unknown: The AD picked up the phone and announced herself after I had waited on a short hold. “Hi” I said, “I am calling out of the blue with a random question and was wondering if you might have some information about Laurent Ferrier?” She paused for a moment, “Yes, we carry Laurent Ferrier. Which model are you interested in?” “Well, that’s just it,” I said. “I am calling about a watch that does not exist.” I let out a nervous laugh, “I love the Grand Sport Tourbillon, but wondered if there might be plans to come out with a time-only version… and if so do you have any information that you could share about it?” Silence fell on the other side of the line. Hearing nothing, I ventured further, “It’s a shot in the dark, but it seems like with the success of the Tourbillon model, they might have plans to announce something more modest.” I could sense some skepticism on the other side of the line. “Sorry,” she said, “who did you say you are you with?” I explained that I was just a common collector, and only had a gut feeling that with the recent success of sports models, especially amongst the independent brands, Laurent Ferrier might have something in the works. She was very careful in how she responded, leaving the possibility open that such a watch could be coming but emphasizing that Laurent Ferrier had not made any public announcements so any information would be speculative. I gently pressed, “I totally understand, and with that in mind, would I be able to put myself on a list of interest in the event such an announcement is made?” I had no history with this store and was completely self-aware about how I might be perceived as someone in the media or some random flipper looking for the next score. She briefly paused again before offering, “I’ll tell you what…We do have some other models here at the store. If you are close by you are welcome to come in and look at them; and perhaps we could discuss more in person.” My spidey senses peaked. It sounded like something might be brewing. I set an appointment for the next day and took a beautiful Autumn drive down the coastal highway. When I arrived at the shop, they had three stunning models laid out for me already (a salmon and blue Square as well as a Classic Traveler in black). I was even more impressed with the detail and elegance of the models. The AD admitted that she was a little confused by the call the day before because the timing of it seemed like quite a coincidence. But when she was satisfied that I had done my homework about the brand; and that my feeling about a new model was truly built on my sense of the brand and the industry in general, she hit me with something I did not expect: “The timing of your call could not have been better. Laurent Ferrier reached out to its dealers just two days ago to let us know that they will be announcing a sport model based on the tourbillon and asking us what kind of allocations we would want if they can deliver… sometime around Watches and Wonders.” My heart skipped a beat. But then she dropped the bombshell: “Look, I spoke to my manager, and since you are the first person to ask about it, we can offer you to be the first on the list to receive it, if we get one. But I don’t know all the specs or pricing and I would not be able to show you any pictures until it is publicly announced.” I probably answered her question before she finished asking it. “Yes!” I was elated. The Review - Supple, Balanced, and Restrained: When I first learned the watch would be made from titanium, I was skeptical. My impression of some titanium watches has been mixed. But weighing in at just under 100g, the Ferrier Sport on the wrist makes me a believer in the titanium trend. Certainly light, yet not at all insufficient like some other titanium and carbon watches I’ve tried on – it has presence but does not sacrifice comfort. Indeed, what’s unique about this watch is the balance it strikes at nearly every turn. The General Aesthetic: Remaining true to Laurent Ferrier’s design aesthetic across all model lines, is the Sport’s supple curvature. To the touch, all its transitions from the bracelet to the case to the bezel, are soft and smooth. There are no sharp or hard edges at any angle. Zooming into the micro-details of the finish itself, the brushing is done in such a way that the top surface area also feels soft. Almost like you are touching a silky fabric instead of a metal. Yet the brushed finish dominating the surface area is offset by a thin high polish outline at each transition point in the bracelet and the case. What’s also unique about the brushed finish is its ability to catch and reflect light in a different way than the polished areas. Typically, the brushed finish creates a dense matte type of surface than traps light, which is beautiful especially when contrasted by polished details that make it sparkle (like a Royal Oak for example). The brushed sections on the Laurent Ferrier, however, looks like a shiny metal that has been covered by a thin microfilm to make it reflect a warm glow instead of a bright shine or a non-reflective matte. It is truly mesmerizing in the sun, and more so when inside of a room under dim led lights. The marriage between the soft angles throughout the watch and the warm glow of the finish has produced something with a distinct and definitive design, unique to the Sport. Proportions: I have a 7.25 – 7.5” wrist. The case/dial fits in proportionally to the middle square of my wrist, ceding room for the first link on either side to have a prominent space along the top of my wrist before draping down around the side. The thickness is listed as 13.6mm, which is roughly the same thickness as my Rolex GMT. But owning both watches, the Laurent Ferrier wears much thinner. In fact, after looking at both side by side and wearing both, I still don’t believe that they are the same. The difference is in Laurent Ferrier’s rounded curves and under portion of the case which countersinks comfortably into the wrist. That said, I would not categorize it as a “thin” watch. It has a larger stature than a 5711 or 15202, but less than a modern Rolex Sports. The dial to bezel ratio is evenly balanced. I would most closely compare it to a 5711 or IWC Ingenieur SL, versus a dial dominant display as seen in the Czapek Antarctique or to a lesser extent, the Lange Od. The Bracelet: The bracelet has some excellent features and a one that can be improved. The best part about the bracelet is that it does not flair out at the fist link, so it hugs the wrist without any gaps in the case-to-bracelet transition. For that reason, it can certainly accommodate smaller and/or rounder wrists in a way that the Royal Oak might at times struggle. The taper from case to clasp is very well proportioned. In first seeing pictures, I was afraid that the end link might not be thick enough and/or the taper would be too severe to draw out the “thicker neck” integrated look I that I personally prefer. But on the wrist, it’s incredible and certainly shows the detail of integration nicely without being chunky. And it tapers very nicely to the clasp so it’s more comfortable than some other integrated watches I’ve had (the gen 2 VC Overseas for example is one of my all-time favorite watches but can be a bit chunky to wear since given the bulk and thickness down the bracelet). Though, if I were being picky, I would say that they could have made tapered it more at the clasp like the Speedmaster, for example, for maximum comfort. Leading to my one of my few criticisms of the watch: no micro adjustment. If Laurent Ferrier missed anywhere on this watch, it’s that it does not have a micro adjustment at the clasp. While its absence has not bothered me so far, the micro adjustment is generally very useful. And I think a little extra effort to include it would have gone a long way. Some might be disappointed that it also does not have a quick-change mechanism for a strap change, though I don’t personally care about that since changing the strap is easy enough. Finally, speaking of straps, I am told that Laurent Ferrier will be providing a rubber strap option, which I am looking forward to.  The Dial & Bezel: This is where the watch makes its statement. The blue opaline dial can at times be matte and darker indoors with low light. In the sun, however, it’s a bright vibrant royal blue with a gradient moving from a bright core to a shaded outer rim. Since the crystal is slightly domed, the complexity of the dial is enhanced to really draw a contrast as the dial leads outboard. I personally also appreciate the absence of branding or other script on the dial. The modern “Laurent Ferrier Geneve” script blends into the dial and is bar far outshined by the mirror polished indicia. To that end, the indicia have a very dress watch look at a distance, and reflect the light in a way that brings a formal appearance to the watch, despite its overall sport design. In a similar vein, the avantgarde sportiness of the rounded square bezel has a crazy contrast against the very traditional onion crown. A similar contrast exists between the very modern sporty look of the date aperture set against the traditional dress look of the small seconds. It evokes a balance that is restrained despite the non-traditional elements that are organized in a non-traditional way.  Final Impression The watch feels like home on my wrist. It is my ideal fit and size. It’s not flashy and yet as you peer deeper into each of the elements, the subtle luxury becomes more and more prominent at every review. This is a deeply interesting watch that ranges from the simplicity and wearability of a Rolex Explorer to the complexity and finish of a Patek. Best of all for me it feels personalized in a way that more traditional (mass produced) watches do not. For that reason, I’m not sure it will appeal to everyone. You can’t flex with it… that is unless you draw in your company to take a close look.  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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