Cartier Tank Must XL

[Lol-x]

(photos from the web)

The Cartier Tank Must XL is a point of difference in the Cartier Tank Range.

The Cartier Tank "Must" historically and typically had/has a quartz movement. However, the XL comes with an automatic movement which is a Cartier in house movement which is used in higher priced Cartier models. The calibre 1847 MC is notable as having:

A. Automatic self winding in both directions.
B. 23 Jewels
C. 28,800 BPH
D. Cartier specifies -3/+7 seconds per day accuracy
E. 42 hour power reserve
F. 8 year Cartier warranty (3 years more than Rolex)
G. Watchmaker friendly for after market servicing
H. Swiss made by Richemont Group.

The case is stainless steel which gives it a lower price point but is harder than precious metals against scratches and dings. Unlike some previous Cartier Tank models with mechanical movements there is no uncomfortable bubble on the caseback and the watch still only measures 8.4mm thick.

The case dimensions are 41x31mm and the only other Tank which approximates this size/shape (40x30) is a platinum Louis Cartier Tank XL made in around 2008 of around 50 pieces that now sell used for USD$50K.

The "Must XL" is the only Must model with a date window and a second hand. The date at 6 O'Clock is unobtrusive. The traditional blued hands are a traditional and welcome feature that should not be ignored.

There is no lume on this watch, its a dress watch. Dress watches were traditionally small. I had a large quartz Tank Must 20 years ago and I passed it on because it was too small by my standards back then. My mother who wore it after me loved it.

One downside is the drop out size of 23mm which can limit the strap/bracelet options which are available. However, this watch works best IMHO on leather and there are strap makers who will help you out.

The Cartier steel bracelet option is a scratch magnet, but I would prefer that to the leather deployant option as the latter comes with mediocre leather segments. An aftermarket leather strap with tang buckle provides many leather strap options if you get tired of the steel bracelet.

Cartier has been criticised as not being a watch making brand. That is unfair, it has made mechanical watches for over 100 years with collaborations with other companies and now in house movements. Although Cartier has made quartz watches (so too Rolex) and many non-watch products, by and large all its products are appreciated for their quality and design.