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Old 29 June 2008, 10:37 AM   #1
mike
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Collecting Vintage

I posted this on another forum and thought perhaps some one here might find it useful.


If I may I would like to share some thoughts on vintage Rolex and collecting some of these great pieces. I sometimes get questions regarding the allure of vintage pieces and what to look for when contemplating the purchase of a vintage Rolex watch.

Please understand these are only my thoughts based on my experience and others certainly will have differing views (and of course they are as right as any of us.)

Any discussion of vintage Rolex must also take into account the golden era of the "tool watch" concept. Of course Rolex does not stand alone in the pioneering of purpose made timepieces, but few if any brands enjoy the heritage Rolex worked so hard to achieve in this arena. As a marque, Rolex stands at the forefront of manufactures working for and with Industry and professionals to create and refine specific references to be used in their professional pursuits.

Whether working in concert with COMEX, CERN, PAN-AM,Sportsmen,or select Military units, Rolex worked to make sure these professionals had an utterly reliable timepiece formatted to their purpose.

Fortunately for us versions of these watches found their way into the general buying public allowing us to purchase not just a watch, but a rugged, accurate, reliable timepiece more than capable of handling anything we could throw at it, and allowing the general public the opportunity to share in a rich history.

With that in mind, I would like to share some thoughts on the criteria I use when purchasing a vintage piece.

1. RESEARCH

Buying vintage is not the same as going to an AD and purchasing a particular reference that strikes your fancy. Many of the earlier references were "works in progress". Rolex made changes to particular models as changes were deemed necessary to enhance the model. Study and research is critical when contemplating a particular reference or model of that reference to ensure correctness. Many collectors have studied a particular reference/model for years, painstakingly cataloging changes correct for a certain year or era (and revising as new information come to light).

The Submariner for instance (and to a lesser extent the GMT-MASTER) underwent change on a seemingly on going basis. From the reference 6200 through the 6204,6538,6536,5510,5512,5513,1680,16800, all these pieces had subtle differences (and differences within) that only study prior to purchase can shed light.

I study these watches (whether I can afford them or not) on an ongoing basis.

2.CONDITION

Buy THE VERY BEST EXAMPLE of the model you are contemplating you can find. In my view cost should be a secondary factor. Here, I think patience is a virtue. Many times I've seen buyers jump on a piece that was "bargain" priced only to be disappointed shortly there after. Take your time. It will pay major dividends down the road in pride of ownership and resale should that time come.
I know with the pricing of vintage pieces seemingly going up on a daily basis it seems a race to "get it as soon as you can", but I'd rather have one or two pristine examples than several "issue" watches that will be problems. Whether you like snow white indices or even patina, study the dial CLOSELY--this is the money shot on a vintage piece. Ensure the lugs are as nice as possible.

3.HISTORY

Sadly, unless you are the original owner, knowing a watches complete history is almost impossible. But, documentation as to service history--who did it, when, previous owners, etc... tells us a lot about the life the watch led and it's condition.

4. ORIGINALITY

We would all like to find that "time capsule" example--totally pristine, all original, NOS!

While I've seen a few, they are HARD to find (and expensive). Understand some variance from original has little impact (and actually helps preserve the watch). Replaced crowns, tubes, crystals, etc.. while not original is a natural process of maintaining a watch. I love the look of a superdome crystal--just WOW! But, I've also read the horror stories of moisture intrusion and flooding that has destroyed dials and hands.
If used understand the risks and limitations.
Of course if you can find an example with the original box and papers and all the bits, you've increased the value of the watch dramatically.

5. SEEK OPINIONS

We are all students. Fresh eyes sometimes see that which we don't. In my experience there are no better gentlemen than those in this hobby. So willing to help! Take advantage of the experience of others.

Again, these are only my opinions and experiences. I am certainly not an expert, only a student of one of the most storied brands out there.

A few of the pieces I've gathered following this,







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