The issue I have this year isn't the models themselves, necessarily. I can accept that Rolex doesn't have to hit it out of the park every year, as you say. It's the bigger picture of what's happening to some of the lines, and the general design ethos of the brand - at least with regard to the sports models. (I think the DJ line looks better than ever, actually.) Two years ago, the GMT line was cohesive and complete (except for no Coke); in one release/deletion cycle, it has become a complete mess: no black or other solid-color bezel option (at least for now), SS on Jubilee only*, and THREE Pepsi models, two of which are WG. For bezel variety, if you're not into blue or red, you get brown. It makes no sense.
The Yachtmaster line is no better. It already was confused, with two different bezel styles and strap/bracelet options determined by the metal grade. Now they've muddied the waters even more by putting out a lone larger model that looks an awful lot like a Sub on a strap. And don't get me started on the mismatched hands. The line is totally scattershot, with no guiding design principles that I can determine.
And now we have a two-tone saturation diver, complete with an HEV. Uh, OK...
Up to now, I was looking forward to the Sub receiving a movement update, and wondering what interesting twists Rolex might give it. Now I fear whenever the update happens, the line might get gutted the same way the GMT line has been, and am grateful so far the existing line has been left unsullied. Perhaps this is just a momentary lull, and ensuing years will show the wisdom behind these intermediary steps, but for now, I'm seeing the potential signs of a brand that may have lost its way in terms of design.
*Does anyone else find it ironic that the "dressier" Datejust provides the option of either Jubilee or Oyster bracelets, per the purchaser's preference, but the "tool watch" SS GMT is Jubilee only? Why can't GMT purchasers get the same choice?
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21 March 2019, 10:08 AM
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