Vintage Rolex, how deep can I go

[rolexandlange]

The perfect vintage Rolex for me probably doesn't exist, but I want to go to vintage as the next chapter in my collecting journey.

I like to sleep with my watch on so I don't want it to be too heavy. When I wake up in my mountain cabin, I like to sprint from my front door straight out to the dock and jump into the water for a sunrise polar plunge. Nothing makes you feel more alive. So my watch needs to be able to withstand this and have enough water resistance for that morning dive off the dock. Mostly surface swimming.

After cooking breakfast and timing my eggs with my watch, I ride my mountain bike down the hill on a somewhat bumpy path down into town where I work in my office like any other stiff. Then ride the mountain bike back home, maybe swim a little more with my kids, and off to dinner back in town (driving this time) or cook at home. Put the little ones to sleep and do it all again the next day.

Ideally I could do this all with a 16750 (quick set date attractive) or a 1665 (love the superdome crystal but would miss the quickset) on the wrist, but how realistic is it? Am I risking damaging the hands/dial by mountain biking with brittle tritium lumes? Will I eventually flood it by swimming? I think I can mitigate the water ingress risk with proper servicing, but preserving the dial and hands seems more precarious if doing mountain sports while wearing.

I know most of you will say I need to take my watch off for these sort of things but that is not my intention for this piece in my collection. I want my watch to have stories, and for my kids to remember it on my wrist when we summited half dome or went camping together.

Thanks for reading and looking forward to this thread.

[brandrea]

It depends how you define vintage I guess…

I wouldn’t be wearing it as you describe without pressure testing it regularly. Even then, I’d probably use a modern reference for the water activities and switch it out to the vintage for smoking my pipe in front of the fire and such

[996marty]

Maybe a nice GMT and a G Shock

[KY..]

Sounds like you should go neo-vintage instead of full vintage.
I do think any five digit sports model Sub/GMT Master II/Explorer II/Daytona/SeaDweller will work for you.

[Dan S]

I have some 4 digit sport models that pass a pressure test. Of course you never know if there is a failure until it’s too late.

[btinl]

Why take unnecessary risks?

[Cooper33]

Neo-vintage for the win, I usually swim and spend the whole day with my Sub (16800) and GMT (16760). Also, a SD 16660. Below the 5 digits, I wouldn't necessarily avoid but would be certain to have them serviced properly. I never dive with my 1680.

[piratfisk]

As others have said, getting it professionally pressure tested would be your smartest move, I think. If it were me & I bought a 5-digit Sub/GMT-II/Exp2, I'd first bring it to a reputable service center (indep. or an RSC) & have all available gaskets replaced first thing. Then pressure test. Now you have a "baseline" & you're not guessing on when it'll fail. If you get it wet often, an annual pressure test might need to be added to your calendar.

[ExplorerI]

I swim with my early 90s Submariner. Recent service, passed pressure test so I’m not at all worried about it.

[Filipão]

I do whatever pleases me with my 4 digits, after having a new (modern. recently produced) TrueDome plexi fitted and pressure tested.

But I know the risks, besides, my Watchmaker states as follows:

"Due to age, we would recommend that this Rolex is no longer suitable for use in wet environments or submersion in water".

[linesiders]

Originally Posted by Dan S

I have some 4 digit sport models that pass a pressure test. Of course you never know if there is a failure until it’s too late.

Unless you buy something like this ; )

Then you can test all the time

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by linesiders

Unless you buy something like this ; )

Then you can test all the time

What’s that kids, you want to go for a swim in the lake? Hang on just a sec, let me run a quick pressure test. :-)

[Twophonetoni]

Lets consider no corrosion on midcase, truedome plexi, and regular servicing every few years with fresh gaskets/pressure test, what exactly does everyone thing could go wrong? Obviously if you crack the crystal or leave the crown unscrewed but he’s talking about never taking it off(no need for quickset in that case btw) and if he’s anything like me he’ll be looking at/inspecting the watch regularly. I see nothing wrong with a 4 digit despite a 5 digit being better suited for the application. At the end of the day having it sit in a safe is a disservice to it.


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[linesiders]

Originally Posted by Dan S

What’s that kids, you want to go for a swim in the lake? Hang on just a sec, let me run a quick pressure test. :-)

About half of mine pass the vacuum test but it is good to know when they do. Theoretically, vaccum is harder to pass then lower pressure

[Andad]

I modified a wet tester.

Saves a lot of messing around.

This was my Seagull 1963 on its way to 6 Bar.

It held the deflection at 6 Bar for a test hour.

[MorningTundra]

You’re over thinking this. Any 4-digit oyster in fair to good condition can handle this if well cared for. Meaning serviced every few years. And screw down that crown before jumping in the lake.


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[Zubs]

I wear my 16700 in the water regularly. Mostly just surface swimming but haven't had any issues with it after it was pressure tested when purchased. I also check it regularly and make sure the screw it screwed down fully before jumping in.

[Dan S]

Originally Posted by linesiders

Theoretically, vaccum is harder to pass then lower pressure

Well, vacuum is at most 1 bar pressure difference, so I don’t know about that. But I am an engineering professor who regularly teaches fluid mechanics, so we are in danger of going down a rabbit hole if we continue to discuss. :-)

[Filipão]

Originally Posted by Twophonetoni

Lets consider no corrosion on midcase, truedome plexi, and regular servicing every few years with fresh gaskets/pressure test, what exactly does everyone thing could go wrong?
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I have ALWAYS worn my Subs sailing.

Again, I still use the majority of my 4 digits when in the water.

But... there's a potential issue few people talk about - crystal's retaining ring snapping open.

My 6538, bought new by my late father and gifted to me at my 16th b day

[996marty]

Originally Posted by Filipão

I have ALWAYS worn my Subs sailing.

Again, I still use the majority of my 4 digits when in the water.

But... there's a potential issue few people talk about - crystal's retaining ring snapping open.

My 6538, bought new by my late father and gifted to me at my 16th b day

I’m loving the look of that

[Twophonetoni]

Originally Posted by Filipão

I have ALWAYS worn my Subs sailing.

Again, I still use the majority of my 4 digits when in the water.

But... there's a potential issue few people talk about - crystal's retaining ring snapping open.

My 6538, bought new by my late father and gifted to me at my 16th b day

Now that is interesting(and and incredible watch), i always thought worse case scenario would be the bezel pops off and you’re stuck with the Brando look for a while. Haha


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[linesiders]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Well, vacuum is at most 1 bar pressure difference, so I don’t know about that. But I am an engineering professor who regularly teaches fluid mechanics, so we are in danger of going down a rabbit hole if we continue to discuss. :-)

Insert, nodding meme.gif ; )

Originally Posted by Filipão

I have ALWAYS worn my Subs sailing.

Again, I still use the majority of my 4 digits when in the water.

But... there's a potential issue few people talk about - crystal's retaining ring snapping open.

My 6538, bought new by my late father and gifted to me at my 16th b day

The Big Crown and Small crown retaining rings fail much easier than the 5513/7928 style

[Andad]

Originally Posted by Dan S

Well, vacuum is at most 1 bar pressure difference, so I don’t know about that. But I am an engineering professor who regularly teaches fluid mechanics, so we are in danger of going down a rabbit hole if we continue to discuss. :-)

Hi Dan,

I understand that Rolex watches were not designed for use in a vacuum and that’s why an HEV was added to relieve a pressure differential in some applications.
The HEV opens at a differential of 2.5 Bar but how much is required to pull the crystal from the case?

Are some Rolex seals more efficient as outside pressure increases?

The crystal seal for example?

[Andad]

Originally Posted by linesiders

About half of mine pass the vacuum test but it is good to know when they do. Theoretically, vaccum is harder to pass then lower pressure

I thought a low vacuum test was performed to confirm that it was ok to proceed with a high pressure wet test?

[zapokee]

Get a G-Shock for swimming.

Vintage Rolex + water submersion is a disaster waiting to happen, pressure test or not.

Rubber gaskets perish quite quickly, especially if they're wet every day.

[linesiders]

Originally Posted by Andad

I thought a low vacuum test was performed to confirm that it was ok to proceed with a high pressure wet test?

Correct, Rolex procedure first vacuum test then pressure test.

Originally Posted by zapokee

Get a G-Shock for swimming.

Vintage Rolex + water submersion is a disaster waiting to happen, pressure test or not.

Rubber gaskets perish quite quickly, especially if they're wet every day.

True, which why as tool watches they were recommended annual tests and 2-3 year service intervals IIRC. But there is zero reason a properly maintained 4 digit plexi can't be perpetually (see what I did there ) made to pass.

[Booth9999]

I say f it, wear it if it get messed up deal with it then. Too much worry about a watch.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Booth9999

I say f it, wear it if it get messed up deal with it then. Too much worry about a watch.

It's waterproof until it isn't, as we see with all the water-damaged "moon dial" watches on the vintage market.

It could fail the day after a pressure test.

Just get a Seiko for the pool, FGS.