How many of you are into shoes... (Dress Shoes)?

[ecdc]

Originally Posted by swils8610

How can I get some exotic Alden's?

The direct answer to your question is to call the Alden shops -- NY, DC, SF. Or try theshoemart.com.

But there's more to it. Different Aldens are built on different lasts. If you wear a size 10 Nike, you could be anywhere between a size 8.5 - 10.5 in Aldens. You need to figure out yor sizing on different lasts, then decide what fits best. Then go hunting for the shell color on that last and style you like.

Easiest way to get fitted is to go to one of the Alden shops if you're anywhere close to them. Otherwise, it's tough and you need to do your research and then basically guess at your last-specific sizing.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Chadridv

So real question. I really like shoes, but not the same way as some of you fellas and definitely not the same way I like (love) watches.

So when someone asks what separates an Audemars Piguet from a Rolex and a Rolex from a Hamilton and Hamilton from a Seiko, I often have decent replies.

Does it work the same way with shoes? There's a Cole Haan outlet near my house, and I've bought some incredible shoes in the past for under $200. What makes those so different compared to some of these multi thousand dollar shoes you folks have?

I also really like Frye Boots, recently bought a pair of American Made Keen snow boots, which are awesome! PIcked up a real nice pair of shoes off a random shop in Florence Italy.

OK Go!

First there are two basic categories when it comes to mens dress shoes. The ones which have cemented or glued soles, and the ones which have sewn on soles. The ones which are glued on typically use cheaper corrected grain uppers. So basically we are talking cheaper components which cant be resoled and typically do not last as long. Because its corrected grain the leather is typically corrected to hide scars and such using chemicals which gives the corrected grain leather a plastic look and feel. Corrected grain looks worse in the beginning and it doesn't age any better and they don't tend to last as long as shoes that have a sewn on sole which can be re-soled. Cole Hahns are a good example of these cheaper shoes even though they may still sell a few Good Year Welted (GYW) shoes, they certainly are no longer known for good quality shoes like they used too. Such is the same story for most of the shoemakers that used to make good quality shoes the US. Most of those companies no longer exist or they are making and selling much cheaper shoes which use much cheaper components. There are but only a few good shoemakers in the US that still exist.

The quality sewn on shoes typically will cost you from $300 on up. These shoes use some form of sewn on sole which can be re-soled and because they can be re-soled and are designed to last longer they use full grain leather. Of course then one might ask what exactly is the difference between a shoe that cost $300 and one that cost $1500 if not more. Well it certainly isn't durability. A GYW shoe from Allen Edmonds could very well end up lasting just as long if not longer than one from John Lobb. However just like anything else there are differences and I can assure you some of those differences are fairly easy to see when comparing them in person. The differences are somewhat like comparing a SS Rolex Sports watch to a SS Patek. The differences are all in the Aesthetics. The design is more refined, the more refined Last, the better quality leather which will tend to age better, the better finishing (Burnishing), some other components such as better quality soles, additional details possibly like fiddle back waist, and overall better quality when it comes to the small details such as stitching and brogueing. Personally when comparing various brands and various types of shoes I generally find the more attractive shoe for any given style exist by shoemakers at the upper tier level. Not always but mostly or at least for me anyhow.

I have owned shoes from all levels and from a number of various shoemakers. The differences in all those things are very easy to notice. Its a bit difficult to explain but even the quality of leather is very easy to distinguish between by both sight and feel.

But as with anything somethings remain the same. So even if you decide to purchase a shoe from John Lobb there is no guarantee you'll get a good fit. So whether you pay $300 or $2500 you might want to make sure you'll get a good fit first and this will come down to your foot and the Last the shoemaker uses. Regardless of sizes they offer the Last may or may not be a good fit for you.

Whether its worth it or not and whether you wish to pay $300 or $1500 or more its entirely up to you.

[swils8610]

I've got my size figured out and on the which last.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by swils8610

I've got my size figured out and on the which last.

Excellent, of course most if not all shoemakers I know of have more than one Last, but at least this gives you a starting point if nothing else.

[swils8610]

The hard part is getting on an allusive list to prefer some exotic shells.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by swils8610

The hard part is getting on an allusive list to prefer some exotic shells.

Not my thing, although I did the cordovan thing and grabbed a few Alden's I never got into them that heavy. By the time I started they had already became exotic per say. Personally I found English shoes more to my liking and I now find burnished calf more to my liking as well.

If you haven't yet checked out the Alden thread on style forum some of those guys share hints on how to get the exotic shells all the time.

[cdmorenot]

Gentlemen,

Great shoes and great photos. I am amazed at the craftsmanship of some of the shoes on this thread.

I purchase all my leather shoes from a company called Carlos Nieto. Family owned and operated in Colombia so a little support for my birth nation.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by cdmorenot

Gentlemen,

Great shoes and great photos. I am amazed at the craftsmanship of some of the shoes on this thread.

I purchase all my leather shoes from a company called Carlos Nieto. Family owned and operated in Colombia so a little support for my birth nation.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

We would love to see some pictures when you get the opportunity.

[swils8610]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1458732400.355383.jpg
Quoddy's today

[droptopman]

Wearing the new loafers today

[belk7]

[QUOTE=dddrees;6560088]There really is nothing like the leather John Lobb uses and monks just happen to be something do real well.




[QUOTE=dddrees;6562463]Almost forgot. John Lobb is also well known for their museum calf, that is if you get into that kind of thing.

I agree Dan, and I do get into that kind of thing.....

[belk7]

Lobb Derby not too bad either

[belk7]

Love EG

[belk7]

G&G also a favorite.

Thorpe boots:


Stock photo of Isham Split Toe. I have a pair of these MTO that should arrive in May. Photo is Espresso. I went for Black in the same cross grain pattern

[belk7]

Two pair of C&J boots have been real go-tos this past fall/winter.

Brecon:



Tetbury:

[belk7]

Recently been quite pleased with Carmina. The boots are outstanding. The loafers just arrived this week and have yet to be worn:

[belk7]

And, even though this is a dress shoe thread, a pair of truly outstanding sneakers I have enjoyed for the past few months:

[rr-nyc]

I wear these with a nice summer weight suit. Berluti Playtime. Still made the Berluti way: Venezia leather uppers Blake stitched onto a rubber sole- with a proper Berluti knot.

My friends call them the "because-I-can-sneaks"




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by belk7

Recently been quite pleased with Carmina. The boots are outstanding. The loafers just arrived this week and have yet to be worn:

I agree Carmina makes great shoes and boot and I really think their real strong point is their cordovan and boot offerings. Unfortunately they were even a much better deal before their last price increase, but they still are a good deal. However at this point in this price range I am always tempted to look at Enzo Bonafe first even though his shoes are just a bit more.


Carmina Suede and Calf.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by belk7

G&G also a favorite.

Thorpe boots:


Stock photo of Isham Split Toe. I have a pair of these MTO that should arrive in May. Photo is Espresso. I went for Black in the same cross grain pattern

Fabulous Chris, simply fabulous. I too have a pair of Thorpes in Arran Country Grain. Personally I find these to be some of if not the best split toe boots out there. I like them just a little bit more than the EG Nevis. I also have a pair of Ishams in Kudu on the way. I just received the final invoice today, so I hope to have them in the next week or so. I also have on another pair of Thorpes in Oak Kudu which should be ready in a month or so hopefully.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by belk7

Love EG

Nice, this is by far my favorite brand overall.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Almost forgot. John Lobb is also well known for their museum calf, that is if you get into that kind of thing.

I agree Dan, and I do get into that kind of thing.....

Sweet!!!

Huh, I think recognize these shoes. LOL

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by belk7

Two pair of C&J boots have been real go-tos this past fall/winter.

Brecon:

Tetbury:

Hard to imagine having a thing for English shoes and not having at least a few from Crockett and Jones.

[dddrees]

For those of who who may have not seen this before. Here's a link to some information with regards to the various grades of leather, various tanning information, and various leather types.

http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/lea...nterpretation/

[dddrees]

Here's a good starting point for most. Keep in mind these are not very critical reviews, however like I said it certainly is a good starting point when it comes to understanding what shoemakers are out there.

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2015...-2016-part-12/

[capote]

Originally Posted by dddrees

For those of who who may have not seen this before. Here's a link to some information with regards to the various grades of leather, various tanning information, and various leather types.

http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/lea...nterpretation/

*bookmark*

[belk7]

Originally Posted by dddrees

I agree Carmina makes great shoes and boot and I really think their real strong point is their cordovan and boot offerings. Unfortunately they were even a much better deal before their last price increase, but they still are a good deal. However at this point in this price range I am always tempted to look at Enzo Bonafe first even though his shoes are just a bit more.

Funny you should mention Enzo Bonafe. I literally just gave Gabriel at Skoaktiebolaget some of my money earlier this afternoon - a preorder deposit on these:



Will be ready in Sept/Oct time frame so the wait begins.....

And Dan, I owe you thanks for recommending Skoak on another thread. They are first class guys and I have had terrific experiences with them. It's just too bad that they aren't able to carry EG anymore, but there's still plenty to like in their other offerings.

PS - I'll be looking forward to your thoughts on the G&G Ishams. Mine are still several weeks out.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by belk7

Funny you should mention Enzo Bonafe. I literally just gave Gabriel at Skoaktiebolaget some of my money earlier this afternoon - a preorder deposit on these:



Will be ready in Sept/Oct time frame so the wait begins.....

And Dan, I owe you thanks for recommending Skoak on another thread. They are first class guys and I have had terrific experiences with them. It's just too bad that they aren't able to carry EG anymore, but there's still plenty to like in their other offerings.

PS - I'll be looking forward to your thoughts on the G&G Ishams. Mine are still several weeks out.

I actually looked at these very boots three separate times. Probably would have ordered a pair if I had any more room in any of my closets. LOL

But really, I have so many cordovan boots now it's very difficult to justify any more pairs but this is a real nice looking boot and I really like the color as well.

No problem, I've throughly enjoyed each and every encounter I had with Skoaktiebolaget. Patrick and Gabriel are number one in my book. Patrick has excellent taste and has really made some things possible that no other retailer has to this point. Gabriel is always very, professional and responsive to all inquiries.

I'll definitely make it a point to oust and try and give my thoughts when I receive them. My understanding is the are a bit more dressy when compared to EG Dovers but this is natural considering how sleek the last is. Also it my understanding the apron stitching is a bit smaller and neater as well in keeping with the sleeker dressier Last.

[droptopman]

What a great thread this is. I have learned so much. Thanks for all the input and information. Going to cost me, but learning usually does. Found some new brands to try out.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by droptopman

What a great thread this is. I have learned so much. Thanks for all the input and information. Going to cost me, but learning usually does. Found some new brands to try out.

Glad to hear, as that's what we are here for. I get great enjoyment from enabling others.

But seriously I'm glad to pass on anything I can that may be of some help.