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Old 5 April 2016, 11:59 AM   #241
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The chains that carry EG, Alden, C&J, and others online and elsewhere do not have them in the store here in AUH for the most part, and there isn't representation from the major shoemakers except for Weston and Berluti. There is a local shoemaker called "The Cobbler" that is priced in the Alden range (higher for bespoke), but I'm reluctant to test drive them without hearing from someone who has them.

I see exactly what you are saying about differences in lasts. I was surprised by the amount of change from one last to another from the same brand.
This does sound promising however. As long as they have a store you typically can have them order it and try it on before you actually buy it. Not as ideal as if they stocked a good selection of models and sizes, but a lot better than doing the online thing of buying before trying.

If your really interested I think they have a Cobbler shoe thread on Styleforum. If nothing else you can conduct a search. If I remember correctly a thread comes to the top every once in awhile but not often. Just because they are not extremely popular on Styleforum isn't conclusive on way or another. But certainly not in the same league as John Lobb.

Various Lasts for shoemakers can achieve a couple of different things. Like you said even among the same shoemaker these different Lasts can make a big difference. However with respect to most of Gaziano and Girlings Lasts the toe box is the only difference on their various Lasts with the exception of their Decco Last. But most shoemakers have a number of various Lasts, so even if you can't get a good fit with one you may with another. Most will have a round toe Last, a chisel Last, and a Loafer Last. These are fairly typical but generally they'll have some others as well. Lasts are designed by shoemakers.to achieve various stylistic looks as well as to accommodate a good portion of people's feet. Certain Lasts look better for boots, some look better on oxfords, and some work better with derbies.

When sizing various Lasts, I've been very fortunate that for the most part I wear the same size from one Last to another Last not only on a good portion of those by one shoemaker but also for other shoemakers as well.. Sometimes what you'll find is that some may have to take a wider size in one Last vs another or a different length and width in another sometimes for the same shoemaker. Personally I find having to take a different length typically means that particular Last is not a good fit for your foot. Generall I find it best when the ball of my foot fits in the widest part of the shoes and when their is a thumb nails distance between my largest toe and the end of the shoe. If I'm trying to force my foot into a different size the ball of my foot is no longer quite at the widest part of the shoe. Trying to force a square peg into round hole is never an ideal solution.

The bottom line is that these are RTW shoes as such these Lasts were not designed specifically for you. However you may find certain Lasts will work better than others. After all most people don't end up purchasing Bespoke footwear, so RTW works just fine for the majority of folks.
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Old 6 April 2016, 12:08 AM   #242
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It maybe a staple but a staple no man should be without. The Black capote Oxford.


I think you meant captoe. No true man would wear a Capote!
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Old 6 April 2016, 02:33 AM   #243
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Adlen calf LWB today...ImageUploadedByTapatalk1459874028.359333.jpg
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Old 6 April 2016, 03:55 AM   #244
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Good day. Wearing my Alden 986's today.

This kind of tickled me...This morning on the way into work, I stopped by the mini mart to grab some tea. As I am walking in a group of 4 young construction workers are walking out, one of them stops and says, "dude those shoes are bad ***." Kind of caught me off guard and I just said thanks. Just thought it was funny. I live in a rural/agricultural area so rarely would anyone comment on my watches or clothes.
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Old 6 April 2016, 06:06 AM   #245
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Good day. Wearing my Alden 986's today.

This kind of tickled me...This morning on the way into work, I stopped by the mini mart to grab some tea. As I am walking in a group of 4 young construction workers are walking out, one of them stops and says, "dude those shoes are bad ***." Kind of caught me off guard and I just said thanks. Just thought it was funny. I live in a rural/agricultural area so rarely would anyone comment on my watches or clothes.
Every once in awhile someone will notice but it does catch you off guard. It also brings a smile to my face to realize that someone actually does pay attention to what is going on.
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Old 6 April 2016, 06:08 AM   #246
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Adlen calf LWB today...Attachment 728850
Nice!!
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Old 6 April 2016, 11:53 AM   #247
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Thanks Dan. Just waiting for the try on shoes from Rancourt to come in tomorrow so I can place my order for the shell loafers. The 4 weeks is going to be a long wait!
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Old 6 April 2016, 11:59 AM   #248
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Thanks Dan. Just waiting for the try on shoes from Rancourt to come in tomorrow so I can place my order for the shell loafers. The 4 weeks is going to be a long wait!
Believe 4 weeks is a very very short wait for Made To Order or Custom Order. However even the 11 months I've waited which are shorter than some have waited is worth it as long as in the end your getting what you want. We're certainly not talking off the rack or a local Walmart purchase here.
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Old 6 April 2016, 12:02 PM   #249
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It's def a short wait! I hear some guys have been an lists for years.
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Old 6 April 2016, 12:06 PM   #250
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It's def a short wait! I hear some guys have been an lists for years.
I hear of that often with regards to Alden's rarer cordovan colors. Frankly I'm glad that bug never really bit me. My typicall waits are 4 to 10 months. Once you have a big enough rotation and get used to off season ordering it's not that big of an issue.
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Old 6 April 2016, 02:29 PM   #251
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I hear of that often with regards to Alden's rarer cordovan colors. Frankly I'm glad that bug never really bit me. My typicall waits are 4 to 10 months. Once you have a big enough rotation and get used to off season ordering it's not that big of an issue.
I think you're a bad influence
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Old 6 April 2016, 07:15 PM   #252
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I think you're a bad influence
Who, me?


But actually this is one of the reasons I went the Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling route instead of John Lobb. The ability to get things specifically the way I wanted them with regard to either leather, color, or Last. The Made To Order MTO and Group Made To Order programs worked out pretty good for me.

Besides even if you don't want to order things before trying them on, once you've have nailed down your size in a given Last then really there shouldn't be an issue after that.
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Old 6 April 2016, 08:34 PM   #253
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Who, me?


But actually this is one of the reasons I went the Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling route instead of John Lobb. The ability to get things specifically the way I wanted them with regard to either leather, color, or Last. The Made To Order MTO and Group Made To Order programs worked out pretty good for me.

Besides even if you don't want to order things before trying them on, once you've have nailed down your size in a given Last then really there shouldn't be an issue after that.
Dan your show collection and knowledge is extraordinary. In recent years I have focused on Edward Green (just got my first pair of custom -- a Dover on the 606 last. I'm a "D" width which is very difficult to find, so I will likely stick with the custom ordering route.

A few questions for you:

1. What have you found to be the best walking shoes? I'm thinking about situations when you are touring a city, and spending the majority of the day walking about to various sites and want to be both comfortable and stylish?

2. Also when traveling and (perhaps) restricted to just a few pairs of shoes, do you have any tips about how to chose from among numerous pairs to have the best options on your travels.

Thanks for all the inspiring pictures and posts, and the information you're sharing.
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Old 6 April 2016, 08:48 PM   #254
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Who, me?


But actually this is one of the reasons I went the Edward Green and Gaziano & Girling route instead of John Lobb. The ability to get things specifically the way I wanted them with regard to either leather, color, or Last. The Made To Order MTO and Group Made To Order programs worked out pretty good for me.

Besides even if you don't want to order things before trying them on, once you've have nailed down your size in a given Last then really there shouldn't be an issue after that.
I really like the RTW collection EG has online. If I could find a place over here to try on their lasts I would definitely go their way. Returns would be a PIA from here, so trying them on is a must.
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Old 7 April 2016, 03:17 AM   #255
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Some #8 PTB today...
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Old 7 April 2016, 06:58 AM   #256
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I really like the RTW collection EG has online. If I could find a place over here to try on their lasts I would definitely go their way. Returns would be a PIA from here, so trying them on is a must.
Well maybe at some point you have the chance to size some of Edward Green Lasts. Believe it or not I am fairly confident you have better access to better shoes where your located than I do.
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Old 7 April 2016, 07:00 AM   #257
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Some #8 PTB today...

Nice!!
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Old 9 April 2016, 08:18 PM   #258
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I went to the Dubai Mall today. I looked at about three dozen pairs of shoes. Tried on about a dozen. I was surprised that there weren't very many quality brands. Mostly glued on soles and Blake stitching.

Then I went to John Lobb. The SA was very good. He diagnosed my size problem in about 45 seconds. The derby's didn't work at all for me. Neither did their monks. But these two fit very well, and I liked them.

Thanks for the tips Dan
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Old 9 April 2016, 08:20 PM   #259
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I went to the Dubai Mall today. I looked at about three dozen pairs of shoes. Tried on about a dozen. I was surprised that there weren't very many quality brands. Mostly glued on soles and Blake stitching.

Then I went to John Lobb. The SA was very good. He diagnosed my size problem in about 45 seconds. The derby's didn't work at all for me. Neither did their monks. But these two fit very well, and I liked them.

Thanks for the tips Dan
Both those pairs of JL look incredible. They have a great shape to them
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Old 9 April 2016, 08:38 PM   #260
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I went to the Dubai Mall today. I looked at about three dozen pairs of shoes. Tried on about a dozen. I was surprised that there weren't very many quality brands. Mostly glued on soles and Blake stitching.

Then I went to John Lobb. The SA was very good. He diagnosed my size problem in about 45 seconds. The derby's didn't work at all for me. Neither did their monks. But these two fit very well, and I liked them.

Thanks for the tips Dan
Excellent choices, Congrats!!!

I'm glad it all worked out for you in the end.
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Old 9 April 2016, 09:12 PM   #261
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Excellent choices, Congrats!!!

I'm glad it all worked out for you in the end.
Not finished yet Dan. These are great shoes, but I'd still like a nice pair of brogues, and a pair of monks. Too bad the JL RTW's didn't fit. The Parisian museum calf was stunning.
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Old 9 April 2016, 10:04 PM   #262
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Not finished yet Dan. These are great shoes, but I'd still like a nice pair of brogues, and a pair of monks. Too bad the JL RTW's didn't fit. The Parisian museum calf was stunning.
Sorry but i don't follow John Lobb that much, but which Last are the ones that fit you on? Isn't that the 7000 Last?
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Old 9 April 2016, 10:16 PM   #263
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Sorry but i don't follow John Lobb that much, but which Last are the ones that fit you on? Isn't that the 7000 Last?
Yes, 7000. If I could get a translation from JL/7000 over to Edward Green or G&G, I'd take a shot at ordering a pair online.
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Old 9 April 2016, 11:00 PM   #264
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Yes, 7000. If I could get a translation from JL/7000 over to Edward Green or G&G, I'd take a shot at ordering a pair online.
Have you looked at the John Lobb website to see the shoes that are available on the 7000 Last. They have few that meet your criteria. John Lobb is known for their monks. However there is something to say for the other two shoemakers as well.

I imagine by now you have looked at the John Lobb, Edward Green, and Gaziano & Girling threads that I provided. I know some of the users there have shoes from all three of those shoemakers and I would imagine there are some fir comparisons there. Of course some of your better shoe retailers can give some advice as well. Some of these retailers do this all of the time and some of these retailers actually sell, have sold, or have experience with all three brands.


I would recommend the following retailers.

Skoaktiebolaget used to sell Edward Green but now only sell Gaziano and Girling, but if you decide to get something from Gaziano and Girling or St Crispins I can highly recommend their services. Just send an email to their sales and as for Gabriel assistance. He's extremely responsive and his advice his always spot on.

Leffot sells shoes from all three brands and more and they should be able to give you good device.

Bespoke England sells both John Lobb and Gaziano & Girling and thy should be able to give you some good advice.


At this point however I would just advise you to take sometime to consider your next move however. Generally I've seen when most have made up their mind to pull the trigger for the first time they then tend to pull it in rapid succession. All well and good, except for those who later on have regrets for one reason or another. If you take your time you'll have a better chance of making less mistakes. For one you haven't even gone thru the process of breaking in your first few shoes to make sure these in fact are a good fit.
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Old 9 April 2016, 11:13 PM   #265
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Have you looked at the John Lobb website to see the shoes that are available on the 7000 Last. They have few that meet your criteria. John Lobb is known for their monks. However there is something to say for the other two shoemakers as well.

I imagine by now you have looked at the John Lobb, Edward Green, and Gaziano & Girling threads that I provided. I know some of the users there have shoes from all three of those shoemakers and I would imagine there are some fir comparisons there. Of course some of your better shoe retailers can give some advice as well. Some of these retailers do this all of the time and some of these retailers actually sell, have sold, or have experience with all three brands.


I would recommend the following retailers.

Skoaktiebolaget used to sell Edward Green but now only sell Gaziano and Girling, but if you decide to get something from Gaziano and Girling or St Crispins I can highly recommend their services. Just send an email to their sales and as for Gabriel assistance. He's extremely responsive and his advice his always spot on.

Leffot sells shoes from all three brands and more and they should be able to give you good device.

Bespoke England sells both John Lobb and Gaziano & Girling and thy should be able to give you some good advice.


At this point however I would just advise you to take sometime to consider your next move however. Generally I've seen when most have made up their mind to pull the trigger for the first time they then tend to pull it in rapid succession. All well and good, except for those who later on have regrets for one reason or another. If you take your time you'll have a better chance of making less mistakes. For one you haven't even gone thru the process of breaking in your first few shoes to make sure these in fact are a good fit.
Thanks Dan. Good advice.

BTW, the plum pair is the 8000 last.
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Old 9 April 2016, 11:25 PM   #266
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Thanks Dan. Good advice.

No problem, sometimes it works but I've seen too many times when it doesn't. In the meantime I would recommend taking some more time to familiarize with the various options that you have with regards to various shoemakers, models, Lasts, and retailers. For those shoemakers where you can order MTOs, what are typical models which are stocked vs ones you may have to pay a fee for the MTO to get. Keep an eye on Styleforum for GMTOs, as these are a great way to pickup the configuration which is typically not stocked but you won't have to pay a fee because enough have gone in together that the fee is waived. Always best if you don't have to pay extra if you don't have too.

Good Luck.
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Old 10 April 2016, 01:41 AM   #267
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Thanks Dan. Good advice.

BTW, the plum pair is the 8000 last.
Nope. My mistake, they are 7000 too. The 7 overlapped the E from the size and made an 8.
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Old 10 April 2016, 02:40 AM   #268
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Some LHS #8's today...ImageUploadedByTapatalk1460220009.305451.jpg
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Old 10 April 2016, 02:44 AM   #269
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Some LHS #8's today
Nice!!!

This has to be one of their shoes that I like the most from Alden.
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Old 10 April 2016, 09:13 PM   #270
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I have couple pairs of John Lobbs great shoes but I really love my Churchs Alligator I picked up in Marina Bay Sands mall in Singapore this weekend.
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