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Old 19 June 2011, 11:21 AM   #1
Lisa
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Vintage Constellation?

Hi, guys. I've recently taken quite a shine to the 1950s-60s era Omegas. The size - 34mm or so - seems quite nice for modern-day wear on a smaller wrist. I've wanted a vintage watch for a long time and had been looking at Rolex Datejusts and Dates, but the vintage Omegas have such a neat look and can be had for considerably less than Rolex. At least, so it seems.

Is it crazy to be especially intrigued with the Constellation because it has the cool observatory image on the back of the case? I just love that look. Even though it wouldn't show when being worn, it is such an elegant touch.

I'm trying to learn more about these vintage pieces. Can anybody tell me more about them, pros and cons, and post pics if you have them? Any and all vintage Omegas - by all means share your knowledge!

Thank you!

PS - just found Desmond's blog. What a tremendous resource!
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Old 19 June 2011, 12:14 PM   #2
kyle L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa View Post
Hi, guys. I've recently taken quite a shine to the 1950s-60s era Omegas. The size - 34mm or so - seems quite nice for modern-day wear on a smaller wrist. I've wanted a vintage watch for a long time and had been looking at Rolex Datejusts and Dates, but the vintage Omegas have such a neat look and can be had for considerably less than Rolex. At least, so it seems.

Is it crazy to be especially intrigued with the Constellation because it has the cool observatory image on the back of the case? I just love that look. Even though it wouldn't show when being worn, it is such an elegant touch.

I'm trying to learn more about these vintage pieces. Can anybody tell me more about them, pros and cons, and post pics if you have them? Any and all vintage Omegas - by all means share your knowledge!

Thank you!

PS - just found Desmond's blog. What a tremendous resource!
The size of the 50s/60s Seamasters and Constellations are perfect for me, and they're pretty affordable. Don't catch the bug Lisa!























Here's that infamous logo:

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Old 19 June 2011, 12:28 PM   #3
rodrob59
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I have a '67 Constellation which is my dress watch. Stainless with a gold upper case and white face. Great looking watch especially with a suit. The pie pan dial looks best in my opinion and the gold observatory looks fantastic against the stainless. At 34mm it's a little small with short sleeves, but should be fine for you.
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Old 19 June 2011, 02:02 PM   #4
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Yes, mid 60s is made for you

Because the diameters were around 34.5mm

I would aim for something like either a stainles or gold cap 167.005 (cal 551) or a 168.005 (cal 561) ...depending on whether you want a date window or not. (I actually think the 551 in a pie pan dial is the ultimate).

Other models with these calibres are 14381, 14766, 14900 (Cal 551) and cal 561 - 168.004 (straight lugs),14902, and 14393.

The 551 and 561 sold in quantities far greater than Rolex, when Omega was considered as having the jump on Rolex, but for my money comparing a cal 561 with a Rolex cal 1570 is very much like comparing equals.

I'd aim for a pie pan if you can.

Some of Kyle's beauties are of earlier calibres and certainly its worth going for - say a cal 354 bumper in case 2782 in pie pan again or a guilloche dial which are fantastic looking.

Welcome to the world of Connies - good luck in your search.

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Old 19 June 2011, 02:14 PM   #5
Lisa
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Thanks for the great information so far. Kyle, beautiful pics as always. I had no idea you had acquired so many vintage Omegas!

Desmond, I think I know what the pie pan dial is. Have heard of "bumper" but don't know what it means. Guilloche - huh? Clearly there's lots to be learned.

A birth year Constellation would be lovely - 1963. However, I like the 1950s dials (markers in particular) a little more.

By the way - how did the name "constellation" come about?
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Old 19 June 2011, 02:22 PM   #6
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Kyle - are all of your dials original? Some of them look perfect. That's good news if they are - I was trying to decide about settling for a refinished dial but would rather not.
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Old 19 June 2011, 02:28 PM   #7
kyle L
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Here's an example of a bumper:



The rotor doesn't spin around 360 degrees like most automatics, instead when you shake it, you can feel the rotor bumping.

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Kyle - are all of your dials original? Some of them look perfect. That's good news if they are - I was trying to decide about settling for a refinished dial but would rather not.
Yep all of them are original, I had a redial once but after a while I decided to only buy watches with original dials. It was bugging me.
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Old 19 June 2011, 02:54 PM   #8
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re

Here's one of my pie pans in case 14900 in gold cap



Here's a 'no name' Guilloche dial case 2648 with bumper - notice the machined pattern on the dial. Goes very nice with arrowhead markers.



Here's a pie pan in cal 561, case 14902 that has both arrowheads and the most desirable calibre. These are quite scarce though.



Here's a bumper 341 movement. Notice in the earliest version how the rotor was not full 360 degree and bumped against exposed springs. Later the springs were hidden.



The name Constellation was derivitave of Omega's success at Observatory competitions in the 40s and 30s. It was suggested to Adalophe Vallat, Omega's Sale Manager at the time by an employee of Italian agent, Carlo Di Marchi, by the name of Bruno Passoni

Cheers

Desmond

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Thanks for the great information so far. Kyle, beautiful pics as always. I had no idea you had acquired so many vintage Omegas!

Desmond, I think I know what the pie pan dial is. Have heard of "bumper" but don't know what it means. Guilloche - huh? Clearly there's lots to be learned.

A birth year Constellation would be lovely - 1963. However, I like the 1950s dials (markers in particular) a little more.

By the way - how did the name "constellation" come about?
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Old 19 June 2011, 03:33 PM   #9
kyle L
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I need a Globemaster 354/352 Desmond! Great watches.
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Old 19 June 2011, 03:51 PM   #10
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re

And with your propensity for collecting, Kyle, I'm sure you'll have one soon!

Cheers

D

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I need a Globemaster 354/352 Desmond! Great watches.
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Old 19 June 2011, 03:59 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info! Would a guilloche dial also be described as a honeycomb dial?

Arrowhead markers - oooh... I want those. More of a '50s vintage than '60s, correct?

The pie pan with date function - very nice.

Are all-steel models harder to come by? I'm not entirely opposed to gold - especially rose gold.

Bumper movement - very interesting. Thanks for the picture. Makes me wonder if the watch would wobble on its own when laid on a countertop.

Kyle - the patina on one of your dials looks like exotic ostrich skin. People around here pay a lot for that look on their cowboy boots - maybe you need to spring for a pair.
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Old 19 June 2011, 04:08 PM   #12
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Thanks for bringing this up Lisa. I've been looking for a birth year (62) Constellation for a couple of months. I love the pie pans.
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Old 20 June 2011, 01:25 AM   #13
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Thanks for bringing this up Lisa. I've been looking for a birth year (62) Constellation for a couple of months. I love the pie pans.
Hope you find what you're looking for, Jeff. Why did you decide on getting a Constellation?
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Old 20 June 2011, 03:20 AM   #14
kyle L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lisa View Post
Thanks for the info! Would a guilloche dial also be described as a honeycomb dial?

Arrowhead markers - oooh... I want those. More of a '50s vintage than '60s, correct?

The pie pan with date function - very nice.

Are all-steel models harder to come by? I'm not entirely opposed to gold - especially rose gold.

Bumper movement - very interesting. Thanks for the picture. Makes me wonder if the watch would wobble on its own when laid on a countertop.

Kyle - the patina on one of your dials looks like exotic ostrich skin. People around here pay a lot for that look on their cowboy boots - maybe you need to spring for a pair.
I'm not sure if all-steel models are harder to come by, that's a question for Desmond.

Are you talking about this one?



I call it my leopard Constellation, but I think it was Desmond who said it looked like a teenager with severe acne.
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Old 20 June 2011, 03:46 AM   #15
Lisa
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I'm not sure if all-steel models are harder to come by, that's a question for Desmond.

Are you talking about this one?



I call it my leopard Constellation, but I think it was Desmond who said it looked like a teenager with severe acne.
That's the one. Why don't we call it the rare Ostrich Exotic?

And here are the boots (and matching belt!) to go with it:

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Old 20 June 2011, 04:36 AM   #16
kyle L
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That's the one. Why don't we call it the rare Ostrich Exotic?

And here are the boots (and matching belt!) to go with it:

Not sure if I could pull those off Lisa...
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Old 20 June 2011, 04:39 AM   #17
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Here's one!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC00063.JPG (144.6 KB, 242 views)
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Old 20 June 2011, 05:36 AM   #18
Lisa
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Here's one!
Is that yours? Beautiful! Does it have the Seamaster emblem on the back?
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Old 20 June 2011, 05:40 AM   #19
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Not sure if I could pull those off Lisa...
That's what bootjacks are for, Kyle.

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Old 20 June 2011, 06:11 AM   #20
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Stainless Steel Cal 501 Constellation Pie-Pan on Beads of Rice, the bracelet is like a Jubilee, only more comfortable and less prone to stretching, you have to get one.

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Old 20 June 2011, 06:15 AM   #21
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Hope you find what you're looking for, Jeff. Why did you decide on getting a Constellation?
For many of the same reasons you mentioned in your OP. The style is representative of the time period (IMHO) and the price point seems right. It reminds me of the watch my dad wore when I was really young although I'm sure is wasn't a Constellation.
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Old 20 June 2011, 07:02 AM   #22
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For many of the same reasons you mentioned in your OP. The style is representative of the time period (IMHO) and the price point seems right. It reminds me of the watch my dad wore when I was really young although I'm sure is wasn't a Constellation.
I get the impression from talking to some people that are original owners, that the Constellation was sort of seen as the blueprint for a high quality gentleman's dress watch in the 50s and 60s and ended up being copied by many (I have a 1960s "Credenda" brand watch that looks almost like a pie-pan clone) much in the same way that Rolex sports models became the most copied of their era.

BTW

I sort of look at the new Omega Hour-Vision as the spiritual successor to these beautiful classics. You look at the date window frame, the sleek soldered lugs, the dial markers and the dial itself, and you can see all of the elegance and class of the vintage Constellations, with a completely in-house Omega chronometer movement inside.

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Old 20 June 2011, 07:02 AM   #23
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Stainless Steel Cal 501 Constellation Pie-Pan on Beads of Rice, the bracelet is like a Jubilee, only more comfortable and less prone to stretching, you have to get one.

Okay - you've twisted my arm.

The bracelets are hard to come by, aren't they? For now I might settle for the head and look for a bracelet later.
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Old 20 June 2011, 07:08 AM   #24
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Okay - you've twisted my arm.

The bracelets are hard to come by, aren't they? For now I might settle for the head and look for a bracelet later.
Ah my dear, this is where the news gets even better! You can get Beads of Rice bracelets VERY easily, and cheaply. I paid $120 for mine NOS from a trusted dealer, but you can get them from Ofrei for about $240 brand new:

http://www.ofrei.com/page1280.html

I know Rolex bracelets cost $1000+ but this just isn't the case for these or most Omega's for that matter, even current model bracelets are available for around $600 (for a Planet Ocean).

The bracelets have so much flex to them, its like draping a gold chain or tenis bracelet around your wrist.
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Old 20 June 2011, 04:33 PM   #25
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Ashley, this is good news. The Beads of Rice bracelet sounds very comfortable. Is it easy to remove links?
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Old 20 June 2011, 04:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I get the impression from talking to some people that are original owners, that the Constellation was sort of seen as the blueprint for a high quality gentleman's dress watch in the 50s and 60s and ended up being copied by many (I have a 1960s "Credenda" brand watch that looks almost like a pie-pan clone) much in the same way that Rolex sports models became the most copied of their era.
That was my conclusion as well.
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Old 20 June 2011, 05:38 PM   #27
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Ashley, this is good news. The Beads of Rice bracelet sounds very comfortable. Is it easy to remove links?
If you've got a tool like the Burgeon 6111 its pretty easy, they use push-pins rather than screws, but they're not hard to get in and out, if you can knit, you can size a BOR. If necessary it should also be relatively easy for someone handy with some pliers to remove fixed links, but they do go pretty small, you might be fine.
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Old 20 June 2011, 08:47 PM   #28
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60s Constellations exude class like no other watch.



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Old 20 June 2011, 11:50 PM   #29
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That is a beauty, jwalther.

I have another question for you all: why is the observatory emblem on the case back sometimes steel, sometimes gold? Is the steel emblem used on the all-steel Constellations, and the gold emblem used on the all-gold or gold-capped ones?
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Old 20 June 2011, 11:52 PM   #30
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Dsio - your vintage Constellation looks like what I'm after: pie pan dial, steel, arrow markers, BOR bracelet (hope I'm using the terms correctly).

In a condition as good as yours, what might I expect to pay?
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